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Thread: VW trike hydraulic clutch problems

  1. #11
    20+ Posts Zar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeathBySnuSnu View Post
    Larry has a very valid point.

    I did just assumed you have your linkage and lever all sorted.

    So do you?

    Travel?

    Full retract/ push rod slack?
    Lever lengths?

    Full retract/ push rod slack?[/QUOTE]

    My pedals ( I built ) presses the M.C. all the way in, and lets it go back all the way... and I think are straight .

    IMG_5989 (1).jpg

  2. #12
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    Nothing wrong with that brand or style of master.

    Still by everything you say it still sounds like air. Things can be hard to bleed sometimes, especially if you are by yourself.

    So what I said about the master..... when first time building mine I worked the pedal so much and the master was too dry. I wore out the seal cup. It would not seal up and make pressure.

    Took the master apart and went to the local auto parts store and bought a 15 cent seal cup. Put it in and away I went.

  3. #13
    20+ Posts Zar's Avatar
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    Thanks- so if the M.C. was bad... I would see leaking.. Right ?

    -I bled the system with the help of my fried Troy, who is an experienced mechanic ( not to familiar with VWs ) and we used a vacuum type bleeder, and also did it the old school way, I also removed the slave cyl, from the tranny, and moved it around as we bled it.

    Question: so if there is air in there still, the pedal would be soft. ?

    But the pedal is firm all the way until it stops-

    - I'm going to try to bleed it again, and check for any leaking in the system.

  4. #14
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    Describe that some more.

    You push the pedal.

    The slack tightens up on the throw out.

    The slave stops moving.

    The pedal continues to move.

    Continues to move with some tension but no more movement from throw out.

  5. #15
    20+ Posts Zar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeathBySnuSnu View Post
    Describe that some more.

    You push the pedal.

    The slack tightens up on the throw out.

    The slave stops moving.

    The pedal continues to move.

    Continues to move with some tension but no more movement from throw out.
    I push the pedal.

    the slave cyl puls the throw arm until it touches the P.P fingers.

    the pedal also stops moving.

    if i adjust the slave, and take it all the way, till it hits the finger , the pedal and slave won't move.

    no mater how i adjust the slave... it will always go to the same point( the fingers)

    IMG_5990.JPGthe fIMG_5991.JPGirst pic is before pressing the pedal... if you can see the markings by the base of the throw arm .. the last dot is where it need to go, the dot before that, is where it touches the fingers ( all the slack out )
    Last edited by Zar; 08-29-2018 at 07:42 PM. Reason: QQQQQQQQQQQQQQQQQ

  6. #16
    300+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    your mc looks to be exactly the one I am using....with 3/4 mc and 7/8 pull slave I have enough travel, but very little extra, not good to overtravel a pressure plate anyhow.

    when you reach that point of contact , does the brake stop pedal rock hard, or does it slowly go to the floor?

    I'm wondering if the mc is bypassing on the cup, or if the mc is jammed up inside ,or missassaembled?

    I would take that mc apart and look....could even be wrong pushrod or piston length....then I would call willwood and ask them what parts and dimentions the parts should be. I'm sure they will be glad to help.....they have a reputation to protect.

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    Ok.

    We may be getting somewhere now.

    This is a whole different set of symptoms than first understood.

    Press the pedal.

    Pedal and slave move until contact/slack taken up.

    Slave stops.

    Pedal stops also.

    Pedal is solid and unmoving.

    Does NOT continue to move.

    Also from before. Clutch works with pry bar. Slave and master travels full stroke when not connected to throw out.

    Is this now the correct symtoms?

    If so then the mechanical ratio of your foot pedal is to low. Should be around 7 to 1.

    If it is ......say 2 to 1....it will take a whole lotta pressure on the pedal to work.

    If this is the correct list of symptoms then try pressing harder.

  8. #18
    20+ Posts Zar's Avatar
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    those are the correct symptoms... but pressing harder does nothing (did try )- I'm about to go to the garage and try to bleed

    it again... I just saw a video that might help me get air out, if there is any:



    if not, I'll have to take the MC out and do a good inspection. and also make sure that my pedal is doing the job it is suppose

    to do,,, as I said, I built it myself out of old timing gears,,,looks awesome, but looks aren't everything.



    Thank you guys for all the help. I will update after I do the bleeding.

    Just can't wait to ride this monster!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 7.jpg (109.8 KB, 33 views)

  9. #19
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    Let's work the numbers and see what we get.

    1) which pressure plate do you have?

    2) length of lever, hinge point to clevis?

    3) length of lever, hinges point to foot pad?

    4) we already have mc bore.

    5) we already have slave bore.

    6) and we have the stock throw out fork.

    20180830_070107.jpg

    Stock beetle.

    600lb plate

    Stock throw out

    Cable

    7 to 1 pedal.

    Equals 42 lbs of push on the pedal. Which is nothing for a leg to push.

    So now let's guess yours out.

    Super heavy duty "bus" pressure plate.

    Stock throw out.

    .857 ratio on hydraulic (.750/.875)

    Foot side of pedal 6 inches.

    Master cyl side of pedal 3 inches.

    Equals 257 pounds of push on the pedal.

  10. #20
    300+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    pedal ratio could very well be the problem, considering the seemingly normal hydraulic function.

    use a temporary lever on the clutch pedal to get 7/1 and give it a try.

    also, I would watch the strut for the slave that is standing out from the case, see if it deflects under load, if so it could contribute to lost motion.

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