VW trike hydraulic clutch problems

[Zar]

I try to bleed the system last night, by removing the Slave and putting it below the M.C . then pushing the and puling the push rod on the slave, forcing any possible air out the M.C. I got air out, but it just kept coming... little bubbles, then bigger ones... so I changed the fitting going in to the slave,( it looked suspicious to me) wit a banjo type fitting... bled it again, -and again, the bubbles kept coming.

so i suspect the M.C. may be letting air back in the system, I did not detect any leaking anywhere...I never took a M.C.apart, but it can't be to hard.... I'll do it this weekend.

-now the pedal may also be a problem, but it does let me push the M.C. rod all the way in and out ... with that said,I apologize for my ignorance... but, I don't really understand what 7 to 1 mean. so is my pedal to short? do you guys have any diagrams/drawings or photos of a good pedal build... I would re build my pedals if necessary, but before I do that, i would like to have a good understanding of it .

I will attach some pics and a drawing of my pedal assembly.

thank you for all the help !!

[Zar]

[Zar]

Ahh... I'm kind of slow some times... so my pedals are definitely too short- with this set up they should be some 18"plus long, not just 4-1/4"... I will rebuild the pedals, and I have a good idea for it... I will post drawings before i build em. and you guys may be able to give me some pointers. I really appreciate you guys!

thanks

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Same thing for your brakes also.

[LarryA]

like them pedals.....I would keep the look as much as possible....just get the pedal arc length to be 7x longer than the arc of the arm that actuates the m/c.

you will have to get the m/c arm to travel full stroke, then get the pedal to travel 7 times farther....if your sprockets that your foot pushes on do rotate, so much the better. this takes some room because your heel and toes have to clear all obstructions. If your clutch is light and your legs are strong, and your leg angle is kind of straight maybe you could go with a somewhat less ratio.

when I started building leg room was no problem then added seat upholstry, then clutch and brake pedal and their needed travel, things started getting snug LOL....

[Zar]

Thanks, i also like the look of this pedals... I got some Ideas that would make em stronger and smoother, and will still have a similar look.

I think I'm gonna re build the pedals before I get in to the M.C. diagnosis.

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Mine is 6 to1. It is very short and stiff stiff. Especially since I went to a 1700 lb pressure plate.

I have seen up to 10 to 1 used. Makes for an easy pedal, but it has to travel a long way.

That is what the dealio is with my scooter. I am in a position I can not move my whole leg like a car. Mine is more of a roll at the ankle like a motorcycle action.

[Zar]

do you have pictures of it ?

what's the advantage of a heavy Pressure Plate over a light one? is it longevity,

at the time I got mine, I didn't know there were different weights.. it came as a kit with my flywheel

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Hey....

I went and saw your album.

Way cool you put the time into starting one.

So you have a type 4 on a type 1 IRS then.

Good engine.

Which flywheel did you use? There are a few rare models that fit, but most type 4 flywheels are thicker and stick into the bell housing too far.

Also the transmission shaft usually has to be shortened at the tip end because they bottom out in the hole of a type 4 crank.

So you probably have a 1200lb pressure plate and will need all the lever ratio you can get.

[DeathBySnuSnu]

If you have a 200mm clutch flywheel then there are a lot of choices in weight and it all depends on the amount of hp you are trying to hook up.

My clutch is mechanical linkage, but the ratio calculates the same. My stuff is completely backwards with pedal, lever, link, lever, bell crank, lever, link, lever.

[Zar]

it's a 200mm flywheel... I do like the engine a lot, i guess it's a porsche... it's 1700 cc. when I got it, it was covered on dirt.. all the fins were solid with mud and some smuck paited it right over everything... even some in the inside... it took a lot of love to get it back in working condition- now it look really nice, and also runs well... I still need to sink the cabs, but no use if I can't get in to gear... should I consider a lighter pressure plate? _ I mean... the hydraulic system should be able to operate the heavy one. Right?

[DeathBySnuSnu]

The type 4 was also used in the Porsche. Typically a 2000 with bigger valve heads.

The 1700 was the vw bus engine. It dont make a whole lot more hp in stock form, like 68hp versus the type 1 53hp. But does make more torque. It feels a lot lot bigger than a stock type 1. There just ain't as much hot rod stuff for them and what there is will be a whole lot more expensive.

So whatcha do inide the engine? Stock stroke? Big cam? Heads in good condition?

In a light trike with less than 100hp (at crank) a stock 800lb would be enough.

I ran a 1200lb bus clutch with a 150hp (at crank) engine for years, no problem.

I currently run a 1700lb and a 225 (at crank) engine and it holds.

If it was in a full body car you would need more clutch in each instance.

[LarryA]

Sorry, subject change....looked at your album too.... good looking trike ....curious, front fender ornament.....56 chevy hood?

[Zar]

Sorry, subject change....looked at your album too.... good looking trike ....curious, front fender ornament.....56 chevy hood?

thanks-

1954 Pontiac Chief , I had to bend it a bit to get it to fit my fender... ones I get it running, I'm gonna powder coat the fender and clear coat the ornament

[Zar]

The type 4 was also used in the Porsche. Typically a 2000 with bigger valve heads.

The 1700 was the vw bus engine. It dont make a whole lot more hp in stock form, like 68hp versus the type 1 53hp. But does make more torque. It feels a lot lot bigger than a stock type 1. There just ain't as much hot rod stuff for them and what there is will be a whole lot more expensive.

So whatcha do inide the engine? Stock stroke? Big cam? Heads in good condition?

In a light trike with less than 100hp (at crank) a stock 800lb would be enough.

I ran a 1200lb bus clutch with a 150hp (at crank) engine for years, no problem.

I currently run a 1700lb and a 225 (at crank) engine and it holds.

If it was in a full body car you would need more clutch in each instance.

so maybe it's 2000cc... , everything is all stock... ones I get the pedals and clutch all de-bugged, I might change the pressure plate if it feels to stiff... and you right, there isn't as much hot rod stuff for this engines, and some times I find it hard to get normal parts for it even...

[DeathBySnuSnu]

If it is the 2L Porsche engine then put the jetronic fuel injection back on it. Those were close to 100hp engines.

The Porsche 914 did come with the smaller engines in Europe. It was also sold under the VW name instead of Porsche.

The US import busses at one point or the other came with all three sizes, 1700, 1800, 2000. They did not have the same ports/valves in the heads, or the more performance oriented fuel injection.

All were very good engines though. They feel like the difference between a small block and a big block. If the heads are in good shape you will like it a lot.

I keep saying heads because most of these you find came from a bus. The bus is hard on it, heavy, loaded, and ran hard. The first thing to wear out is the heads.

If it came from a 411, 412, 912, 914, then it has had a much easier life.

[Zar]

It did't have anything on it when I got it... including the fuel injection system, distributor or any wires at all, so I put dual carbs on it and, the wort part was that it did not have a mechanical fuel pump or a port to install one. and I don't think it was in a bus, but I think that if it could tell it's story, it would be a best seller-

came up with a good pedal solution ( I hope ) and they are gonna be more solid and will have no play, and will be using the original pedal parts, just have to replace the levers. hope to have them done by the end of tomorrow.

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Post up the number by the case vent stand and let's see if we can identify it.

Of course you can mix and match stuff, but typically the type 4 stuff ain't done that way. They just did not wear out and get patchwork back together like the type 1 did.

What cooling are you going to use? The stock pancake housing or convert to upright?

[Zar]

Code number EA015562

[Zar]

I'm using the original shroud. and I don't have must of the tins, and they are hard to get. I'm counting on the open air flow, will work much like a motorcycle engine cooling system. and if I find that it runs too hot, I'll have to get one of those fancy 911 fan shrouds...