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Thread: VW trike hydraulic clutch problems

  1. #21
    20+ Posts Zar's Avatar
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    I try to bleed the system last night, by removing the Slave and putting it below the M.C . then pushing the and puling the push rod on the slave, forcing any possible air out the M.C. I got air out, but it just kept coming... little bubbles, then bigger ones... so I changed the fitting going in to the slave,( it looked suspicious to me) wit a banjo type fitting... bled it again, -and again, the bubbles kept coming.

    so i suspect the M.C. may be letting air back in the system, I did not detect any leaking anywhere...I never took a M.C.apart, but it can't be to hard.... I'll do it this weekend.

    -now the pedal may also be a problem, but it does let me push the M.C. rod all the way in and out ... with that said,I apologize for my ignorance... but, I don't really understand what 7 to 1 mean. so is my pedal to short? do you guys have any diagrams/drawings or photos of a good pedal build... I would re build my pedals if necessary, but before I do that, i would like to have a good understanding of it .

    I will attach some pics and a drawing of my pedal assembly.

    thank you for all the help !!

  2. #22
    20+ Posts Zar's Avatar
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  3. #23
    20+ Posts Zar's Avatar
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    Ahh... I'm kind of slow some times... so my pedals are definitely too short- with this set up they should be some 18"plus long, not just 4-1/4"... I will rebuild the pedals, and I have a good idea for it... I will post drawings before i build em. and you guys may be able to give me some pointers. I really appreciate you guys!

    thanks

  4. #24
    Old Redneck Motorhead
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    Same thing for your brakes also.

  5. #25
    300+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    like them pedals.....I would keep the look as much as possible....just get the pedal arc length to be 7x longer than the arc of the arm that actuates the m/c.

    you will have to get the m/c arm to travel full stroke, then get the pedal to travel 7 times farther....if your sprockets that your foot pushes on do rotate, so much the better. this takes some room because your heel and toes have to clear all obstructions. If your clutch is light and your legs are strong, and your leg angle is kind of straight maybe you could go with a somewhat less ratio.

    when I started building leg room was no problem then added seat upholstry, then clutch and brake pedal and their needed travel, things started getting snug LOL....

  6. #26
    20+ Posts Zar's Avatar
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    Thanks, i also like the look of this pedals... I got some Ideas that would make em stronger and smoother, and will still have a similar look.

    I think I'm gonna re build the pedals before I get in to the M.C. diagnosis.

  7. #27
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    Mine is 6 to1. It is very short and stiff stiff. Especially since I went to a 1700 lb pressure plate.

    I have seen up to 10 to 1 used. Makes for an easy pedal, but it has to travel a long way.

    That is what the dealio is with my scooter. I am in a position I can not move my whole leg like a car. Mine is more of a roll at the ankle like a motorcycle action.

  8. #28
    20+ Posts Zar's Avatar
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    do you have pictures of it ?

    what's the advantage of a heavy Pressure Plate over a light one? is it longevity,

    at the time I got mine, I didn't know there were different weights.. it came as a kit with my flywheel

  9. #29
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    Hey....

    I went and saw your album.

    Way cool you put the time into starting one.

    So you have a type 4 on a type 1 IRS then.

    Good engine.

    Which flywheel did you use? There are a few rare models that fit, but most type 4 flywheels are thicker and stick into the bell housing too far.

    Also the transmission shaft usually has to be shortened at the tip end because they bottom out in the hole of a type 4 crank.

    So you probably have a 1200lb pressure plate and will need all the lever ratio you can get.

  10. #30
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    If you have a 200mm clutch flywheel then there are a lot of choices in weight and it all depends on the amount of hp you are trying to hook up.

    My clutch is mechanical linkage, but the ratio calculates the same. My stuff is completely backwards with pedal, lever, link, lever, bell crank, lever, link, lever.

    15072423891663.jpg

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