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Thread: 2001 GW Lehman Driveshaft removel.

  1. #11
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    Default Seems to be a unmolested Monarch 1

    Quote Originally Posted by Lee H. Mann View Post
    Scott,

    Over the years, past owners have substituted parts on their trikes that were not authorized or approved by the original manufacturer. In many cases out of necessity, but in most cases they were being thrifty.

    If you have a 'stock and unmolested' Lehman Trike conversion on your GL1800 Goldwing that was built before August 2004, you have a Monarch I with drum brakes.

    If you have a 'stock and unmolested' Lehman Trike conversion on your GL1800 Goldwing that was built AFTER August 2004, you more than likely have a Monarch II with DISC brakes.

    The Monarch I had 2 different style driveshafts and the later model Monarch I had a specific Lehman driveshaft that is not produced anymore. The earlier style driveshaft can and is being used as a replacement for the later with slight modification to the swingarm tube.

    Why did Lehman do this ??????? I don't know !!!!!

    The front yoke of the Monarch I is essentially a Valkyrie front yoke.

    https://mjtrikes.com/shop/index.php?...bc99dab412795f

    The front yoke is a slip design and uses no fasteners or clamps to hold it on the output shaft of the transmission and sometimes the front yoke will become stuck on the output shaft of the transmission, accessing it from the engine RT side panel behind the mastercylinder, with a long punch you should be able to dislodge it. Reaching into the driveshaft tube of the swingarm, you should be able to remove it.

    Once removed, the driveshaft must be pre-assembled (properly phased) before installation, period.



    The front yoke of a Monarch II (until 2012) is the OEM GL1800 driveshaft. If you are unable to remove the front shaft from a Monarch II, the same method should apply.
    Thank you Jim. It would seem to be the Monarch 1 with the drum brakes. Hope one day to replace the drums with Disc's.

    From what I see of the picture it's not bolted? Merely slips on and the spring keeps the coupling forward. This may be the first time I've not cussed the engineers. Also, would it be a good idea to use anti-seize compound on the splines instead of bearing grease?

    Your a great help and I'm sure to be calling your shop for parts later.

  2. #12
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    Default Thank you.

    Quote Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
    LHM .... They sure is pretty!

    Is the one no longer made the one with the splined shaft that fits into splined hole of rear yoke? Just curious. I carry the welded (cut off oem drive shaft, fitted / welded into rear yoke) set up as a spare now.

    https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...e-else-somehow
    Thank you.

  3. #13
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tang62 View Post
    Thank you Jim. It would seem to be the Monarch 1 with the drum brakes. Hope one day to replace the drums with Disc's.
    Why? Those drums will stay dry in heaviest rain & splashes, unless you ford creeks, rice patties, rivers, and such. I adjust mine up each Spring and that is good all season. Dependable stopping, no surprises. Shoes also last and last.....

    Quote Originally Posted by Tang62 View Post
    From what I see of the picture it's not bolted? Merely slips on and the spring keeps the coupling forward. This may be the first time I've not cussed the engineers. Also, would it be a good idea to use anti-seize compound on the splines instead of bearing grease?
    Works well, I agree …

    ... and I just smear inside of front yoke with what I use on splines of my '85 …

    … ie: Valvoline HD Ford Spec WB Grease fortified with Moly, VV-632 gets a 1lb can. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...v632/7070007-P

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee H. Mann View Post
    Actually, The only one still made is the one that is zip-tied. The splined (both ends) shafts disappeared in 2012 and the special made front yoke (made from a GL1800 driveshaft) was never sent to dealers as a replacement. We always used a Valkyrie yoke and still do as a replacement.
    I wonder which was stronger the splined or welded shaft / rear yoke?

    I'm not sure where that 1800 based joint originated, it was just in the box.

  5. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
    I wonder which was stronger the splined or welded shaft / rear yoke?

    I'm not sure where that 1800 based joint originated, it was just in the box.
    During the first run of the Monarch I Lehman asked the dealers to return the original GL1800 propeller shaft to the Factory as a core.

    Lehman would then modify the original GL1800 propeller shaft to make their own front U-joint.

    I think that the expense of the new u-joint from Honda "Canada" was the driving force behind that move.
    Jim Murphy
    Lehman Tech since 1998
    Champion Tech since 2005
    Lehman & Champion Dealer Owner Operator
    Iron Butt Rider 2001

    WHEN HELP IS OFFERED, A SIMPLE "THANK YOU" IS APPRECIATED.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee H. Mann View Post
    During the first run of the Monarch I Lehman asked the dealers to return the original GL1800 propeller shaft to the Factory as a core.

    Lehman would then modify the original GL1800 propeller shaft to make their own front U-joint.

    I think that the expense of the new u-joint from Honda "Canada" was the driving force behind that move.
    Thank you, that made huge sense.

    Thought I lost it, but I found it again in another box. It fits a 1500 drive shaft well. It'll make a good spare, it's good'n'tight, not woreout'n'floppy.

    Looking at it closer, the splines in driveshaft end are "flush" machined to the very end, those in the front are recessed as it's a stock yoke. Overall length is a hair longer that a GL1500 joint, but then it's intended for a 1800.
    Make Courtesy Your "Code of the Road" too!

  7. #17
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    Default

    Picture to go with my post above.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Make Courtesy Your "Code of the Road" too!

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