Bleeding the brake/clutch lines to replace the DOT 4 brake fluid.

[MDO]

I plan on doing the brake/clutch fluid flush this fall.

I ordered an in-line check valve Monday to assist in bleeding the lines.

UPDATE: I received the check valve & tubing today.

I will let everyone know how the process goes & how the fluid looks.

[MDO]

Here is an update:

I found a nice 16 oz. plastic bottle & weighted the bottom & marked the outside with a line every 2 oz. so I could have an estimate of how much fluid I have flushed. Most bikes seem to need about 3-4 oz. for a good flush per master cylinder.

I drilled a hole it the top, slightly smaller than the tubing O.D. for a snug fit. Because of the in-line check valve, it does not have to go to the bottom or stay in fluid. I then cut a wire coat hanger to make a hook to hang it if needed.

I know what your thinking & yes, I run a high tech operation.

I have a 2005 Honda 1100 Sabre I'm fixing up to sell & it was the sacrificial test lamb to see how well this high tech bleeder system worked. It was good to use it, as the rear brake fluid looked like used 10w30 motor oil.

This bike uses DOT3 fluid & I have a quart to do my SUV, so I filled up a couple 3oz small bottles to simplify the procedure & it was an easy job to flush the rear disk system & I'm now an expert.

I will do the front later. The bottom line, IMO, is the check valve is well worth the $8. Not having to worry about air getting sucked back into the system simplifies the process.

[Jack Klarich]

Good job

[MDO]

I did want to mention, the brakes (single disk, front & rear) on my Honda Sabre always seemed ok to me, as I never knew the importance of flushing the brake fluid.

Besides looking bad, this fluid had a lot of air bubbles in it, probably due to the moisture.

I flushed it till the bubbles were gone.

[Jack Klarich]

I did want to mention, the brakes (single disk, front & rear) on my Honda Sabre always seemed ok to me, as I never knew the importance of flushing the brake fluid.

Besides looking bad, this fluid had a lot of air bubbles in it, probably due to the moisture.

I flushed it till the bubbles were gone.

I bet your brakes work better now you are not trying to compress those air bubbles

[MDO]

I bet your brakes work better now you are not trying to compress those air bubbles

Thanks Jack. I hope the new owner appreciates my efforts. I am using these funds to buy a Boardtracker ESP & pay for another year of insurance. Or I could get a custom paint job.

[Jack Klarich]

Thanks Jack. I hope the new owner appreciates my efforts. I am using these funds to buy a Boardtracker ESP & pay for another year of insurance. Or I could get a custom paint job.

Light Charcoal ghost flames would look pretty cool on your Freewheeler

[MDO]

I completed flushing the front brake on my Sabre 1100 & the front did not have the air bubbles the rear had. It took about 5oz. all total front & rear. It's a very simple process to master & considering how much a dealer charges, I'm sure glad I did.

I'm using a brake fluid that meets the requirements for DOT 3 & 4. In my research, I found fluids that are labeled DOT 3, but have a dry boil point that puts them in the DOT 5.1 category. Brake fluid is highly regulated.