Stallion Info

[Gorilla]

I guess my taping up of the switch was a good idea. It's been good for 8 months that way. Be interesting to see the factory final fix.

[Markie]

Well...Momma let me play with the Stallion this morning to go to work. Noticed along the drive that the cruise control would not engage. I also noticed that, on my previous ride to work w/ the Stallion last week the cruise would disengage when I rode over train tracks.

Not having the manual at hand is the cruise control controlled by a fuse, or perhaps a relay that could be checked? Anyone else have this issue, or is it time for me to bite the bullet & let the Ford folks troubleshoot?

[Road Runner]

Cruise not engaging is probably the brake light switch. Call Nick at TBMS on that. Mine also disengages cruise on rough tracks, probably the nature of the beast with the slop and tolerance built in. My guess is the brake petal is self depressing on the bump. Ask Nick about that too.

[deb54]

Markle, I have not had a problem so far with the cruise, but have not used it much and it was on interstate. Have you disconnected your brake pedal adjustment cable? (the one that makes it come closer and farther from you) Maybe having it connected it cause it, just a thought.

[silverdevil]

I have #538 which is an 09.
my cruise switch has gone out 5 times, the only good thing is that I live a little over 100 miles from TMS and have been allowed to visit them several times.
1st one went out at about 1000 miles
2nd one went out at about 2000 miles
3rd one went out at about 3000 miles
4th one went out at about 9000 miles, on trip up to Alaska so the trip back was without cruise.
the 5th one has been in for a little over 1500 miles, I am now just shy of 14,000 miles.
the first 2 were just replaced, the 3rd one was coated with a rubber spray and lasted 6000 miles, the last one a little metal box was formed and put around it, so far ok.
the battery is located just to the right of the left rear tire, the master cylinder is located just to the right of the battery. the cruise switch is a blue\white plastic switch which is mounted below the top of the frame which puts it about 4 to 5 inches off of the ground and it is not dust or water protected and that is why the first 3 went out. the rubber spray saved the 4th one for a while, the box may do better but the switch needs to be totally weather protected to last.

[CAS]

So is the cruise switch actually the brake light switch?

[Gorilla]

It is unless they changed something. The brake switch does the brake lights the cruise and the gear selector lock out.

[Markie]

Well...my cruise control problem turned out to be the "Redundant Cruise Switch" fuse (Fuse #26, 2A). It's funny though: after I replaced the fuse and took the Stallion out for a test ride the cruise control would not pick up when the "SET" button was pressed, but would pick up when the "CST" (coast) button was pressed. The SET button did, however, allow for incremental speed increase when pressed. Once it was determined that the SET button did, in fact, work subsequent presses of the SET button engaged the cruise control (along with the CST button...still can't figure that one out!)

[CAS]

Thanks for the info.

My brake lights went out today, #530, and I have never been in the rain with this unit. I was told that I had the first fix with the under rated switch and I guess it finally failed. I can engage the cruise, but it will not cancel with the brake. I can get out of park, but I have to push the brake pedel all the way down to release the shift lever.

TM still does not have the fix in but they said today that it will be done in 3 weeks. It will require splicing in a new electrical cable. I was also told that the switch is mechanically actuated by the master brake cylinder movement through a linkage.

Even from the start, I had to press all the way down on the brake pedal to actuate the brake lights when I feel the brake lights should come on then you lightly press the brake.

I have an appointment with Daytona TM next Saturday. They apparently have a fix with a waterproof switch that has been working to date well.

[silverdevil]

on mine, #538 an 09', the brake light switch and the cruise switch are 2 different switches. with 4 bad cruise switches I have NEVER had a brake light problem, only cruise would not work.

the first 3 cruise switches went out due to dust/dirt, I live on a dirt road and have one mile of dirt road to go on till I get to pavement. so every time I left the house I was on at least 2 miles of dirt road by the time I got back home, no rain or wet roads.

[WildBillH]

Would a Hydraulic Brake light Switch resolve part of the problem with the elements causing the switch to go bad?

Switch $9
Tee for hydraulic Brake switch $4

[CAS]

It would make a lot of sence to me to use a pressure switch.

I raised my #530 today and looked at the brake switch. Wow, not well designed. I have one that is blue and white and works off the brake linkage and a paddle. The switch is compressed and in the off position until you push the pedal and then the paddle opens the gap and allows the switch to push out and actuate the three circuits. The center plunger on the switch does not even line up correctly with the paddle and when operated, the entire switch moves front to back, i.e. not mounted firm in the bracket (bracket held on with two screws to the frame).

The electrical connection and cable plug-in, which faces forward, opposite the plunger, presses directly onto the frame. It would appear to me that it is being crushed because it does not look like a 90 degree connector.

The electrical leads or wires look like they are not watertight, no rubber boot, in the plug and the wires are no bigger than 22 to 24 GA, very small. I can not understand the factories comments concerning the current issues with the interim switch that I was suppose to have. I would almost believe that I have the original switch because the body of mine certainly does not appear to be watertight. I did not remove the switch and look inside for grease. There does appear to be a slight red substance around the frame in this area but I did not inspect for grease.

I guess I can see why the new mod will be spliced into the existing cable and replace the electrical connector on the switch.

[WildBillH]

Does anyone see a reason why a hydraulic Brake light Switch would not work and remove the mechanical one. Has anyone tried it?

[CAS]

TM has told me that the blue and white switch that I located is the cruise control cancel switch and not be brake switch. What a bad design idea when the brake switch could have done the same thing through a relay or a computer control device.

The brake switch is outboard the cruise switch, is square, black and apparently comes directly off the brake booster?? I will crawl under today and see. I also found out that the intermediate brake fix switch had the switch body bolted together and not snapped.

[CAS]

I looked back under my Stallion and finally found the brake switch. It is black/rectangular and I do have the second gereration switch because it appears to be watertight and has nuts and bolts holding it together. It is outboard the cruise switch and slightly higher and more to the rear.

The factory informed me that it is under rated and the contacts can not handle the current or arc.

Does anyone know the NAPA part number of a suitable substitute?

[CAS]

TM has just sent the latest replacement switch to my dealer and I will be the first candidate for the replacement tomorrow morning.

I previously had the interim waterproof switch that failed (about 10 to 30 trikes) due to arcing/current with the cable spliced for the new o-ringed connector so I just need the switch not the cable replacement because they used an upgrade to the interim switch by silver plating the contacts, so I am told.

The majority of the trikes will therefore need the cable connector spliced in to the existing cable for the new switch. I will post as much info as possable after tomorrow to detail the new switch number and manufacturer.

I do know that my current interim failed switch is bolted together by about 6 nuts and bolts. I would assume that the new one is also.

[CAS]

I just got back home from the dealer and the brake switch install. It went just as planned. All he had to do was remove the old first generation waterproof switch and install the new one that TM sent him yesterday.
I did not get to see the new unit, but I believe it is the same outside as my old one. If I get under my unit, I will do a visual and report if it looks different from the outside.

He also took out some caliper spacers from the right rear due to grinding noises that I was having when making a right turn.

Let's see if any of this works this time.

[Road Runner]

My cruise control failed last week on a 10 day ride to Arkansas. Brake lights work, comes out of park, just no cruise. #533 is now at Ford dealer to repair the cruise. Will report back on the parts needed, later on.

[CAS]

Per my previous post on the cruise control, there is a blue and white switch toward the inside of the break linkage that is suppose to disengage the cruise control, similar to the third wafer of the break light switch. This switch is not watertight and the connector plug presses directly against the frame every time the brakes are applied. I would look there first then test the break light contact for the cruise.

[silverdevil]

cruise switch #5 has now gone out on #538, it was picked up late April and 6 months later I have gone thru 5 cruise switches. location, location, location, bad location for this switch which is not weather protected in any shape or form.
#4 was rubber coated and lasted 6,000 miles, by far the longest.
#5 when installed has a tin box installed around it yet it still only lasted little over 1,000 miles.
I am suppose to show up at TMS tomorrow but it is a 50/50 chance for rain so it may be later in the week before I get there.