Stallion Info

[Monkei]

I am looking at purchasing a new Stallion in the coming months ... I have been following this thread and there has not been anything posted to it since April 2009 ... I don't know if that is a good sign? I was wondering if they are still out there and should my dealer look at these or have they no longer issues?

1. Have all these brake switch issues been fixed?
2. Have the wobbling and vibration issues been fixed?
3. The Cruise Control ... seems it was related to the brake switch, is that still an issue?
4. The hood latch issue, has that been resolved?

Are there any other issues ongoing?

Thanks!

[CAS]

I am looking at purchasing a new Stallion in the coming months ... I have been following this thread and there has not been anything posted to it since April 2009 ... I don't know if that is a good sign? I was wondering if they are still out there and should my dealer look at these or have they no longer issues?

1. Have all these brake switch issues been fixed?
2. Have the wobbling and vibration issues been fixed?
3. The Cruise Control ... seems it was related to the brake switch, is that still an issue?
4. The hood latch issue, has that been resolved?

Are there any other issues ongoing?


Thanks!

1. I was one of the first to get the latest brake switch mod and it appears to be working correctly at this time.

2. I have #530 and I did not have any wobble.

3. My cruise switch is not watertight and I have not driven in the rain. I believe it should be watertight. My brake light switch did effect the cancelling of the cruise when it failed.

4. Hood latch? Vibration of the hood is an issue and it was suppose to be resolved by adding a two socket and pin assemblies like the original units. I have not been informed by the factory of any mods that are ready. You just have to call the factory and ask to get the latest accurate info.

Yes, refer to all the posts.

[TangleEyes]

Blackburns trikes in Ohio had to get a new proportioning valve assembly from Texas. They picked up my trike with a trailer and fixed it the next day. The old assembly was aluminum and new one looks like it is bronze.

Wayne had to replace my Proportioning Valve today. He told me that the only issues with these valves that he had is that the ones that were leaking were all made of aluminum and the replacements are brass. Also said he has yet to repair a brass one. No leaks reported.

[Gorilla]

Moniker, I do not know what thread you are looking at but this thread has had constant posting to it after April.

As Cas stated the fix is in for the brake switch. I have seen the switch and it should do the job. The factory is getting them out as I am writing this according to their dealer in Daytona.

The cruise has mostly been a problem associated with this same brake switch. Cas referred to a separate cruise switch but I have not read very many issues with it.

The wobble was mostly in the first production units caused by wheel bearings not holding up. These bearing have been upgraded.

The hood is an issue on the newer 09's with the injection molded body. The mechanism for the hood was changed because the new body has a lighter hood and now there is a complaint that the hood vibrates. This is not a safety issue just a visual irritation and the factory is looking at a resolution.

TBMS is very good about taking care of any issues that come up. The customer service is great. You can call the factory and talk to an engineer if you need to. I called on a cell phone from Needles Hwy and was talked thru a repair to get me going and down off the mountain to get a permanent repair. Buy with confidence that your issues will be addressed until they are resolved. I'm not saying that you will have problems, you probably will not, but if you do TBMS will fix them. As you have read there has not been any other real complaints about one issue. My wife had 15k on her first Stallion a very early production unit and traded it in on a newer one and has 5k on it. The first one developed some electrical issues that we did not want to live with.

[Road Runner]

Solved ALL my Stallion problems yesterday. Traded it for 09 Goldwing Champion IRS conversion.
And guys, thanks for all the helpful hints the past 7 months.

Now there is a used 09 Stallion for sale at H & W Honda in Marshall, Tx

[ben721364]

Thanks for a post that should assure most. I have heard essentially the same from other Stallion owners. As with any clean sheet piece of equipment thre are growing pains but it appears that TBMS is committed to satisfying it's customers. BTW. I don't own a Stallion but I might some day.

Moniker, I do not know what thread you are looking at but this thread has had constant posting to it after April.

As Cas stated the fix is in for the brake switch. I have seen the switch and it should do the job. The factory is getting them out as I am writing this according to their dealer in Daytona.

The cruise has mostly been a problem associated with this same brake switch. Cas referred to a separate cruise switch but I have not read very many issues with it.

The wobble was mostly in the first production units caused by wheel bearings not holding up. These bearing have been upgraded.

The hood is an issue on the newer 09's with the injection molded body. The mechanism for the hood was changed because the new body has a lighter hood and now there is a complaint that the hood vibrates. This is not a safety issue just a visual irritation and the factory is looking at a resolution.

TBMS is very good about taking care of any issues that come up. The customer service is great. You can call the factory and talk to an engineer if you need to. I called on a cell phone from Needles Hwy and was talked thru a repair to get me going and down off the mountain to get a permanent repair. Buy with confidence that your issues will be addressed until they are resolved. I'm not saying that you will have problems, you probably will not, but if you do TBMS will fix them. As you have read there has not been any other real complaints about one issue. My wife had 15k on her first Stallion a very early production unit and traded it in on a newer one and has 5k on it. The first one developed some electrical issues that we did not want to live with.

[tomg]

I have the first blue #526. Did have brake switch problem, but corrected with another switch.

The fog light has to be unbolted from the top and the light itself is a plug & play no splicing needed. Mine was covered under warranty.

The hood has two bolts on each side holding it to the hinges. When loosened, one side at a time, have someone apply slight pressure to the rear of the hood and retighten the bolts and do the other side. This will bring the back down onto the adjustment pins in the rear and stop the shaking. Just make sure the gap is even between the hood and body.

Have 9k on it now and did a 7 state, 3000+ mile trip last Oct with only problem being the horn started blowing after we parked it, but just finished 400 miles in blowing rain. Pulled the fuse and reinstalled it when things were dry.

Will be riding it to the Texas rally next month and Maggie Valley in June.

Tomg

[ben721364]

I have the first blue #526. Did have brake switch problem, but corrected with another switch.

The fog light has to be unbolted from the top and the light itself is a plug & play no splicing needed. Mine was covered under warranty.

The hood has two bolts on each side holding it to the hinges. When loosened, one side at a time, have someone apply slight pressure to the rear of the hood and retighten the bolts and do the other side. This will bring the back down onto the adjustment pins in the rear and stop the shaking. Just make sure the gap is even between the hood and body.

Have 9k on it now and did a 7 state, 3000+ mile trip last Oct with only problem being the horn started blowing after we parked it, but just finished 400 miles in blowing rain. Pulled the fuse and reinstalled it when things were dry.

Will be riding it to the Texas rally next month and Maggie Valley in June.

Tomg

I'm looking forward to seeing you in Kerrville next month and am sorry that I will not be able to be in Maggie Valley. Early registrations for both events are strong and participants at both will have a great time. Are there others who plan to attend both rallies?

[tomg]

We are looking forward to the trip and the new air dams should be here next week so we will have a real good feeling on how they work by then.
Tomg

[ben721364]

We are looking forward to the trip and the new air dams should be here next week so we will have a real good feeling on how they work by then.
Tomg

In the Hill Country in April you may need your heater, your A/C, and your rain gear, all in the same day. Regardless, you will enjoy yourselves and meet some great folks, including a few legendary characters.

[rudedogg]

'hi everyone.....since it doesn't seem that we'll be getting the hood shake fix anytime soon, I wanted to tell you what I did to almost eliminate the shaking. I used a clear car door guard (purchased at any auto parts store.)I place the guard on both the edge of the hood and along the top of the dash and it gave the hood a tighter fit. Hopes this helps.:yes:

[Mattel]

'hi everyone.....since it doesn't seem that we'll be getting the hood shake fix anytime soon, I wanted to tell you what I did to almost eliminate the shaking. I used a clear car door guard (purchased at any auto parts store.)I place the guard on both the edge of the hood and along the top of the dash and it gave the hood a tighter fit. Hopes this helps.:yes:

Do you have an older fiberglass Stallion or a new one? If it is an older one you may need your front bearings replaced. That should cure your hood shake.

[rudedogg]

2009, #581.....also had a some problem with the on board compressor...Spoke with Nick and he sent me out a check valve and holds the appropriate air for hours.....:yes:

[tomg]

'hi everyone.....since it doesn't seem that we'll be getting the hood shake fix anytime soon, I wanted to tell you what I did to almost eliminate the shaking. I used a clear car door guard (purchased at any auto parts store.)I place the guard on both the edge of the hood and along the top of the dash and it gave the hood a tighter fit. Hopes this helps.:yes:

check the gap between the hood and the body. If you have a gap at the back you can put your finger in, then look at the two bolts that hold the hood to the hinge. Loosen each side one at a time and apply slight presure to the back of the hood and that should, close the gap, allow the hood to rest on the rubber screw stops and stop the shaking. It did for mine anyway.
Tomg

[ed norris]

Has anyone used the trike cover from cool custom trikes ?if so is it a rain cover and does it fit well?

[Gorilla]

Welcome aboard Ed. I have the factory cover.

[ed norris]

How large or small is the factory cover when it is in the bag? Is there room to put it in the trunk plus some travel bags?

[IMP]

The stallion factory cover when in bag fits very nicely in trunk with lots of room for other bags or stuff IMP

[CAS]

Has anyone used the trike cover from cool custom trikes ?if so is it a rain cover and does it fit well?

I am on my second factory cover, the first one was not waterproof and neither was the second. The manufacturer coated the second one, but it was not a good job. I recoated it with a special nylon tent sealant and it is pretty good now.

[CAS]

'hi everyone.....since it doesn't seem that we'll be getting the hood shake fix anytime soon, I wanted to tell you what I did to almost eliminate the shaking. I used a clear car door guard (purchased at any auto parts store.)I place the guard on both the edge of the hood and along the top of the dash and it gave the hood a tighter fit. Hopes this helps.:yes:

That's a great idea, my hood is starting to wear into the dash and this would also stop that.