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Thread: need 12 volt switched supply

  1. #1
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    Default need 12 volt switched supply

    I am adding a power port to my tour pac and need a switched power supply. Where is the best place to get this power? (2017 GW )

    Thanks, Jackie

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    1000+ Posts mhgoldwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfred View Post
    I am adding a power port to my tour pac and need a switched power supply. Where is the best place to get this power? (2017 GW )

    Thanks, Jackie
    Your profile indicates you have a Triglide. If this is correct I would repost your question to one of the Harley forums since the 12 switched power will come from the bike portion.

    Checkout Electrical Connections as they have several products that may do the job for you.
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    Traded my HD for a GW Roadsmith

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    1000+ Posts mhgoldwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfred View Post
    Traded my HD for a GW Roadsmith
    On the fuse panel to the left of the battery there is a "aux" connection which is switched on by the ignition. I think it has a 5 amp fuse.

    I personally would use a product like this from Electrical Connection to insure I had plenty of power and do not overload "Aux" circuit. The "Aux" connection could be used as the "trigger" for the fuse block. This would also give you future power for added accessories.

    https://electricalconnection.com/ind...te-fuse-block/
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    3250+ Posts bikerbillone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfred View Post
    Traded my HD for a GW Roadsmith
    Congrats on that move.

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    2500+ Posts Ozarkryder's Avatar
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    I have installed a 6 place fuse block powered by the battery through a solenoid so it comes on with the ignition on all my bikes for the last 15 years. I have run heated gear, extra lights, power taps and such without worrying about overloading the wire harness. To energise the solenoid I have usually used the lead to the taillight. If anything goes wrong with the circuit the only thing on the bike affected would be the tail light. With the newer bikes being computer controlled with the Canbus system I pull power from an auxillary outlet as mentioned above so as not to upset the computer, but I can run 6 circuits as song as they are under the 30 amps draw. Heated gear for both of us is about 15 amps, GPS is 3amps, most USB power is 1 - 3 amps

    I got the fuse block and solenoid at an auto parts store, about $20 - $25. I had the connectors, various fuses and primary wire indifferent colors already. Here is the set up under the Trike Shop (now Roadsmith) Roadhawk. It is exposed to the elements under the trike so I put it in a sealed box, but on most other rides it went under the seat where it is pretty well protected. This is just the hot side of the circuit. For the ground I just found a handy bolt through the frame or drove a self-tapping screw for a ground.

    Name:  Roadhawk powerblock.jpg
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    Don - 2004 GL1800 Champion trike, 2018 Can Am Spyder RT Limited
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozarkryder View Post
    I have installed a 6 place fuse block powered by the battery through a solenoid so it comes on with the ignition on all my bikes for the last 15 years. I have run heated gear, extra lights, power taps and such without worrying about overloading the wire harness. To energise the solenoid I have usually used the lead to the taillight. If anything goes wrong with the circuit the only thing on the bike affected would be the tail light. With the newer bikes being computer controlled with the Canbus system I pull power from an auxillary outlet as mentioned above so as not to upset the computer, but I can run 6 circuits as song as they are under the 30 amps draw. Heated gear for both of us is about 15 amps, GPS is 3amps, most USB power is 1 - 3 amps

    I got the fuse block and solenoid at an auto parts store, about $20 - $25. I had the connectors, various fuses and primary wire indifferent colors already. Here is the set up under the Trike Shop (now Roadsmith) Roadhawk. It is exposed to the elements under the trike so I put it in a sealed box, but on most other rides it went under the seat where it is pretty well protected. This is just the hot side of the circuit. For the ground I just found a handy bolt through the frame or drove a self-tapping screw for a ground.

    Name:  Roadhawk powerblock.jpg
Views: 272
Size:  45.9 KBName:  IMG_0916.JPG
Views: 260
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    I like this idea of using a Tupperware type of container to protect your relay set-up from the elements.

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