DIY lowers the cure for buffeting

[SubDude]

Hello,

I recently purchased my first trike it's a Honda VTX 1800S, new to the website too. newbie post in introduce yourself area (Howdy from San Angelo Texas).

Anyway I purchased the trike in WI and I live in Texas, so after getting it here I took her out for a test ride, Wow it was a lot to take in.

Aside from almost sliding me off the seat in a high speed turn, I was getting horrible wind buffeting, seemed like my helmet was going to shake off, and I was thinking what a mistake to buy this.

I was advised by several members here about pushing down on the floor boards to eliminate the sliding, which helped marvelously "Thank You".

Next I started looking for ways to control the wind buffeting, first I found that my bat-wing windshield was installed to low for me (I'm 6' with a long trunk).

I set it as high I could get it even with a 10" windshield, it now sets about even with the bottom of my nose.

This took away maybe 70 percent of the buffeting.

Then I started reading about lowers I found they fell in to two basic types: a plastic piece mounted off the forks

or a long narrow chrome piece hanging off the forks (Fangs).

So wanting something more personalized to the trike I made a set from steel and painted them to match.

I used a scrap outside electrical panel door, to cutout not only the lower panels but also for the 3/4" brackets that go halfway around the forks.

I measured from my turn signals down to what I thought looked pretty good without getting to long for the lowers panels, 13" by 6" at top and 4" at bottom.

I did a simple bend about 1 1/2" out from the forks (I put the black divider line in the paint there too).

I made the bracket (straps) 6" by 3/4" (bending about 4" around a 3" pipe) so that they looked similar to the letter J.

Next I cut two cutouts roughly 3/8" to 1/2" deep, at 1/2" intervals from the curved end of the bracket, to allow for the pipe clamps to be able to get a bite in the bracket and the front forks when installing.

I also installed some 1/8" thick rubber with glue to the underside of the brackets where they will contact the forks.

The next step was first to mock up the brackets and the lowers plates on the trike to mark position and weld areas.

After the two lowers were all welded up I checked fit again and prepped them for paint.

I know I wanted to follow the paint scheme that was already on the trike so I laid out what you see below. (rattle can job).

Oh, I took her out for a ride and wind buffeting is almost nonexistent now.

My cost comes down to my time / scrap metal / welding and cutting / scrap rubber / and 4 3" pipe clamps about $8.00 dollars.

Now some pictures (colors are off from taking pictures in garage) but here goes: Ta Da

[Jack Klarich]

Nicer job, they look great

[SubDude]

Hello,

I put a fair amount of time and work in them, thought they might inspire a few others too.

Thank you again,

David Hilton Ret. USN ETC/SS

Nicer job, they look great

[ol' school]

They REALLY look good David! Nice job!!!

[graygoat]

Well done, David!

[FuzzyWuzHe]

nice Job ... really look good.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

After looking at the pics again ... and maybe you thought about this ... could you make them adjustable like baker wing ... I wonder in the Texas summer heat if you may need more air on the engine??? Just a thought

[paws]

You ARE talented David! Your idea to paint the lowers turned out to be a real eye catcher. Congrats on the cosmetic and functionality of your project!

[cavie]

Looks good. I built a set for my C50 Suzuki about 5 years ago out of plexi. I moved them to my 1300 r about 4 years ago. I recommend them to everybody. Now put some Desert Dawgs on the crash bar and you can keep your feet dry in the rain and warm in the winter. Mine have storage pouches to boot.

[Dave59]

Good job, looks great!!

[Marc H]

Good job.I built a set for my v star years ago.They really do work well and yours look great.

[texasbaskets]

You guys who know how to weld and fabricate with metals are my envy. But, I discovered I could butcher plastic, so I too gave it a whirl. Between my forks design and windshield setup, there weren't a lot of mounting places, but they did redirect a lot of turbulent air.

[hogcowboy]

Great job on both for resolving your buffeting issues. For the OP though, don't know if you are getting much buffeting now but if you are still getting some coming over the top of the shield, you might be able to find a recurved shield to replace the original. It will shoot air up another two inches and it sounds like that might help in your case. I have an adjustable shield but a recurve allowed me to get a height, that full up, I look thru and full down I see over. The recurve made it all come together for me. But in your case, getting two more inches and still being able to look over might be near nirvana.