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Thread: Wiring Question

  1. #1
    100+ Posts sonny8l3's Avatar
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    Default Wiring Question

    Hello, I have 4 prong relay that was on the scooter when I bought it. The wiring looked like 9 want to be mechanics wired it during a heck of a week long party. I rewired by copying what was there and cleaning it up with better connections and wire. It had one relay for the horn, I did away with it. The one that is left has gone out 3 times in the last 2 years and I think it's going bad again. I want it gone. One prong goes to the battery, one is grounded to the frame, one goes to power my fuse block, and the last one goes to the ignition switch. The switch is off of an older Freightliner. I figure I can run the one from the battery direct to power the fuse block. The one that is grounded to the frame I can just scrap. My problem is the one that goes to the switch. I figure that there is only one hot wire going to the switch. If I take the wire off the relay, I don't know how to get power to the switch. I'm guessing that only one prong on the switch is supposed to be constant hot. Since I'm mechanically declined and it took me 42 hours, for real, to rewire it, I'm a bit spooked about screwing this up. I'd be grateful for any info. Thanks for your time.

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    8500+ Posts Jack Klarich's Avatar
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    The first thing I would do is confirm the power to the switch with your original set up

    2nd, check the switch for power to any other connections on the back of switch in start mode

    This will give you a starting point

    IMO fuse a hot wire from the battery to your switch, try it to see if it starts

    The ground you had with the relay I would return to a common frame ground just for safety Bad Ju Ju happens with out grounds

    I would also fuse the horn just because

    Good Luck
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    You do not "Have to" have relays. But the entire load will be going through the switch (headlight switch, ect). So the switch itself must be capable of handling the amperage required.

    Typically a fuse box is powered off with the key switch and has a separated circuit not on the key for critical emergency items such as head lights and emergency flashers.

    I would not leave an entire fuse box fully powered on all the time. You can power it with the key switch if it will handle the amperage. If not then you need a master power relay. Your description sounds like that was what the original guy was trying to do.

    I use generic standard format industrial relays and contact bases. Most everything on a relay because none of my motorcycle switches will handle the amp load. I also turn off the headlight along with the fuse box with a master relay as I have no "off" for the headlight (always on when key is on).

    Some good info from the net.

    http://trikerdon.50megs.com/vwtrikewire_1.htm

    https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...g-for-vw-trike

  4. #4
    100+ Posts sonny8l3's Avatar
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    Thanks y'all. Knowing that I am mechanically declined, I think I KNOW the simple basic stuff. Then I ask what I think is probably a simple question and get what sounds like a simple answer. Then I realize that I know even less than I thought. I obviously still have some work to do. Thanks for your time

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    i understand what you are trying to do. I think it might make it easier if you found schematics of the relays in question and saw how the control and load circuits work. there are standard pin assignments for relays. Once you understand those there is no mystery to what is happening through them. You might decide they are a good idea, once understood and sorted.

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    I see the Panasonic ones except for the highest amperage one.

    https://www.alliedelec.com/view/sear...motive%20relay

    And modular bases that all hook together. But the connectors are a separate item......and you have to have the special crimped pliers to put them on.

    https://www.alliedelec.com/product/c...5-fw/70102789/

    But I have just soldered them before I had an electronics shop.

    Bases.

    20160812_114204_zpsgp4olhpy.jpg

    Assembly.

    20160815_181629_zpsnmuhlcfx.jpg

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    Ebay 50 amp relay example.

    A single relay and the wired connector for it.

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F251951378796

    Come to think of it .. ..I probably have some similar to this in my left overs.

  9. #9
    400+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    switch rew.jpgSonny... you may want to install a cutoff switch like this one (red handle) to cut all power when needed or to stop unwanted current drain. good info on the relays, I'm using at least 5 for various functions, and using about 6 more for a homemade turn signal system. there are cheap to buy and easy to use. Its worth your time to learn about them.

  10. #10
    100+ Posts sonny8l3's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the info. y'all. Another VW triker came by and we figured out how to by pass the relay for now. And we found an original wire from the starter to the key switch that was bad. Hopefully things will get better now. I've been looking at the relay info. but it is still way over my head. Eventually I will run across someone that knows them well enough to sit down and explain it in terms that are simple enough for the mechanically declined. I would like to put some in the system because they sound like a good safety net.

    Thanks for your time

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