Type 3 to Type 4 swap challenges???

[M3T]

Hello Trikers,

I found a used type 4 motor to replace my type 3. With simple google search it seems these motors are very similar in size. I'm hoping the type 4 would fit right where my type 3 is currently??? Will my manual trans still work?

Thank you so much for any insight.

I'm up to about 1200 trouble free miles on my old worn type 3 but it just won't die))

Michael

 

[kerryb]

79. Needless to say, very little, if anything, can be swapped between the Beetle engine; everything from the tinware to the exhaust is different. From a power delivery and performance perspective, the rugged Type 4 engine has for a long time been a favourite with tuners, although it’s a tight squeeze to say the least in the back of the Beetle’s engine compartment with much fabrication needed to accommodate its extra width. None the less, a properly set up Type 4 with beefier carbs is a formidable bit of kit. And the good news is you can still get all the necessary parts here to keep it in rude health.

https://www.vwheritage.com/blog/2017/07/13/type-4-engine-explained/

Are your sure your type 3 is used up? What do you know about the health of the type 4? Sounds like the kind of swap that would too costly if you can't do most of it yourself. Also seems like it would be a great upgrade if you did it.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

That is correct.....it is a totally different engine.

But.

I am not saying it is not worth doing.

You need the complete engine and all the fan and tin ware, carbs and everything. Nothing swaps over.

The engine actually fits the bell housing.

The big difference is that most type 4 flywheels do not fit in a type one bell housing. Type 4 being thicker.

So there are adapter flywheels that fit a type 4 and take a type 1 clutch that fit in a a type 1 trans.

So that is the biggest hurdle to the swap. Other little things like throttle linkage, wire routing, ect.

Now lots of the type 4 are fuel injected and that can be a chore to swap over. Lots of folks took off the fuel injection and put a single carb on......they run terribly poor with a center mount carb. Dual carbs work well though and a lot of type 4s had just that.

The general feel is like the difference between a small block and a big block. The type 4 does not make gobs more hp, but the torque feel to it is a major improvement.

A lot of the things we do to our hot rod type 1s is already done to a type 4 from the factory. It is a much more durable engine and even has hydraulic lifters for less maintenance.

 

[M3T]

Thank you for the tips and here is more info about the type 4 I picked up

The engine number is EA107468 I think that means it's a 1700, 1974? originally with FI making it the 80hp model? I believe it is a complete motor with all the tins etc...

So it was converted to a single two barrel Weber that will most likely stick up to high for my engine compartment however I'm planning to install it the way it is till I get it running... May have to convert to dual carbs to maintain my engine cover....

So I took the spark plugs out and they looked pretty good and with my o scope inside the cylinders looks REALLY Good Same under the valve covers and even though the oil is not clear it's not low

I guess I have to get it connected to my tranny to turn it over with a starter motor. Can't wait to get a compression reading!!!

Once I get my type 3 out, I can compare the flywheels to see if I can just use the existing one or will need a conversion as mentioned above. I will also replace the clutch then.

One concern I have is the engine wiring. My current setup type 3 motor with generator vs type 4 with altenator??? Any tips in this area greatly appreciated!!!

Need to pick up an air cleaner for the weber 32/36 DFAV as the exiting one was crushed as well as part of the ac housing. Makes me wonder if the car was in a accident thus crushing those items. I bought the motor off of a hand truck so I never saw the auto body....

Thank you again for the excellent information!!! You Folks ROCK!!!!

M3T