no rear brakes on 2011 Vision Crossbow rear end.

[Buellee]

Trike has set since early Nov. I put new tires on it and was taking it out, when I smashed the rear brakes there were none.. I pumped them and it started to build up pressure. I got home and had a friend help me bleed them. nothing seem to work. We noticed I left the E-brake on. I release it and we bleed the middle bleeder on the front brakes and when I started pumping the rear brake it went to the floor with no pressure and none would build up. We started over and the same. Any Ideas????

[Lee H. Mann]

BRAKE BLEEDING

Note: Before the brake bleeding process begins, make sure that the piston moves out so there is no clearance between the pads and rotor. Otherwise bleeding will not be achievable.

1. Fill brake fluid reservoir with DOT4 brake fluid.

2. Massage the reservoir hose to remove any air that may be present in it.

3. Attach brake bleeder to the first bleeder (right rear caliper) screw as shown making sure to install the 10mm wrench to the bleed screw first.

4. Suck out all air from brake line with the brake bleeder until fluid begins to come through by turning on the brake bleeder and opening the bleeder screw slightly.

5. Tighten the bleeder screw and remove the brake bleeder and 10mm wrench.

Note: Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir so as to not introduce any more air into the system.

6. Repeat steps 1-5 on the remaining bleeder screw using the proper sequence.

7. Again, Attach 10mm wrench and brake bleeder to bleeder screw.

8. SLOWLY and EVENLY pump the brake pedal 7-8 times and hold the pedal down after the last pump. (an additional helper is required for these next few steps)

9. With the brake pedal held down, open the bleeder screw with a 10mm wrench. Bubbles will surface into the brake bleeder hose.

Note: Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir so as to not introduce any more air into the system.

10. Close the bleeder screw with a 10mm wrench.

11. Turn on the brake bleeder to suck up any fluid that may have collected in the hose.

12. Repeat steps 7-11 for each bleeder screw until no bubbles emerge from the brake system. This includes tiny bubbles as well as large.

13. (not a typo) Repeat steps 7-11 to bleed the front brake calipers until no bubbles emerge from the brake system. This includes tiny bubbles as well as large.

14. Fill reservoir with brake fluid to within 1/8” from the top.

15. Install M10 x 35 Bolts to the bottom mounting holes of each caliper using loctite 243 with spacers in place. Tighten using 14mm socket.• (2) M10 x 35 Bolt (CB1995)

16. Torque and mark caliper bolts to 35 ft-lbs using 14mm socket.

[Buellee]

Thanks Lee for the info!!

One question, can you clamp the pads together or move the pistons with a 'C' clamp?? Or what do you use to move the piston?

[Lee H. Mann]

Thanks Lee for the info!!

One question, can you clamp the pads together or move the pistons with a 'C' clamp?? Or what do you use to move the piston?

[Sidecarbill]

If that is the style rear caliper with the e brake built in. Once the piston is fully retracted, do not apply the e brake until the the pads are pumped out against the rotor. If you don't you can have a low pedal condition

[Buellee]

Lee

I could of done that, how can i get around that??

Thanks for the info.

I pumped the right rear and got both fluid and bubbles. now no fluid is coming out. So my thought is to reverse bleed, from the bleeder valve to the reservoir.Any thoughts on that??

[Lee H. Mann]

Lee

I could of done that, how can i get around that??

Thanks for the info.

I pumped the right rear and got both fluid and bubbles. now no fluid is coming out. So my thought is to reverse bleed, from the bleeder valve to the reservoir.Any thoughts on that??

Get around 'what' ??

If the master cylinder is not transferring fluid, it wouldn't matter if you filled from the bleeder, it still wouldn't make pressure.

Have you bled the master cylinder ???

Perhaps a phone call would clear these things up. www.mjtrikes.com

[Jack Klarich]

Start @ the master cylinder

Bench bleed it, if it has gone South you will never bleed the air out @ the calipers

Look in the cylinder as you slowly pump, do you see bubbles coming out thru the compensator port? If you do not you are not going to build pressure

Use slow and even strokes when bleeding, try not to go full to the bottom of the bore. This can cause a seal to roll over, bad Ju Ju

You can also try a bench bleeding kit like this

Available from an auto parts store

[Buellee]

Jim it was great talking to you..I tried bleeding the master cylinder as told but more brake fluid on the floor than in the unit. Shortly I got a phone call from another old biker. He told me that the Old Polaris dealer that had both The Indian and Victory mechanics were still working for them. I called them and they knew what was wrong. The mechanic that worked on the brakes was there when I picked it up the next day. He said that Lehman removed the ABS brakes from the rear wheels, but left the blocking valve intact to the front brakes. They had to energize the blocking valve to bleed the brakes. They also said if the master cylinder needed to be pumped up later this season, then a master cylinder kit or new cylinder would be needed. Again, thanks to everybody and the info I received.. I should of responded earlier, but what the heck.. I was ridin in the wind.

Tom