Extended Brake Pedal Hints.

[MDF48]

The next week or so I am going to be installing a Kuryakyn Chrome extended brake pedal #9672, on my 2016 TGU. I have read a ton of post and watched a bunch of You Tube videos on this.

I have a few questions for those of you that have done this on WET HEAD 14 and up Tri Glides.

1: Did you have to loosen (or remove) the front floor board MOUNT bolt after removing the floor board? Most people say just loosen.

2: Did you absolutely have to remove the 2 bottom crash guard bolts and loosen the top one? Also, does that give you enough FORWARD play without damaging any of the hoses or lines connected from the frame to the lowers?

3: After removing the lower engine guard bolts and loosening the top bolt, does that give you plenty of room to complete the install?

4: Is it easier to fool with taking the cotter pin out after taking the master cylinder loose, or do you have to do it before you take it loose? I know it is a PITA either way.5: Did any of you have to loosen or take off the front heat shield on the front pipe? I saw some post where they said they did.

Any other helpful hints will be appreciated. The reason I am asking all of these questions is because I have read post or watched videos where some indicated having to do a lot more than others. TIA.

[MDO]

I installed one on my 17 Freewheeler & love it.

I just removed the rt. floorboard, I thought it was easier.

[ultrafxr]

Mike. I have that Kury extended brake pedal and it is great. You will love it. With that being said I cannot recall exactly what I had to do during the installation. I do recall that it was a bit tricky but not really all that difficult. Take your time and I'm sure you will figure it out. Good luck.

[MDF48]

I installed one on my 17 Freewheeler & love it.

I just removed the rt. floorboard, I thought it was easier.

Yes, it would be a lot easier on a Freewheeler. No lowers and associated parts to worry with.

[MDF48]

Mike. I have that Kury extended brake pedal and it is great. You will love it. With that being said I cannot recall exactly what I had to do during the installation. I do recall that it was a bit tricky but not really all that difficult. Take your time and I'm sure you will figure it out. Good luck.

I know I can do it, I am just trying to get some ideas that might save a little time. My lower back compressed disc likes to stay upright or on my side as much as possible! Bending over gets a little tough after awhile.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

I've done these on two bikes and one trike ... wish I would of had one today ... everything was out of the way with the head pipe replacement ... didn't think about it until I had it apart.



1: Did you have to loosen (or remove) the front floor board MOUNT bolt after removing the floor board? Most people say just loosen. I just removed the whole floorboard, mount and all. gives you more flex room. It's only one bolt and one allen screw.

2: Did you absolutely have to remove the 2 bottom crash guard bolts and loosen the top one? Also, does that give you enough FORWARD play without damaging any of the hoses or lines connected from the frame to the lowers? I never have messed with the crash bars.

3: After removing the lower engine guard bolts and loosening the top bolt, does that give you plenty of room to complete the install? I didn't go that route.

4: Is it easier to fool with taking the cotter pin out after taking the master cylinder loose, or do you have to do it before you take it loose? I know it is a PITA either way. I did the cotter pin after removing the bolts that hold the master cylinder off, leave the hose connected. There is plenty of play to get the cotter pin out and the levers swapped. Just keep the master cylinder supported, to minimize stress on the lines.

5: Did any of you have to loosen or take off the front heat shield on the front pipe? I saw some post where they said they did. I didn't. If you don't have too, don't ... taking it off is a great way to get a rattle or knock.

Any other helpful hints will be appreciated. The reason I am asking all of these questions is because I have read post or watched videos where some indicated having to do a lot more than others. TIA.

Just make sure you grease the new brake arm before installing. If I remember it comes with some grease.

Also, read all the Kuryakyn instructions ... re torque everything with appropriate values ... and as Kuryakyn says ... Ride On ... LOL.

[ShapeShifter]

Definitely not the plain jane remove and replace procedures.

[GoSlo]

Just last week I replaced the brake arm with the extended one and "stumbled" into the easiest way. Follow the directions Fuzzy posted, but not sure if he did this one thing or not. Loosen the bolts on the master brake cylinder and slide away from the engine mount it was bolted to. Then take the bolts out of the engine mount that the master cylinder bolts to. When you pull the engine mount out the brake pedal almost falls out giving you simple and easy access to the cotter pin.

First time we tried this we only loosened the bolts on the engine mount and there was not enough room for the entire piece (with master cylinder still attached) to move enough because of the lower fairings. Not a difficult job at all. Took maybe an hour after thinking it would be an all day job watching some of those videos where they remove the lowers, remove heat shields, etc.