R & R Freewheeler Gas Tank

Jack Klarich

18000+ Posts
Oct 11, 2016
18,310
16,406
Jax, Fla USA
This is a must to replace spark plug wires, not so much if you are just doing spark plugs

1 I pulled the main fuse

2 remove seat

3 disconnect fuel line ( push up on the collar pull down on the line)

4 On the left front bottom of the tank lightly pull on wire that runs to fuel gauge and un plug it ( I believe the manual says to draw the fuel gauge out of the tunnel to unplug it , IMO too much work and NOT necessary )

5 remove rear bolts on tank

6 unplug wire loom running near top of battery up and under gas tank ( there is NO need to remove the console) unless you want to do extra work that is not needed

7 disconnect the fuel vent hose

8 remove the front 2 bolts holding tank to frame and lift the tank off

Reverse the steps to reinstall, take care when setting the tank down on the frame;)
 
Thanks Jack. I'm curious , when you unplug the fuel line, is it under any pressure at all?

Also, how did the old plugs you pulled look?. You must be close to 20,000 miles.
 
Thanks Jack. I'm curious , when you unplug the fuel line, is it under any pressure at all?

Also, how did the old plugs you pulled look?. You must be close to 20,000 miles.

If you let your Trike set over night NO gas will dribble out No pressure But I still pulled the main fuse

The original plugs looked OK, tho the center electrode was pretty rounded ( that equals higher voltage required to fire the plug Higher resistance) in the old days we would flat file the electrode and re gap em

The firing line was dark gray turning to a lighter brown= getting plenty of fuel unlike the Twin Cams that run lean,( white)on the electrode. AND I hate it when folks say it is impossible to read a spark plug now that we have un leaded gas That is pure non sense If you know what to look for and HOW to do it it comes pretty easy. I hope that helps;)
 
If you let your Trike set over night NO gas will dribble out No pressure But I still pulled the main fuse

The original plugs looked OK, tho the center electrode was pretty rounded ( that equals higher voltage required to fire the plug Higher resistance) in the old days we would flat file the electrode and re gap em

The firing line was dark gray turning to a lighter brown= getting plenty of fuel unlike the Twin Cams that run lean,( white)on the electrode. AND I hate it when folks say it is impossible to read a spark plug now that we have un leaded gas That is pure non sense If you know what to look for and HOW to do it it comes pretty easy. I hope that helps;)

Thanks Jack. I was thinking that about letting it sit overnight to let any pressure bleed off.

I'm a little under 8,000 miles & plan to pull the tank at the 10,000 service, check the plugs & those plug wires you mentioned. I heard someone say before the M8 had rubbing on the plug wires under the tank.

It's something worth checking.
 
A week or so ago when I removed my tank on the Tri Glide, I placed a plastic grocery bag underneath the fuel disconnect line and laid some paper towel on top of the bag. Was concerned in preventing fuel from getting on the cylinder and having to work around that gas smell....well to my surprise very little came out. Most important too is having as small amount fuel in the tank as possible, after all we have to lift that rascal.;)
 
Your post should save me some work in the future.I always removed the consol when removing tank,now if I can locate the wire connectors,I shouldn't have too.
 
Your post should save me some work in the future.I always removed the consol when removing tank,now if I can locate the wire connectors,I shouldn't have too.

Once you remove the seat you will see the main wire you have to disconnect

The fuel gauge wire is tucked up under the tank left from bottom side of the tank

Grab a hold of it and give a slight pull, you will see the connection
 
Not that I'm gonna run out & buy a Free anytime soon but, is there a longer plug wire available or coil relocation option to eliminate the "rub" on tank?
 
Not that I'm gonna run out & buy a Free anytime soon but, is there a longer plug wire available or coil relocation option to eliminate the "rub" on tank?

I am sure there is

The main problem is the Milwaukee8 engine has 4 plugs

The RS plugs are set down deep in the heads

IMO HD should have run the wires thru the electrical caddy under the tank

#30 in the diagram

HD17FLHTCUTG044.gif
 
Makes more sense now. Thanks Jack!

With 4 plugs they must be running at least 2 coils?

Thinking out loud: Seems that on the automotive side individual coil packs are adapted to each cylinder/sparkplug and they're really small/compact nowadays, which would lend themselves to be mounted in close proximity to the plugs...
 
Makes more sense now. Thanks Jack!

With 4 plugs they must be running at least 2 coils?

Thinking out loud: Seems that on the automotive side individual coil packs are adapted to each cylinder/sparkplug and they're really small/compact nowadays, which would lend themselves to be mounted in close proximity to the plugs...

# 7 is the coil Pete

HD17FLHTCUTG017.gif
 
1 other item I saw in a video & forgot to mention, but is worth noting:

After hooking everything back up, it's a good idea to turn the key on and let the fuel pump pressurize the fuel line you disconnected, while checking with a light for leaks.

Especially for the anul among us, as I am a member of that club.:D

Thanks for posting Jack.:cool:
 
1 other item I saw in a video & forgot to mention, but is worth noting:

After hooking everything back up, it's a good idea to turn the key on and let the fuel pump pressurize the fuel line you disconnected, while checking with a light for leaks.

Especially for the anul among us, as I am a member of that club.:D

Thanks for posting Jack.:cool:

Very good point;)
 
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OK probably a dumb question but why do you / we need to change plugs at only 20k? With modern electronic ignitions at least in automobiles they can go much, much longer. I changed the plugs on my Buick SUV a while back when it hit 100k and the plugs looked pretty good to me. And after the change I really could not detect much if any change in the way it ran.

Seems like a bit of overkill to me but I'll defer to those who have more technical knowledge than I have. I just hit 20k on my TG so should I be doing this also?
 
OK probably a dumb question but why do you / we need to change plugs at only 20k? With modern electronic ignitions at least in automobiles they can go much, much longer. I changed the plugs on my Buick SUV a while back when it hit 100k and the plugs looked pretty good to me. And after the change I really could not detect much if any change in the way it ran.

Seems like a bit of overkill to me but I'll defer to those who have more technical knowledge than I have. I just hit 20k on my TG so should I be doing this also?
i pull them and check them and re gap them at least once a year ... at 20k ... I'll just replace them.

Plugs are really cheap and easy to change ... why not change them as recommended by the schedules?
 
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2 years or 30K miles is what the owners manual calls for

These are plain Jane plugs, not Platinum or Iridium so they will wear like plugs in the past on Harleys
 
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1 other item worth mentioning, prior to trying to undo the fuel line quick disconnect, I put a rag behind it and sprayed a shot of silicone on it & moved it a little & it makes things much easier.
 

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