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Thread: Neck height?

  1. #1
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    Default Neck height?

    After looking at a lot of trikes, I am tending to like the lower overall of the designs. I'm not wanting to sit real low, but not as high as some are. What are some of the neck heights that are typical (if that even exists) that ya'll are running?

    My trike build will be a rear engine setup using a front wheel drive out of an 89 Olds Trofeo.

    Thanks.

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    Okay, to me a few things help determine one's neck height, but that is me.

    My neck rake angle is real close to being 48 degree's, but the neck height is measured a few different ways.

    Some go from the ground to the bottom of the lower tree, some go from ground to the lowest point of the bottom neck bearing cup.

    Or there are those like me that did not see the issue and I measured from the ground level up to the top of the the upper bearing cup of (basically to the top of the neck ) or one might say from the bottom of the top triple tree were it meets the upper neck bearing.

    How far is this distance, 28" 3/4" while on blocks. This distance may settle lower once the new front end is installed and if I get the correct shocks installed than I should still be at this distance, oh and as long as I calculated the main tube length correctly. Like I said a few factors can effect or create the neck height.

    Ideally the idea I followed was that of " center of gravity". The idea was the lower the rider weight is to the wheels axle line the harder it is to flip a 3 wheeler, so my Ed Roth designed trike has the rider at about 12 1/2 " above the ground. I did adjust this a bit higher as I extended the tube length of the forks and I raised the neck height up a few inchs so the rear mounted VW engine is more level, almost truely level, but not 100%. I think this is a good match, and now I will sit about 14" above ground level.

    Hope this helps you.

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    That sure does help, thanks. I want to be lower to the ground than riding my Road King but not dragging my ass down the road. Plus the roads here in Illinois suck!! Quite a few places also have the pesky speed bumps. I was looking at 8" of ground clearance with the bottom of the seat around 20" or so. The neck height I was initially contemplating was around 36", which I thought was too high. After your info, I'll probably start looking around 30".

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eggman View Post
    That sure does help, thanks. I want to be lower to the ground than riding my Road King but not dragging my ass down the road. Plus the roads here in Illinois suck!! Quite a few places also have the pesky speed bumps. I was looking at 8" of ground clearance with the bottom of the seat around 20" or so. The neck height I was initially contemplating was around 36", which I thought was too high. After your info, I'll probably start looking around 30".
    personally i like to stay same height as an average bike lower u r the easier u r to be missed.. and there is not much chance of flipping a trike unless it is really narrow ,,, as for the neck, all but on of mine have used a pretty much stock mc front end so the neck height was very close to average stock height... an if you are building a LL the height can be most anything

  5. #5
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    Default Neck Height

    Neck Height, Fork angle:

    Are you building your frame from scratch? Like me or modifying an existing frame? I am building from scratch with forks from a Honda 250 Rebel, check out the fork angle of 30 and 35 degrees in the side car threads, mine is called "HackHer". If you need more info or photos le me know...
    TomyJcreations @ Pinterest.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by grandpanystrom61 View Post
    Okay, to me a few things help determine one's neck height, but that is me.

    My neck rake angle is real close to being 48 degree's, but the neck height is measured a few different ways.

    Some go from the ground to the bottom of the lower tree, some go from ground to the lowest point of the bottom neck bearing cup.

    Or there are those like me that did not see the issue and I measured from the ground level up to the top of the the upper bearing cup of (basically to the top of the neck ) or one might say from the bottom of the top triple tree were it meets the upper neck bearing.

    How far is this distance, 28" 3/4" while on blocks. This distance may settle lower once the new front end is installed and if I get the correct shocks installed than I should still be at this distance, oh and as long as I calculated the main tube length correctly. Like I said a few factors can effect or create the neck height.

    Ideally the idea I followed was that of " center of gravity". The idea was the lower the rider weight is to the wheels axle line the harder it is to flip a 3 wheeler, so my Ed Roth designed trike has the rider at about 12 1/2 " above the ground. I did adjust this a bit higher as I extended the tube length of the forks and I raised the neck height up a few inchs so the rear mounted VW engine is more level, almost truly level, but not 100%. I think this is a good match, and now I will sit about 14" above ground level.

    Hope this helps you.
    I'll be building both the frame and the forks myself. How tall are your blocks? I'm measuring the neck height from the top of the neck down to the ground. Mine is currently at 36". I'm just trying to figure out the approximate Rake Angle that looks pretty decent with a Leading Link front end. So far, what I have read, the trailing numbers should be between 1.5" and 2.5". So I've been laying the forks out to be a 2" trail. Here are a few pics of what I have so far. Let me know if I am in the neighborhood. 16" rim, 26" rim, bottom rail is 8" off of the ground and the top rail is 20" from the ground.

    40degrake.jpg35degrake.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eggman View Post
    I'll be building both the frame and the forks myself. How tall are your blocks? I'm measuring the neck height from the top of the neck down to the ground. Mine is currently at 36". I'm just trying to figure out the approximate Rake Angle that looks pretty decent with a Leading Link front end. So far, what I have read, the trailing numbers should be between 1.5" and 2.5". So I've been laying the forks out to be a 2" trail. Here are a few pics of what I have so far. Let me know if I am in the neighborhood. 16" rim, 26" rim, bottom rail is 8" off of the ground and the top rail is 20" from the ground.

    40degrake.jpg35degrake.jpg
    i would suggest keeping the links longer.. with the short links you dont get much travel and there is a lot of trail change with the short swing of your arm / link.... if i am building a LL i bend the tubes and run a tube side to side "linking" the two arms together. with out that link you have a springer which is all wishy washy for any three wheel vehicle... if you dont want to bend the tubes you can keep a short rake on the frame... jmo but i have built a couple or 15 three wheelers

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    Quote Originally Posted by stacebg View Post
    ... if you dont want to bend the tubes you can keep a short rake on the frame... jmo but i have built a couple or 15 three wheelers
    A couple or 15? Thats quite a few, where would I find some pics of these trikes?

    I've also seen a few front ends that have a pretty decent rake with a fairly steep LL angle. Wouldn't something like that have a fairly large trail change as it is rolling?

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    What ever you do for blocking up the frame, it needs to be solid an "never" changing.

    I used two 4x4 blocks, that turns out to be 6 5/8" clearance that gives me the 28 1/2" neck height.

    Now when all is lowered down and the weight of the trike is felt on the front end, well depending on the style of front end, there will be some droppage in the measurments. For me, I should look at about 1/2" drop in neck height. If you want to keep that exact neck height than one needs to increase the fork length by that 1/2" so when all is on the ground it is what you want.

    The tire will also give a little when all the weight is on it, some say 1/4" should be allowed, I think it depends a bit on how hard the rider runs the front tire.

    Not a LL man, looked into it and just did care for it, but is suppose to be a very solid, stable type of front end for a trike.

    Other's here have done much more than I, I do hope they will chime in and help you with this.

    Oh the front wheel and disc brakes that I am running are off a 2001 Triumph. Yes it was a pain getting all done, but it is the size rim I needed, price was right, and the more I look at it all the more I like it, but that is me and my trike, LOL.

    How one approach's it. I read some start a the wheel and work from that point, other's take a different approach and start at the triple tree's and work down. For them the rim size seemed to vary as the rider needed to achieve what they wanted.

    Like I said, I wanted to keep the rear wheel axle height to match the front wheel axle height. We will see how this all works out for me.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by grandpanystrom61 View Post
    What ever you do for blocking up the frame, it needs to be solid an "never" changing.

    Planning on using jackstands, tacked so they don't shift.

    I used two 4x4 blocks, that turns out to be 6 5/8" clearance that gives me the 28 1/2" neck height.

    Still kinda unsure of the neck height, will have it figured out shortly.

    Now when all is lowered down and the weight of the trike is felt on the front end, well depending on the style of front end, there will be some droppage in the measurments. For me, I should look at about 1/2" drop in neck height. If you want to keep that exact neck height than one needs to increase the fork length by that 1/2" so when all is on the ground it is what you want.

    Probably won't weld the top attaching point until the height is set.

    The tire will also give a little when all the weight is on it, some say 1/4" should be allowed, I think it depends a bit on how hard the rider runs the front tire.

    Not a LL man, looked into it and just did care for it, but is suppose to be a very solid, stable type of front end for a trike.

    Not super wild about it, but I do like the looks and it does appear to be strong and solid.

    Other's here have done much more than I, I do hope they will chime in and help you with this.

    Oh the front wheel and disc brakes that I am running are off a 2001 Triumph. Yes it was a pain getting all done, but it is the size rim I needed, price was right, and the more I look at it all the more I like it, but that is me and my trike, LOL.



    Haven't decided on the front brake set up as of yet. Going to let the tire/rim combo decide that for me.


    How one approach's it. I read some start a the wheel and work from that point, other's take a different approach and start at the triple tree's and work down. For them the rim size seemed to vary as the rider needed to achieve what they wanted.



    I'm going for a beefy looking front end that is safe and easy to steer. I'm hoping that the turning radius won't be too bad.


    Like I said, I wanted to keep the rear wheel axle height to match the front wheel axle height. We will see how this all works out for me.

    I like the same height setup, I think that will be a good look for me as well.
    Thanks for your advice.

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