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Results 101 to 120 of 122

Thread: Neck height?

  1. #101
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    LarryA, thanks for the info. I'll make sure to post pics with some measurements after I get it all back together.

    From what I've been reading, more suggest 2-4" of trail is a good thing. A few say to keep it closer to 1". I did move the trail closer to 2". Here are a few videos of the first ride. Feel free to leave any comments/suggestions.

    Thanks.





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  2. #102
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    Part 3 & 4.




  3. #103
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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    Default Mr. Cool

    That is so cool...
    JakeJacobsen@Pinterest.com

  4. #104
    500+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    I'm thinking I misread your trail figures! it was 5/8 to 3/4" according to your post....for some reason I thought it was 5 inches! I wouldn't change that until more testing is done. If I recall correctly, ,Rex over in the VW forums, has said turning the handlebars from lock to lock while observing the top neck area...if it moves a lot, lots of trail, it very little movement smaller trail. Looking at the videos , maybe the relatively flat faced front tire, has to lift the front of the trike when you turn, whereas a more rounded tire face would not?? Overall looking good, and nothing more fun than a new machine brought to life!

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    If I recall correctly, ,Rex over in the VW forums, has said turning the handlebars from lock to lock while observing the top neck area...if it moves a lot, lots of trail, it very little movement smaller trail. 6r

    some truth to that i have no idea where the numbers change...

    but if u have, lets go extreme, zero rake there will be very little rise of the frame no matter what the trail is

    but you could have a lot of rake and zero trail like this one and there will be a bit of rise ... not sure but i think the wide square tire doesnt help...

  6. #106
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    That is a beast, but got to love it!

    I went thru this on the front wheel. The narrow the tread on the center line of the tire the better it is to handle cornering ( when installed on a motorcycle) On a trike we want the front tire to trake and follow our turning of the wheel, so more tire tread on the road surface the better when on a trike, but what amount of tread on the road is to much ?

    That I think is on the rider and how much ease they want in the steering. The wider the tire tread the more arm strength would be needed. What a beast.

    Speed, if you want fast cornering the narrower centerline of tread on the tire is desired, (again on a motorcycle ) and some of this does apply to the trike, but how fast do you want to turn the corners and all that ?

    With to much speed the trike push's the front tire thru the turn and the slower the speed the more tracking of the tire occurs, better controlled turn you get.

    Large motor and the weight back there, I think I would stick with a big heavy front end. Remember with faster speed down the road the front end could float more if it is to lite, and that is not what I want happening. Again just love how it looks. Got to run, house is up.

  7. #107
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    I was watching the video clips again, noticed when you where on the grass backing up with a turn tha there was some of this pull and drag, this could be because of being on the soft grass.

    How did it feel going down the road ? Did you feel like the trike turn the corner and the rear follow the front, or did it feel chattery as is pushed over the asphalt ? From what I could see it seemed to be smooth, not a super tight turning radius ( or is it ?) going off video, or is it the overall trike length that limits tight turning radius ?? I think both could affect it some.



    Here's to bugs in your teeth!

  8. #108
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    Stacebg...I'm sure the wide square tire will make it a bit more difficult to steer. Kinda was expecting that to a certain degree, just not that much. I did change the trail to about 2", we'll see how that does. I'd like to keep the wider front tire, but may have to go to an MC tire to make it easier to steer.

    grandpanystrom61...don't know if there was any pull and drag, was trying to get it to back over the ruts in the backyard. The wheel/tire seemed to function just fine on the asphalt. Don't know for sure, I was busy dodging rocks that the front tire was tossing at me, lol. As far as the turning radius, I'll check that out when I get the front end put back together on it. Going to try to keep the front end as I have it now. Time will tell. I'm not wanting to have the front end so labor intensive that it takes the fun away from the ride.

    Currently looking at 18 ga sheet steel for the body, 4140HT for some of the smaller english wheels, will be borrowing the english wheel and a shrinker/stretcher from my brother-in-law this weekend.

    Thanks for everyone's input.

  9. #109
    500+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    Regarding, the push/pull that Grandpanystrom61 was speaking of... When backing up I have to hold a stiff arm to keep the bars from whipping to the right or left, especially when making a turn when backing up.

    I'm thinking this a normal condition, but does it get better or worse with more or less rake?

    Or with more or less trail?

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarryA View Post
    Regarding, the push/pull that Grandpanystrom61 was speaking of... When backing up I have to hold a stiff arm to keep the bars from whipping to the right or left, especially when making a turn when backing up.

    I'm thinking this a normal condition, but does it get better or worse with more or less rake?

    Or with more or less trail?
    this is absolutely normal... the more trail the worse it gets think of it as going forward w negative trail... or a caster on an office chair ,,, when u go the other way that wheel on the chair just whips around.. if there was 0 offset / trail it would not want to spin...but more offset/ trail / caster the more it wants to whip.... concept is exactly the same

  11. #111
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    Ok, I understand now. I don't know if there was any. Could've been that I was trying to not run over the hound so I wasn't paying attention.

    When I get it back together, I'll look into it.

  12. #112
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    Mounted the headlights to check for clearance and to lay out the inboard holes for the brackets.

    Tried these on a 12vdc battery on the back porch, lit up the bar 2 blocks down the road. I like!

    Of course they'll always be on dim unless I am out in the country on a dark, desolate road by myself.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ​30942

  13. #113
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    I too like to see the road and all around it if possible. I like the thin porfile of those lites, can I ask where you got them ?

    I am still looking for new lites for my trike, at least head lights and very visible running light up front.

    Nice work you've done, and it has been a joy watching this come together with all your work, you have to be feeling good about it.

  14. #114
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    Here is a link to the head lights. Several to choose from, mine are the 105 watts pair.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    This is the light bar that is under the head lights.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    One night this week, I'll have them hooked into the wiring and align them best I can in the yard on the garage door. I'll know then how much the placement of the light bar works with the top of the front tire.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ​31785

  15. #115
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    The mounting of the front lights doesn't seem to interfere with the top of the front tire. Will check it again when I get the front fender made and mounted.

    Had a fairly productive weekend. Re-did some of the frame work behind the rear seat to support the sides of the body. Added a bit of structure for the rear body panel for the tail lights and back up light.

    When I added the rear seat framework, it really started to come together.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The shop hound isn't much help. No, she doesn't have led eyes.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thought I had it all laid out right. Forgot to move the pattern on the screen down to where the metal actually was on the table. Had a miscalculation by about 2 1/2". Oh well. Guess I'll be doing some grinding.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ​34169

  16. #116
    500+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    A beast indeed! Coming along nicely.

    What are the plans for the rear frame extensions, and the panel laying on top of the motor box?

  17. #117
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    The panel on top is the right side. I ran out of time yesterday.

    The frame extensions will probably get cut off about 6" past the rear sheet metal with a hitch installed and a small platform/step. Gf is a bit on the verticaly challenged side so there needs to be a step.

  18. #118
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    Worked on a pos Harbor Freight English wheel for most of the day Friday. They SUCK!

    Anyways, between Mardigras and family, I finally got one fender on. It needs a bit more attention with some shrinker treatment. Right now its just being held on with three pop rivets, but I'm feeling its going in the right direction.

    Wasn't thinking about how metal reacts with heat...until it was too late. About 15 minutes with a shrinker, it'll be fine.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #119
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    Looking at changing the front tire back to an mc tire. Is a 200/60-16 the tallest rear tire? Would I run it reversed mounted on the front rim?

  20. #120
    500+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    It seems logical that the flat faced front tire would lift the front end when turning making for heavy steering.

    But, before changing to an M/C tire, run the original tire up on a board with a round faced bottom to simulate the M/C tire when turning. Maybe there is not that much difference??

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