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Thread: Brake warning light

  1. #21
    Contributing Member Captain H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ST1300 View Post
    After much research and phone calls I have purchased a Valve from Master Power Brakes. It is model VL 3359, Universal Combo Valve. They were great to work with. I will report back when I get it installed.

    Jeff
    Hi Jeff, did everything go good , and the warning light go out ?? I have the same thing happening with my 2009 .

    thank you , captain h

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    Keep in mind in order to get the valve recentered you have to bleed fluid out of the opposite system. In other words if it was a car and you did work to the front brakes you would open the rears to bleed. Sometimes takes a minute for the fluid to bleed down. Someone watching the light can be helpful. It can go to far then the process starts over again.

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    20+ Posts ST1300's Avatar
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    Sorry for not getting back sooner. I replaced the bias valve and after several times bleeding the brakes I have great brakes. The buzzer is still chiming at me so that must be another issue

    Jeff
    :AllGood:

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    [QUOTE=ST1300;687327]Sorry for not getting back sooner. I replaced the bias valve and after several times bleeding the brakes I have great brakes. The buzzer is still chiming at me so that must be another issue

    Jeff can you advise what you used for a replacement bias valve? Was it Ford or ? Part number? Direct replacement or adaption required?

    Thanks,

    Ted
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    20+ Posts ST1300's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Gorilla;687345]
    Quote Originally Posted by ST1300 View Post
    Sorry for not getting back sooner. I replaced the bias valve and after several times bleeding the brakes I have great brakes. The buzzer is still chiming at me so that must be another issue

    Jeff can you advise what you used for a replacement bias valve? Was it Ford or ? Part number? Direct replacement or adaption required?

    Thanks,

    Ted
    The valve came from Master Power Brakes and the part # is VL 3359. If you go to there web site you will see just the valve or a kit containing the valve and everything needed to change it. If yiu get just the valve be sure to get the tool for bleeding it also.

    Hope this helps

    Jeff
    :AllGood:

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    [QUOTE=ST1300;687536]
    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla View Post

    The valve came from Master Power Brakes and the part # is VL 3359. If you go to there web site you will see just the valve or a kit containing the valve and everything needed to change it. If yiu get just the valve be sure to get the tool for bleeding it also.

    Hope this helps

    Jeff
    Thank you for posting the information ride safe
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Hi Jeff

    don't mean to hijack your thread Jeff, but can anyone post a wiring diagram for the brake system. this might help, if it doesn't help you it will really help me

    Dragon

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragon View Post
    Hi Jeff

    don't mean to hijack your thread Jeff, but can anyone post a wiring diagram for the brake system. this might help, if it doesn't help you it will really help me

    Dragon
    Chuck are you looking for the brake switch wiring or what exactly?
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    good morning

    the brake switch mostly yes, but all would be nice

    Thanks

    Dragon

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    Quote Originally Posted by ST1300 View Post
    After much research and phone calls I have purchased a Valve from Master Power Brakes. It is model VL 3359, Universal Combo Valve. They were great to work with. I will report back when I get it installed.

    Jeff
    Here is the link for the valve. There are three options to purchase the valve. Looks like one would need to purchase the kit with parts they don't need to get the bleed tool, which is $20. more than just the basic valve.



    https://www.mpbrakes.com/pc_combined...word=VL%203359

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    Good morning

    according to the wiring diagram, only 2 places activate the brake light warning, brake fluid level in reserivor and emergency brake switch, another thing to look for is you might have a burned out light in the instrument panel. seeings how some of the wiring harness have been left off door ajar ect, there might be a light burned out causing a short. just a thought

    Dragon

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