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Thread: charging issue???

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fowler View Post
    You know what I just painted my alternator stand.

    Could it be that I am not getting a good ground there?

    I will try the ground strap idea before I replace the alternator
    The alternator should ground to the engine and the engine should ground to the frame

    You can check for grounds with an ohm meter

    A bad ground can cause erratic volt readings and cause over heat issues also

    Adding extra grounds will not hurt in fact you may find them to help

    Clean and tight grounds
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fowler View Post
    You know what I just painted my alternator stand.

    Could it be that I am not getting a good ground there?

    I will try the ground strap idea before I replace the alternator
    If the paint is thick enough, You probably aren't getting a good ground, Just file it down to bear metal at the alternators bolt down spots...
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

  3. #23
    850+ Posts vwbug72501's Avatar
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    Since the VW alternator clamps in a saddle in the stand with a band. I'd say pull the alt and clean the paint off the inside of the stand saddle area where the strap surrounds the alt and the alt saddle area and reassemble. Maybe a small piece of aluminum screen wire in that area between the alt and stand will help with a gas-tight electrical connection from alt to engine and won't mess up your new paint job.

  4. #24
    900+ Posts Fowler's Avatar
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    replaced the alternator

    Still the same

    At 700 - 800 RPMs the voltage is 12v- 13v

    above 800 RPMs it jumps up to 14.5

    here is my diagram

    http://3fowlers.com/images/photos/manual/trike_3.jpg

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thank you
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fowler View Post
    replaced the alternator

    Still the same

    At 700 - 800 RPMs the voltage is 12v- 13v

    above 800 RPMs it jumps up to 14.5
    Both my Tri-Glide's at any rpm's over an idle the gauge showed 14+. With out any ill effects..........
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

  6. #26
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    What does your battery read with out engine running?

    Anything above battery voltage @ an idle should be fine

    Fully charged battery reading 12.7 volts

    So if your volt meter is showing say 12.9 to 13.5 @ idle should be OK( keep in mind this is no super Alternator nor does it have to be)

    14.5 @ higher RPM is fine

    You should check the volt reading from the battery wire on the alternator to compare it @ the battery The reading should be with in 1/2 volt

    7-800 RPM is kind of low IMO maybe bump it up to 900 see what your voltage is
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  7. #27
    900+ Posts Fowler's Avatar
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    OK here are my readings

    before starting

    Battery - 12.67v

    Alternator - 12.67v

    Running

    800 rpms - 12.38v

    900 rpms - 12.49v

    1000 rpms - 12.70v

    1400 rpms - 14.38v

    Running, battery wire removed from alternator and voltage tested at alternator

    900 rpms 15.24v

    I wish I would have ran this test before replacing the alternator

    reconnected wire to alternator

    set to 900 rpms

    ran for 20 minutes at idle to simulate stuck on the road due to the recent road work around here

    The voltage never went below 12.45

    shut down the engine

    12.67V

    Summery

    the voltage reading fluctuated up and down just a little on each reading but the above is about where they were

    The battery is being kept charged

    I think it will be OK so I'm going to leave it as it is.

    Next project on this trike

    Next I want to adjust me carburetor. I have not adjusted it for years and it seems to be running a little rich

    http://3fowlers.com/carbsetup.html
    Thank you
    Bob

  8. #28
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    "ran for 20 minutes at idle to simulate stuck on the road due to the recent road work around here"

    Funny, but the true.

    Seems those numbers are good, makes me glad that I don't have any gauges, .

    Good luck on the carb, they can be tricky. My last one drove me crazy (cheap & old).


  9. #29
    500+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    The only thing I can add, is to check the wiring #10 circuit from ign sw, to terminal board, to the alternator lite connections, then to the alternator This may be supplying the excitation voltage to start the alternator charging....worth a look!

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarryA View Post
    The only thing I can add, is to check the wiring #10 circuit from ign sw, to terminal board, to the alternator lite connections, then to the alternator This may be supplying the excitation voltage to start the alternator charging....worth a look!
    yep checked that

    don't remember the exact voltage but it was above 12v
    Thank you
    Bob

  11. #31
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    Running

    800 rpms - 12.38v

    900 rpms - 12.49v

    1000 rpms - 12.70v

    1400 rpms - 14.38v

    Are these tests made with lights or anything else on?

    I would still expect to see your original 12.7 volts even @ lower RPM

    You are using more battery voltage @ lower RPM than you are making
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  12. #32
    900+ Posts Fowler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    Running

    800 rpms - 12.38v

    900 rpms - 12.49v

    1000 rpms - 12.70v

    1400 rpms - 14.38v

    Are these tests made with lights or anything else on?

    I would still expect to see your original 12.7 volts even @ lower RPM

    You are using more battery voltage @ lower RPM than you are making
    All lights on and headlight on high beam

    all the eye lights on to (lights in the skull eyes)

    Amp powered up

    GPS on

    I guess I should have turned all that off
    Thank you
    Bob

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fowler View Post
    All lights on and headlight on high beam

    all the eye lights on to (lights in the skull eyes)

    Amp powered up

    GPS on

    I guess I should have turned all that off
    Now it makes more sense to me

    Test it with just head lights on to see what you have

    I think you should be OK now
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  14. #34
    900+ Posts Fowler's Avatar
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    Default the problem came back or actualy never left

    I thought it was fixed but was wrong

    Should have listen to you Jack

    the voltage started dropping down to 10v again

    this time I disconnected every circuit not needed to actually run

    it started charging fine

    I then reconnected each circuit 1 at a time

    It turned oy to be the Headlight circuit

    Thought it was the dimmer switch but that turned out to be OK

    disconnected 1 headlight still had the issue

    disconnected the other headlight and the issue went away

    put the headlight back the issue came back

    replaced the headlight and the issue is gone

    Now at idle and with everything on it charges above 13v

    the bad headlight was still working just drawing to much

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thank you
    Bob

  15. #35
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    Good deal Bob

    Sometimes Lectricity can be a real pain

    Now that you have it charging @ 13 volts you should be OK

    Thanks for checking back in and good luck

    PS, if you still have your old alternator now would be a good time to have it rebuilt and up the amperage
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Wow, who would of thought about that, Jack did !

    Always learning something new here about something. Thank you everyone for your input and help, this can help many of members...................

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