Parking Brake Hex Bar Adjustment

[keikat2]

I am trying to adjust the Parking Brake on my 2014 Triglide to hold the trike on a steep incline when in first gear using the Parking Brake. To adjust, I have the trike in neutral. I have fully forward loosened the JAMNUT and, while holding the JAMNUT with a box wrench, I am turning the ADJUSTER Hex Bolt "counter-clockwise" with another box wrench which moves the ADJUSTER Hex Bolt towards the JAMNUT with a new set of threads to further extend the JAMNUT. However, after doing this approx. 10 - 15 minutes, the trike still easily rolls with the Parking Brake fully applied. What am I doing wrong? Looking forward to any help.....

[MDO]

Here is the adjustment procedure from my 2017 trike service manual. You can try this, or do what most on here do & get a length of Velcro & use it to apply the front brake. It's much easier & works great.

PARKING BRAKE 1.7

ADJUSTMENT

FASTENER	TORQUE VALUE
Parking brake adjuster jamnut	72–120 in-lbs	8.1–13.6 N·m

Wheels on the Ground

1. Place the vehicle on a flat level surface.

2. See Figure 1-14. Inspect the return spring for damage.

Replace if necessary.

3. Release parking brake. Verify the vehicle moves easily

when pushed by hand.

4. See Figure 1-13. Pull the boot back. Loosen jamnut (2).

5. Push the parking brake pedal to the first click (1). Attempt

to roll the vehicle.

a. If some resistance is felt, go to next step.

b. If wheels turn freely, release brake and lengthen

adjuster (3). Check and repeat until resistance is felt.

6. Push the parking brake pedal two more clicks to the third

click. Vehicle should not move when pushed. If vehicle

moves, release brake and lengthen adjuster (3). Check

and repeat until vehicle does not move..

NOTE

Apply a coat of grease to the adjuster threads to ease future

adjustments.

7. Release the parking brake pedal. Verify vehicle moves

freely.

8. Hold adjuster and tighten jamnut to 72–120 in-lbs

(8.1–13.6 N·m).

NOTE

Verify parking brake operates properly when parking on a slope.

9. Install the boot over the adjuster.

[keikat2]

MDO, I have the procedures as detailed in the trike manual. However, I do not know if the Parking Brake has every worked correctly since I purchased the trike new. When I loosen the JAMNUT, I can turn the ADJUSTER "clockwise" and/or "counter-clockwise" freely from the round metal end piece below the Hex Bar ADJUSTER. Do I need to hold the JAMNUT when turning (which way?) the ADJUSTER Hex Bar or do I simply turn the ADJUSTER Hex Bar with the JAMNUT loosened? Basically, I am wanting to know which way to turn the Hex Bar ADJUSTER and if I should hold the JAMNUT while turning the ADJUSTER?

Also, is there anywhere you can see the "wire-slack" being taking up by the Parking Brake Hex Bar adjustment?

Thank you for your response, Allen

[keikat2]

I usually look for a good video on YOU TUBE when performing installations and maintenance like this on my Harley Triglide. However, I cannot seem to find one, using the YOU TUBE search engine, for the Park Brake Adjustment with the Parking Braking located below the driver's left side foot rest. Does anybody know of one?

[MDO]

I just get the jam nut away from the adjuster a little.

Did you check the spring and is it attached?

When you do the step to push the brake to the 1st. Click, are you getting any resistance?

Basically, does it do anything at all & have some resistance, or us it totally out of adjustment?

Maybe you went the wrong way.

When adjusted properly, it shouldonly take 3 clicks downward pedal pressure to apply the brake.

Good luck. Unless something is broke, It's literally a 5 minute job. My dealer adjusted mine for free when I was in last getting a sensor replaced.

[keikat2]

Hi MDO,

First of all thank you for your response. The spring is attached, appears to work fine, and the pedal returns to its normal position when I push the Parking Brake pedal down all the way and let my left foot slide off. As far as the parking brake first click, there might be a very slight resistance; however, by the third or fourth click, the resistance is still the same as the first click. From all appearances, I think I am performing the Parking Brake adjustment correctly, as detailed by the manual instructions; however, I am not doing something exactly correct or something is broken. When performing the adjustment (holding JAMNUT and turning HEX ADJUSTER), is there a way you can tell the parking brake wire is tightening up other than pressing down the parking brake pedal for "click" testing? What about viewing something with wire, pulley, and lever at the rear of the trike when performing the adjustment? Thank you, Allen.

[keikat2]

MDO,

Something else I want to ask. The only screw threads I am viewing are in front of the JAMNUT that the JAMNUT rides on when screwing the nut forward. When turning, should the HEX ADJUSTER also move forward on the screw threads toward the loosening of the JAMNUT? Thank you, Allen

[arnie]

if you have resistance on the first click but it does not increase when you get to the second or third click, how's your brake pads look

[keikat2]

MDO,

Regarding the rear brake pads, I have had the brake pads changed out once with Lehman pads since purchasing the trike in 2014. The trike has approximately 22,000 miles on it at this time. Just got back off a road trip from Dallas, Texas to New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, South Dakota, and back to Texas in two weeks. The rear brakes seemed to perform well on the trip. However, I will have the brake pads checked out. Thanks for the help. Allen S.

[keikat2]

I stated Lehman brake pads in the previous post. Should be Lyndall brake pads. Sorry for "mis-namer".

[MDO]

I was not clear & was referring to flushing the brake fluid every 2 years, as that's what HD states has caused all the problems. Let us know what you find.

[Jack Klarich]

See post 4 in this thread

https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...tment-question

[Jack Klarich]

in picture 1-12 # 3 is the adjuster you need to turn away from the lock nut to lengthen the cable ( more threads showing) to properly adjust the parking brake. This also sets the rear pads If I am reading your posts right you are turning the wrong way

[keikat2]

Hi Jack, thank you for your response. I just measured the length of screw threads currently showing including the ones covered by the JAMNUT. There are currently 7/16" of an inch of screw threads showing including the ones the JAMNUT are riding on. If I understand what you said in your response, after loosening the JAMNUT, the number of visible screw threads should be increasing

when I turn the ADJUSTER the correct way (clockwise?) away from the JAMNUT. From what I am experiencing, I guess the ADJUSTER mechanism has not completely loosened up because the number of screw threads are remaining the same with the entire ADJUSTER mechanism turning. Ahead of the JAMNUT and below the ADJUSTER, there are silver metal round spacers that are each approx. 1/2" inch long that turn independent of the ADJUSTER. I am thinking that when I turn the ADJUSTER, these 1/2" inch long spacers are also turning which does not allow the ADJUSTER to turn independently increasing the number of visible screw threads. In turn, I am thinking I am going to have hold one of these spacers with a pair of pliers while turning the ADJUSTER which should then prevent the entire ADJUSTER/SPACERS mechanism from turning. Then, when I turn the ADJUSTER, it should be the only thing turning which should increase number of the screw threads properly adjusting the Parking Brake mechanism. Please let me know if aforementioned makes sense. Thanks, Allen.

[Jack Klarich]

In figure 1-12 you see the barrel by the jam nut, hold that from turning when you make your adjustment. Yes I think you have it right now. This is how I make my adjustments. Be sure to coat the threads and hardware with some grease when you are done. Slide the protective rubber sheath back over also, you can secure it with tie straps

[keikat2]

Hi Jack, Thank you for your response. First, I sprayed all the exposed screw threads with WD-40, wiped off the excess, and held a BIC charcoal lighter torch under the HEX ADJUSTER hoping it would loosen the ADJUSTER. Next, with pliers, I held the silver round barrel spacer in front of the JAMNUT and behind the "U" shaped notch of the black parking brake frame and attempted to turn the ADJUSTER with a box wrench. The ADJUSTER would not turn. I repeated the aforementioned steps several times; however, I could never get the ADJUSTER to turn freely on the screw threads to shorten or lengthen the threads. The ADJUSTER must be frozen with inside rust on the threads preventing it from turning. In addition, each time I performed the above steps, the silver barrel spacer, being held with the pliers, kept getting scratched and gouged by the pliers teeth. In turn, I will probably take my Trike into one of the local HD dealerships to have the parking brake mechanism inspected. Also, I can have the dealership drain and replace the brake fluid; as well as, check the brake pads. I really enjoy performing the maintenance on my Harley Trike especially when there is a YOU TUBE video showing exactly how the maintenance is performed. The HD manuals sometimes can be vague and not very specific in its directions. Once again, thank you for all your help, assistance, and instructions. Allen S.

[Jack Klarich]

Allen, this is what happens when they have not been adjusted and lubed in a while

No different than trying to adjust a parking brake on a car from the rust belt

Have you tried applying heat directly to the adjuster that covers up the threads?

I am afraid the dealer is going to want to replace ALL of the cables @ a pretty high price

Sorry this did not work for you

If it were mine I would try the heat, and if you get it to move, clean the threads good and lube the hell out of everything and put the rubber boot back over the adjuster

Good Luck

[MDO]

I use silicon spray for lubing things. It's just my opinion, but I would keep the flames away from the WD40.

You also may want your HD dealer to ensure that any needed recalls have been done to your Tri-Glide

[keikat2]

Hi Jack/MDO, I held the flame of a BIC charcoal starter torch directly underneath the long ADJUSTER HEX cover moving the flame the full length of ADJUSTER HEX cover for about 15 to 20 seconds each time. Maybe I should do the flame a little longer. In turn, I will use the flame a few more times up and down the length of ADJUSTER HEX cover using some silicon spray; as well, to hopefully loosen the ADJUSTER HEX cover. The thing that bothers me the most about continuing doing this is finding a way to hold and prevent the silver metal barrel spacer, ahead of the JAMNUT, from turning while trying to turn and "break-loose" the ADJUSTER HEX cover without further damaging the silver metal barrel spacer. It does not having any nut lugs on it to use a box wrench. I guess I could try using some vise grips instead of pliers for a tighter grip. Any other suggestions preventing the silver metal barrel spacer from turning? Once again, thank you for all your help.

[Jack Klarich]

Your going to have to get that adjuster pretty hot to break it free

Use a vise grips on the other end, go easy, if it does not come free you will need more heat