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Thread: Cloudy Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Explained By Dealer After Flush

  1. #21
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    That should work good

    Best of luck
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  2. #22
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    Keep in mind with brake fluid once the container is opened the clock is ticking

    Meaning the fluid will start absorbing moisture

    When I taught brake class it never failed , I would see 5 gallon cans of brake fluid in the shops with NO tops on

    I always had my meter with me so I would check the fluid. 9 out of 10 times the fluid was contaminated. Glad I was not responsible for paying for the fluid
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  3. #23
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    Hi Rhino 2, What I am trying to do is periodically replace the majority of hydraulic clutch fluid without having to remove the transmission outside cover to bleed the clutch line. Today, I attempted to remove the transmission outside cover and there is simply not enough room between the downpipes and Trike frame to remove the bottom portion of the transmission cover. In turn, to have enough room, I would have to loosen/remove the Trike's aftermarket downpipes. Thanks for your response. Allen S.

  4. #24
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    Thanks Jack, When I purchase the new DOT 4 hydraulic fluid, I will use what I need and the remaining will be disposed. In turn, if this process works, my plans are to make it a yearly one using newly purchased hydraulic fluid at that time. Once again, thanks for all the help. I will eventually get there. Allen S.

  5. #25
    2250+ Posts radismukes's Avatar
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    Allen

    Texas have consumer protection laws for repair work. Check out this link.

    https://www.texasattorneygeneral.gov...ar-repair-tips

    Good Luck!
    “Come and Take It!” “Remember the Alamo!” “Remember Goliad!”

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  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by keikat2 View Post
    .....In turn, if a person wanted to periodically update new clutch fluid into the clutch system, wouldn't it be possible to remove the clutch reservoir cover, remove all the reservoir clutch fluid and any debris from the reservoir bottom, add new fluid to the indicated "fill" line, place the reservoir cover back on and reinstall the cover screws. As long as the clutch lever is not pulled-in during this process, no air should enter the clutch lines.
    This is exactly what I have done on my bikes for several years. At least twice a year I use a syringe and suck all of the fluid out of my clutch and brake reservoirs, wipe out the reservoirs and add new fluid. So far I have never had any problems with my clutch or brakes. Not recommending this just saying that it works for me.

    Sunman

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