2007 GL1800 motor trike blowing 20 amp fuse

[PKLGW]

Good to know thank you!! 11.5 hrs from here.

[PKLGW]

Good morning everybody!! Well we went on The "ride to remember" for POW/MIA awareness with police escort from Helena to West Yellowstone and it was an amazing ride.

Could not get my fuse to hold by riding 15 - 20 miles like I previously stated so I did not have gauges. Tried three times during the day and it finally held for the rest of the day. Next morning it blew, after riding 50 miles I tried another one and it held the rest of the day. Thought I would go out to the garage this morning and try it, and it didn't blow. Now watch, I have a appointment tomorrow for this and they won't be able to find the problem or get it to blow. We'll see.

[trike lady]

Hopefully they'll find the problem and they look in the area of the gauges and possibly radio.

[PKLGW]

Thanks everybody for your input!! This is the detail report I was given (Below). I was charged for 1 hour at $99.00. The fuse won't blow now, so I will have to see. I do not believe it was water but what do I know.

I would like to find a glowing motor trike place (to haul it to if needed) to have a complete 30,000 mile safety inspection /maintenance done. I welcome any suggestions, names and phone numbers. Thanks in advance!!

BATTERY CABLES CHECK OK.

ENGINE GROUND CABLE CONNECTION OK.

BATTERY LOAD TEST OK. TEST SLIP WITH R/O HARD COPY.

TESTED AMPERAGE DRAW ON FUSES WITH KEY ON AND WHILE CRANKING/RUNNING.

Fl/ING/FAN CONT. (20AMP) MEASURED 5.2 AMPS MAX.

TAIL/ILLUM (20AMP) MEASURED 5.3 AMPS MAX.

RADIO/CB/FLASHER (20AMP) MEASURED 5.6 AMPS MAX.

HEATER (SEAT/GRIP) (20AMP) MEASURED 6.23 AMPS WITH BOTH ON AT MAX SETTINGS.

RVS./START (5AMP) READING ONLY .1-.2AMPS MAX.

BATTERY (15AMP) 2.65 AMPS MAX.

INSPECTED WIRE AND CONNECTIONS UNDER SEAT AND FAIRING POCKETS.

NOTED TRIKE KIT WIRING CONNECTIONS USE A FEW SCOTCH-LOCK WIRING CONNECTORS. POSSIBLY GETTING WATER IN CONNECTION. CREATING A INTERMITTENT ELECTRICAL SHORT.

[rhino 2]

Thanks everybody for your input!! This is the detail report I was given (Below). I was charged for 1 hour at $99.00. The fuse won't blow now, so I will have to see. I do not believe it was water but what do I know.

I would like to find a glowing motor trike place (to haul it to if needed) to have a complete 30,000 mile safety inspection /maintenance done. I welcome any suggestions, names and phone numbers. Thanks in advance!!

BATTERY CABLES CHECK OK.

ENGINE GROUND CABLE CONNECTION OK.

BATTERY LOAD TEST OK. TEST SLIP WITH R/O HARD COPY.

TESTED AMPERAGE DRAW ON FUSES WITH KEY ON AND WHILE CRANKING/RUNNING.

Fl/ING/FAN CONT. (20AMP) MEASURED 5.2 AMPS MAX.

TAIL/ILLUM (20AMP) MEASURED 5.3 AMPS MAX.

RADIO/CB/FLASHER (20AMP) MEASURED 5.6 AMPS MAX.

HEATER (SEAT/GRIP) (20AMP) MEASURED 6.23 AMPS WITH BOTH ON AT MAX SETTINGS.

RVS./START (5AMP) READING ONLY .1-.2AMPS MAX.

BATTERY (15AMP) 2.65 AMPS MAX.

INSPECTED WIRE AND CONNECTIONS UNDER SEAT AND FAIRING POCKETS.

NOTED TRIKE KIT WIRING CONNECTIONS USE A FEW SCOTCH-LOCK WIRING CONNECTORS. POSSIBLY GETTING WATER IN CONNECTION. CREATING A INTERMITTENT ELECTRICAL SHORT.

Maybe with the scotch lock's........You should Make sure they are dry and corrosion free and tight, Ie, squeeze them down a little more with a plier, And seal them with a liquid tape ETC...

I stoped using them years ago because some times the aluminum blade will corrode or from vibrations rise up just enough to cause power surges and pop fuses. ...

[trike tech]

they mention or say where the scotchlock style connectors are used? Shouldn't be any on any of the lighting circuit, etc (that kit would have used the factory lights/harness from the saddlebags of the motorcycle).

[PKLGW]

I pulled the seat, the scotch lock connectors they said they check looked untouched. I did check everyone I could see, to make sure tab was all the way down and that there was no signs of corrosion. Then I also gave them a good wrap with electrical tape. I turned switch on with everyone I did to see if I could blow the fuse and could not. I rewire tied them to keep them from hanging, pinching rubbing etc. (I know they didn't check them because my wire ties I put on were still on and would of had to be removed to check them).

I pulled the front left pocket to see if the grill, sensor and wires that I told them was left hanging from the bluetooth install in Sturgis was put back where to goes and it was and looked more professional. I put the heated seat back on and everything is working.

Hoping it holds till I find a top notch place to have everything checked at 30,000 miles.(suggestions, names and numbers welcome) Would take out of state if needed. Thanks everybody!

[trike lady]

Where do they tap in to get power to the Bluetooth set up? The item itself could be faulty. That's usually the way it goes you bring it to the shop and everything works as normal and the next day everything resumes fuse blowing.

[trike tech]

I pulled the seat, the scotch lock connectors they said they check looked untouched. I did check everyone I could see, to make sure tab was all the way down and that there was no signs of corrosion. Then I also gave them a good wrap with electrical tape. I turned switch on with everyone I did to see if I could blow the fuse and could not. I rewire tied them to keep them from hanging, pinching rubbing etc. (I know they didn't check them because my wire ties I put on were still on and would of had to be removed to check them). I pulled the front left pocket to see if the grill, sensor and wires that I told them was left hanging from the bluetooth install in Sturgis was put back where to goes and it was and looked more professional. I put the heated seat back on and everything is working.

Hoping it holds till I find a top notch place to have everything checked at 30,000 miles.(suggestions, names and numbers welcome) Would take out of state if needed. Thanks everybody!

I know it won't help you any but we don't use scotch lock connectors under the seat on the Goldwing conversions (on kits like yours we utilize the OE Honda wiring unmodified); granted that doesn't mean a dealer or someone else didn't do something funky.

Next time you have your seat off, snap a picture showing the connector locations, etc. Maybe the masses here will notice something that may be getting overlooked.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

I will use those connectors on occasion, but, I always put dielectric grease in them.

[PKLGW]

Will do Trike tech. Should of took a picture before I put seat back on.

[trike lady]

Has the problem been resolved?

[PKLGW]

I will have to see. I have not blown a fuse since.

[PKLGW]

Has the problem been resolved?

Thanks to a motor trike expert in Casper Wyoming, my 20 amp fuse issue is resolved. It was two wires to the rear license plate bracket put in the same shrink tube by my painters and it was pinched in the frame of the bracket. After riding he figures it wore thru and shorted out when the right conditions took place. They are now done correctly by him. Thanks to everybody that replied with help!!

[BrokenBackJack]

Glad you found the problem!

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Glad it's resolved ... lectric problems are a bugger ... my answer is always dielectric grease.