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Thread: Exhaust header frustration

  1. #1
    10+ Posts
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    Aug 2019
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    Arnol, Penna, USA
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    Default Exhaust header frustration

    I have a 2006 Ultra with a California Sidecar trike kit installed. I recently changed the clutch and had to remove the rear header to get the primary case off. Everything went smoothly until I tried to reinstall the header. I have tried everything to get this header to seal. The rear header crosses over to the left side and then back to the rear of the trike. I have tried installing the header pipe without the tail pipe attached and with the tailpipe installed loosely. The header where it goes into the head is squared off, not tapered and I have tried OEM tapered gasket and SE flat gaskets but neither seems to make a difference and I end up with a significant leak where the header pipe goes into the head. Does anyone have a suggestion?

  2. #2
    13000+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Dec 2014
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    Grand Junction, Co. USA
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    13,241

    Default

    Are you using the HD torque specs and sequence? Makes a huge difference ... it's not like you'd expect.

  3. #3
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    Default

    I actually haven't been. Would you suggest tightening the header pipe with or without the tailpipe attached?

  4. #4
    13000+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by klkordzi View Post
    I actually haven't been. Would you suggest tightening the header pipe with or without the tailpipe attached?
    When I did my 14 Tri & 15 Tri ... I had just the head pipe in hand (nothing else attached - my rule of thumb, start at the head and work to the rear for exhaust) and slid it on the lower mounting bolt loosely ... rotated it towards the front cylinder and in ... put the head nuts on loosely ... rotated it towards the rear cylinder and in ... put the nuts on loosely ... then torqued the head nuts according to the sequence and spec. The torque sequence and spec helps bring the head pipe in square even though the pipe "seems" to be under some load.

    Other tips:

    Before you slide either pipe into place, check the gasket to ensure it is lined up.

    If you're using the tapered gaskets, make sure they are started into the hole before the pipe or at the same time. If they start in after the pipe they bunch up and will never seal. Don't ask how I know ...

    The cross over pipe can be a bugger to seal as well. Again, the gasket has to start in first or at the same time as the pipe, after will mess with the gasket.

    I always re check head nut torque after a hundred miles or so ... just because.

    Getting a torque wench on the front cylinder is a mother bear ... be patient and ensure the torque wrench is in the proper orientation so as to "read" the proper torque.

    Good luck and let us know how it goes.

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