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Thread: Two batteries anyone?

  1. #1
    1250+ Posts CrystalPistol's Avatar
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    Default Two batteries anyone?

    Not because I need two, but back in 2004 I bought our trike, it had a Comp-U-Fire alternator in it, the seller put a brand new Odyssey PC680 AGM battery in it in August 2004, I know because I picked the battery up at Batteries Plus on the way to load the trike to haul home. That same PC680 was still doing duties in the trike in late 2015, I decided it was time to replace and bought two on sale, the second one was for a '85 GL1200A I had. Long story, I got sick in later 2016, so bike & trike sat. I took the new Odysseys out, put on a bench, and then in 2017 I was doing better and had a relapse. I also sold my '74 Triumph and decided to let the 1200 go as well. Forward to 2018 and I had a long recovery from my stem cell transplant … & shingles. In Spring of 2019, I got the 1200 out of basement, but could not find the new AGM (nor my electric chainsaw), so I put the 2004 vintage Odyssey in the 1200, it started it up OK. I rode it up through the yard to carport, but I could tell my balance was a mess. I pumped old treated fuel out of the 1200 and replaced with a couple gallons 2019 gas and then ran an ad for the 1200 on Craig's List. After selling the 1200 in June, I was browsing in the basement, and found my "now extra" new Odyssey (and my electric chainsaw I had stashed earlier).

    Anyway, I don't need another unused battery sitting on a shelf. I have portable power in a wheeled cart I built housing two Group 65 auto batteries, together they'll start a Cummins. Tonight I made my "holder" to go in the lower trunk of my Lehman to secure the extra battery. It's painted & drying as I type. My plan is to wire it using suitable cabling and a screw type battery disconnect on the negative side between it and "ground". I figure the Comp-U-Fire can keep up. These disconnects are small than those used in cars or trucks, more suited to use with 1/4" bolts.

    Not because I need it, I just hate to see a good battery sit unused. This way, I'd at least have access to it if needed on the road. Anyway, just thought might be of interest. I have a couple of these disconnects, thinking I might put one to each battery. Such would maybe be handy when leaving it parked for long periods, like in winter if harsh. Batteries don't push current, but two will supply a plenty if needed.
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  2. #2
    1250+ Posts CrystalPistol's Avatar
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    Default

    If I use two disconnects, this how I'd do it. I might would put disconnects on POS (+) sides though, would work as well either way
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  3. #3
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    Most two battery set ups have an isolator in between the battery's. This way if one battery 86's it won't take the other one with it......
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  4. #4
    1250+ Posts CrystalPistol's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    Most two battery set ups have an isolator in between the battery's. This way if one battery 86's it won't take the other one with it......
    I know, but I'd just have it in place in case needed, and wired so I can charge it as I ride. I would not be leaving it connected … hence the disconnect.
    Make Courtesy Your "Code of the Road" too!

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    Default

    I think you need one of those switches they use in boats and RVs. So you can use one battery or the other not both at the same time. I think the batteries have to charge separately because they're unbalanced?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidecarbill View Post
    I think you need one of those switches they use in boats and RVs. So you can use one battery or the other not both at the same time. I think the batteries have to charge separately because they're unbalanced?
    It’s a A-B switch.
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  7. #7
    1250+ Posts CrystalPistol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1dn5up View Post
    It’s a A-B switch.
    And I looked at some, but decided to leave OEM wiring in place. If I use two disconnects as described, I can easily enough choose a battery to run on … like if I want to run off the battery in trunk, just "connect" it with a twist of knob, then I can "disconnect" the trike's main battery at will with another twist of the other knob. If by chance I have a low battery at start up, I can use both, just as if jumping.

    It would be a shame to awaken at a motel in another state to find the trike's battery is flat and wish I had the other one that I left at home on the shelf.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
    And I looked at some, but decided to leave OEM wiring in place. If I use two disconnects as described, I can easily enough choose a battery to run on … like if I want to run off the battery in trunk, just "connect" it with a twist of knob, then I can "disconnect" the trike's main battery at will with another twist of the other knob. If by chance I have a low battery at start up, I can use both, just as if jumping.

    It would be a shame to awaken at a motel in another state to find the trike's battery is flat and wish I had the other one that I left at home on the shelf.
    Sounds like a good idea. When you go to sell the trike at some point be sure to leave a note in the trunk as to what does what, how, and why... for the next owner. So many times people buy a vehicle that someone has customized like this and have no clue as to what is going on with all the reconfiguring.
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  9. #9
    1250+ Posts CrystalPistol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paws View Post
    Sounds like a good idea. When you go to sell the trike at some point … etc …
    I hear you, I hope that when that day arrives, I'll have used these two batteries up and returned it to stock with just the one battery. Easier to sell not getting into details not otherwise needed. To the novice, a trike with two batteries might indicate a problem with but one, might sour a deal? I agree, if modified … it is good to "lay it all out" for a new owner. I went through that with the 1200 explaining details I added over my 24 years of owning it. I even gave new owner a DVD with a copy of all my files pertaining to mods, tips, etc . … but nothing personal.
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  10. #10
    13000+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    My only thought wold be that you'll be taking away lots of truck space.

  11. #11
    1250+ Posts CrystalPistol's Avatar
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    Not really so much.

    The PC680 is only about 3" thick X 7-1/8" long X 6-3/4" high, and I would be securing it against the front wall of the lower trunk, away from the door, it is space that never sees much use anyway. I looked at mounting it on it's side up against the trunk's top inside and even looked underneath the trike, but I want it to be more accessible. I'd also cover it with a piece of sheet rubber like cut from innertube. It's a sealed AGM so there are no leaks.

    I didn't want to add more holes than necessary, so I'm securing it to that "lock box" I made and installed some 10 or 12 years ago. I already had mounted that box to trunk floor with 1/4-20 screws & Nyloc nuts from below.
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  12. #12
    1250+ Posts CrystalPistol's Avatar
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    Default

    Well, I finished it. Works great as intended. I put a "disconnect device" on both battery's negative terminal. I tied the red positive cable into the trike's circuits by piggy backing on the main battery's POS. terminal, like a jump would do. The extra NEG cable went through trunk floor to be bolted to the trike frame for good ground. I used solder on lugs that I made of 5/16" copper tubing and 4 ga. wire I had on hand. I can chose which battery to use at will and I will have a spare on deck as backup as long as I keep it charged.

    I did modify my "disconnects" in the interest of durability. They are made of an alloy with a brass finish. They have a blue molded knob on a 5mm brass bolt OEM. I removed that knob, found the 5mm threads were shallow, so I rethreaded the hole to a 6mm thread (still clears hole) and brought a bolt in from back side and then I could thread a nut … or home made steel "knob" onto what looks like a stud to close / open the device or circuit. This one I mounted on battery under seat as it will almost always be in use.

    On the "extra" one in the trunk, I put a longer screw in through the threads from the front after spinning my self made steel knob all the way onto it, after threaded into device hole, backed it out about 1.5 turns and locked it in place using nut on backside. That way a spin of "knob" will disconnect circuit, but screw head prevents nut coming off.

    I also removed the screw where wires attach, tapped it to 6mm as well and put a bolt through from back side and use a nut to attach cables with lugs.

    Below is a revised drawing of the circuit I modded.
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