GL1500 GoldWing fork springs

[Jezz]

I have a 2000 GoldWing with 4.5 easy steer and OEM springs installed. The ride isn't very good. I was wondering if Progressive 1200 springs would help this. If so what size spacer should be used ? I do not want to put progressive 1500 springs in because the ride would be even worse. If this can be done do the forks have to be removed ?

Thanks for your help with this

[Marc H]

When mine had the progressives for the 1500 I was able to take them out and in without needing any kinf of compressor but it was a challenge.I think the 1200 spring are a bit stiffer on the low side so some sort of compressor or assistance might be needed.I have opinion of the 1200 springs compared to stock.I never had either.

[CrystalPistol]

My findings with a 6 degree kit, but I expect you'd see similar results with 4.5 degree kits. I went through this 10 or more years ago, still holds up.

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Progressive # 11-1112 is for Kawasaki KZ1200/1300 (and what I use in my 1500 trike with Champion 6 degree EZ-Steer) ....

20.75 " L <>1.19" OD <> 45/70 Lbs/In. rate

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Progressive # 11-1122 is for GL-1200 GoldWings (use of a 1/2" or 3/4" spacer is suggested when used in GL1500 based trikes with rake kits) ....

20.00 " L <>1.34" OD <> 45/70 Lbs/In. rate

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Progressive # 11-1152 is for GL-1500 GoldWings ....

20.50 " L <>1.35" OD <> 35/80 Lbs/In. rate

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http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/33600-Progressive-springs-for-front-forks?p=374899&posted=1#post374899 posted 07-21-16



Not wishing to reinvent a wheel, I'll just quote a write up of my own trip looking for a good ride with a GL1500 Trike with 6 degree rake kit. I wrote it in 2010 .... it's been another 6 years, it still holds true.

While you may hesitate to follow my lead ..... I'm telling you that these Progressive # 11-1112 springs intended for a Kawasaki are the BEST for same money for a GL-1500 based Trike with 6 degrees "rake kit".

Below is "how" I arrived at that conclusion and it still holds. I had read many accounts of guys finding that the Progressive springs intended for a 1200 rode better in a raked GL1500 trike front end when used with 3/4" spacers, that without the spacers the 11-1122s weren't long enough to keep the front up .... so that if you use the 11-1122 springs, they will need a spacer added to get the front up where it should be.

I will also tell you that with that 6 degrees added rake laying the tubes down you do NOT want the #11-1152. They are brutal in this application with rake kit.

Note also my Fork Oil choices. It's easy to change the oil as you experiment. I currently have straight 10 wgt Bel Ray Fork Oil in the forks.

Things happen for reasons.

In 2004 I purchased my already triked 97 GL1500 SE / Lehman trike, I knew this bike since purchased new in Oct '96, it was first '97 delivered in H-burg. Original owner triked it in '97. He was a Lehman installer, they rode it for years as he built others for folks.

It already had Progressive # 11-1152 as indicated by the receipts they kept in a book of all items for it. Complete with records and a trailer.

I had it a month before I ordered a Champion EZ Steer in 6 degree flavor, got one of the last before they stopped making the 6 degree one he said. Near $900 shipped, I installed Oct '04, reused the Progressive # 11-1152 springs as all I had on hand.

Rough ride and front end sagged. Look at spring rates above, see why? I do.

Couple years ago, tired of the beating, being a procrastinator too, I looked around and found a set of springs listed for a 1200 on Ebay, I ordered them, as number sounded familiar to what I was looking for 11-1122. Got them, slipped them in in place, WOW!, it was wonderful. They fit a little loose in the bore, squeaked at first, but oh ... What a Ride they gave!

Looking later on box I see they were really Progressive # 11-1112 springs, not the 11-1122 springs I thought I ordered.

The squeak went away first ride.

Speed forward, I keep eyes open on Ebay, one day picked up a set of the 11-1122 springs for a GL-1200 cheap, new in box. I get them and put on a shelf.

March 20th, we take a ride over to the Maple Festival, great trip, fun ride. That evening or the next, while cleaning the trike I decided to slip the recently aquired 11-1122 springs in place and removed the 11-1112 springs. I made up 5/8 spacers and that with the shorter 11-1122 springs held the front up near top of stroke at rest. These are the springs Progressive sells for the GL-1200 and the OD is very nearly the same as stock 1500 springs.

Took several rides since, still a comfortable ride, 10X better than those 11-1152 springs originally in it, and front set up ... but memory told me the "wrong" 11-1112 springs rode better, swallowed bumps better, and held the front up as well as the 11-1122 springs with spacers ... even without spacers.

Saturday we had a near 250 mile ride planned, we went.

Saturday night as cleaned it up from what was a dusty ride, I decided to slip the "wrong" 11-1112 springs back in. It's really easy now, can do it in 30 minutes.

Jack under front of motor and set on wooden blocks.

Remove schrader valve and drop 5" long smooth 1/4 bolt or spike with head so it won't drop through ... in hole to keep spring end under the fork extension as / when loosened, just loosen top clamp and bring out cap & tube extension as one unit (I have fork tubes mounted so about 1/8" of top extension protrudes above top clamp so that top of original fork tube is inside bottom of triple tree ... so now the top clamp helps align the cap & tube extension with fork tube as I stand over with speed wrench and chest board I made up). Remove springs one at a time, I wipe new springs with fork oil and insert, put back together.

Sunday, we take another 268 mile trip.

Yep. memory was right, these Progressive # 11-1112 for Kawasaki KZ1200/1300 will now remain in my GL1500's 6 degree raked front fork tubes from here on out.

I might play with fork oil weights, have a 50/50 mix of 7 and 10 wgt BelRay Fork Oil in it now, about 8.5 weight, 350 CC each. 325 CC is enough though.

The 1122s were good, and if not for a mistake I'd be using them and not know any better ... but for a mistake in reading a number on my part and the shippers (the listing showed 11-1122, the numbers on the box so simular upon receipt that I just didn't notice, and the length looked right!). These 11-1112s work bumps and bridge joints and ripples and etc ... even better.

The 11-1112s will stay in our Trike.

[CrystalPistol]

I swapped them, never taking the forks off. On mine, the fork extensions are at top of tubes within the top triple tree. I adjusted my steel fork tubes so that the top 1/8 inch is also within the top triple tree. Before removing stuff, make sure the front of the trike is supported under the engine with blocking, or etc. I loosen top pinch bolts, then simply back out the fork caps & extensions which are holding the springs in. I do this with a 1/2" drive speed wrench (looks like a crank) with correct socket. T^he speed wrench has a handle on top or user end that rotates. I have a 24" long 2x4 with a recess in center that I place on top of this rotating handle, then I brace my torso against the 2x4 as I stand on rear floorboards, my weight controls the spring as I unwind the extension. Being as they are in the top triple tree, it helps align the fork extension threads.

[Jezz]

Mark H and CrystalPistol =Thanks for the reply and the information.

Mark= What springs are you using in your forks now?

Again thanks for your help

[Marc H]

Racetech I think .95 I would have to look at the box.7 inch spacer.I was going stock if that didn't smooth it enough Or the Progressive Crystalpistol suggested.