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Thread: Raising CSC rear end

  1. #1
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    Default Raising CSC rear end

    Is it possible to raise the rear of CSC. Does anyone know how?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    1250+ Posts CrystalPistol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rory View Post
    Is it possible to raise the rear of CSC. Does anyone know how?

    Thanks in advance!
    Do you mean to jack it up or what.

    Is it IRS or SA?
    Make Courtesy Your "Code of the Road" too!

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    Default

    Rory,

    If you contact the CSC Customer Service Department and request technical support, they will gladly guide you through the proper steps necessary to correctly place a jack in order lift the rear end of a CSC trike kit.

    There are specific lifting points that you need to understand before lifting the trike.


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    Quote Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
    Do you mean to jack it up or what.

    Is it IRS or SA?
    I need to raise the rear end to load it in my toy hauler.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rory View Post
    I need to raise the rear end to load it in my toy hauler.
    You can use boards for the back tires to run on to keep the tailpipes from dragging at the bottom of the ramp and at the top to keep the trike from bottoming out over the ledge going into the hauler.
    "I don't need a map. I still have a road in front of me!"

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    [QUOTE=ol' school;709108]You can use boards for the back tires to run on to keep the tailpipes from dragging at the bottom of the ramp and at the top to keep the trike from bottoming out over the ledge going into the hauler.[/QUO

    Guess that what I'm going to try. Went to a CSC dealer and was told that it is an 8 hours process to raise the rear. I'll go with the ramps. Thank you for the reply.

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    Default Dragging pipes solutions

    I had a triple axle, 46 ft. raptor toy hauler for 5 years.

    My 06 Wing, CSC conversion, 3 1/2 in. Ground clearance. Big problem scrapping pipes.

    I immediately made 3 ramps about 4 ft. Long. 2 x 6 s.

    I put door hinges on each ramp, and other half bolted inside right thru rear door.

    Then I lighly grounded the 3 hinge pins. This to go in and out easily by hand.

    From drop of tail gate to load or unload about 10 mins after no tie downs.

    Very easy and quick. I strapped the ramps behind trike with tie downs.

    Also: I even dragged skid plate at hinge point of door. I screwed together a couple 2 x 4 s,

    Used them under door pads, for better angle.

    Putting on lift kit is going to mess with performance. Might have to also change triple tree to steeper angle, keeping most weight on rear 2 tires instead of one front tire.

    Safe riding.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Railroad Triker View Post
    I had a triple axle, 46 ft. raptor toy hauler for 5 years.

    My 06 Wing, CSC conversion, 3 1/2 in. Ground clearance. Big problem scrapping pipes.

    I immediately made 3 ramps about 4 ft. Long. 2 x 6 s.

    I put door hinges on each ramp, and other half bolted inside right thru rear door.

    Then I lighly grounded the 3 hinge pins. This to go in and out easily by hand.

    From drop of tail gate to load or unload about 10 mins after no tie downs.

    Very easy and quick. I strapped the ramps behind trike with tie downs.

    Also: I even dragged skid plate at hinge point of door. I screwed together a couple 2 x 4 s,

    Used them under door pads, for better angle.

    Putting on lift kit is going to mess with performance. Might have to also change triple tree to steeper angle, keeping most weight on rear 2 tires instead of one front tire.

    Safe riding.
    George, thanks for chiming in. That is exactly what I was trying to tell Rory. I only needed two board ramps to raise the back of our CSC trike to get on and off our trailer without scraping tailpipes. But then we are trailering with an Aluma 7712H tilt trailer.
    "I don't need a map. I still have a road in front of me!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Railroad Triker View Post
    I had a triple axle, 46 ft. raptor toy hauler for 5 years.

    My 06 Wing, CSC conversion, 3 1/2 in. Ground clearance. Big problem scrapping pipes.

    I immediately made 3 ramps about 4 ft. Long. 2 x 6 s.

    I put door hinges on each ramp, and other half bolted inside right thru rear door.

    Then I lighly grounded the 3 hinge pins. This to go in and out easily by hand.

    From drop of tail gate to load or unload about 10 mins after no tie downs.

    Very easy and quick. I strapped the ramps behind trike with tie downs.

    Also: I even dragged skid plate at hinge point of door. I screwed together a couple 2 x 4 s,

    Used them under door pads, for better angle.

    Putting on lift kit is going to mess with performance. Might have to also change triple tree to steeper angle, keeping most weight on rear 2 tires instead of one front tire.

    Safe riding.
    I don't have an issue with pipes. The problem is at the ramp connection. Thanks for your help.

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    Default Another idea

    I have used the trailer tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer a ways while still hooked to the tow vehicle - doing so raised the front of the trailer and lowered the tail which resulted in a flatter angle at the ramp hinge point. This allowed the tail pipes to clear ground and the trike to clear at the hinge point. The only downside is that you end up parking the bike in an uphill situation until the jack has been removed from the situation. I usually just run it in and have someone lower the nose or if alone, park in gear, attach a tie down, then lower the nose before final security. Works for me. Your mileage may vary. Ha.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Underdogmc1 View Post
    I have used the trailer tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer a ways while still hooked to the tow vehicle - doing so raised the front of the trailer and lowered the tail which resulted in a flatter angle at the ramp hinge point. This allowed the tail pipes to clear ground and the trike to clear at the hinge point. The only downside is that you end up parking the bike in an uphill situation until the jack has been removed from the situation. I usually just run it in and have someone lower the nose or if alone, park in gear, attach a tie down, then lower the nose before final security. Works for me. Your mileage may vary. Ha.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Underdogmc1 View Post
    I have used the trailer tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer a ways while still hooked to the tow vehicle - doing so raised the front of the trailer and lowered the tail which resulted in a flatter angle at the ramp hinge point. This allowed the tail pipes to clear ground and the trike to clear at the hinge point. The only downside is that you end up parking the bike in an uphill situation until the jack has been removed from the situation. I usually just run it in and have someone lower the nose or if alone, park in gear, attach a tie down, then lower the nose before final security. Works for me. Your mileage may vary. Ha.
    When I bought my '85 1200 in 1995, I took a day to go get it across state, pulled a utility trailer I had built from a F-150 rear frame, etc. I had a hand winch up front that I rigged to also raise the front of the trailer while hooked up to tow vehicle, worked to haul my mower, etc. Got to the guy's home, looked at bike, bought it, guy said "sure" when I asked if he would help load. That trailer bed was like 30 degrees up hill, he sat on the bike holding the brake and just killed it in 1st, eyeballs looked like golf balls … until I lowered the front of the trailer. He was a great sport.

    A buddy was loading his trike on a trailer … bottom of engine/trans hit at breakover point on his trailer, cracked case, but insurance co. covered him, bought & swapped in another engine/trans. Was like $6,000 I think.
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