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Thread: R C Compnents Xcelerator

  1. #1
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    Unhappy R C Compnents Xcelerator

    Trying to find a RC Components X Celerator for my 2012 Tri-Glide. Need part number RCXCL240B. Does anyone know where I can find this cheaper than $445? I would appreciate it. I have been looking all over the web and have not found very many that even have them. Nothing at all under $400.

    Thanks

    Rick

  2. #2
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    Default Not Much.

    Welcome to the forum. It is a little slow in here right now but maybe someone will respond. About all I could fine online was from the link below. It shows it will work with the 2012 FLHTCU, doesn't show TGU, but the PN ends in A not B. It is $405.00 with free shipping. Gives location as Tennessee. It does show that it fits a 2013 TGU though.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Componen...8AAOSw6SNd4uY~
    16 TGU Mysterious Red / Velocity Red. FM Ceramic Head pipe and FM E-Series tunable exhaust. PV Target Tune-AT WB Tuner. DK Outlaw 606 AC with EBS, Ward’s FCS fans. DK Custom Oil filter/Cooler relocation kit, Comfort Lift and 14 inch shocks. DK tank lift, wind deflectors, floorboard extenders, and tour pak relocator. Chrome TGU wheels. Bad Ass Lights tail lights. Lighted controls and Krome Works 2+2 narrow handle bars.

  3. #3
    150+ Posts Colleydog's Avatar
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    Default

    What is the benefit of xcelerator over fuel pack or power vision?
    2018 115 anniversary Tri glide, 2 +2 narrow sweepers, DK comfort lift, DK tour pack relocation kit, pro action shocks, power vision, fuel moto air cleaner, s and s mufflers

  4. #4
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    Default

    Personally I would go with power vision or Fuelpak and get it from fuel moto or DK who is a sponsor on here, I had a power vision on my 2016 triglide from fuel moto, the map they sent already installed was very good, I was happy, I let it go with the bike when I sold it, regret that now.

    All for now Trampas

  5. #5
    13500+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Default

    +1 on the Power Vision

    Welcome to the gang from Western Colorado.

  6. DKCustoms postbit
  7. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MDF48 View Post
    Welcome to the forum. It is a little slow in here right now but maybe someone will respond. About all I could fine online was from the link below. It shows it will work with the 2012 FLHTCU, doesn't show TGU, but the PN ends in A not B. It is $405.00 with free shipping. Gives location as Tennessee. It does show that it fits a 2013 TGU though.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Componen...8AAOSw6SNd4uY~
    the 13 and the 12 are identical. the only big thing for the 13 was the anniversary model
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

  8. #7
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    Default O2 Sensors reading rich

    Hello all,

    My 2012 Tri has been dying on me. When I check the codes it says P0132 and P0152 which tells me O2 Sensors are running rich. (High Voltage) When it dies it says EIP on the odometer screen. Any ideas?

    Recent upgrades are RC Xcelerator tuner. Ran fine for about 200 miles when I put it on. Put a new chrome voltage regulator in last week. I noticed the voltage is running a little higher than before from this upgrade. I do not think it should affect the O2 sensors though.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks Rick

  9. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by railrunnerrick View Post
    Hello all,

    My 2012 Tri has been dying on me. When I check the codes it says P0132 and P0152 which tells me O2 Sensors are running rich. (High Voltage) When it dies it says EIP on the odometer screen. Any ideas?

    Recent upgrades are RC Xcelerator tuner. Ran fine for about 200 miles when I put it on. Put a new chrome voltage regulator in last week. I noticed the voltage is running a little higher than before from this upgrade. I do not think it should affect the O2 sensors though.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks Rick
    The codes you see are front and rear O2 sensors codes, You may be running TOO much fuel with your tuner. How does it run with the tuner not hooked up? Try it. You will want to check your voltage concern with a good meter @ the battery. H D gauges have been long known for not being reliable, Good Luck and check back in
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  10. #9
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    Default Bank angle sensor

    Found out it is the bank angle sensor. Everything points to this. Bike dies when it is plugged in. Start then dies immediately. Unplug it and bike runs fine. Since then we have installed a new bank angle sensor an it has the same problem. Even Harley cannot figure it out. Any ideas?

    Thanks

    Rick

  11. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by railrunnerrick View Post
    Found out it is the bank angle sensor. Everything points to this. Bike dies when it is plugged in. Start then dies immediately. Unplug it and bike runs fine. Since then we have installed a new bank angle sensor an it has the same problem. Even Harley cannot figure it out. Any ideas?

    Thanks

    Rick
    It is unlikely, but these things do happen...the second bank angle sensor could be bad. Find a TG (or other bike) with the same bank angle sensor and plug it in and see how it works. That way you know if it is the sensor, or if it something upline that the sensor is sending a signal to.

    Unfortunately, these kind of things are just a matter of going thru the process of elimination to find the culprit.

    Kevin
    www.DKCustom.com
    Call: 662-252-8828 Text: 662-420-4891
    Email: Support@DKCustomProducts.com


  12. #11
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    Default

    Have you run the diagnostics again to confirm the BAS is bad? It should throw that code

    The EIP you see probably is TIP, this would point to the BAS. Have you recently hit a large bump?

    Have you tried clearing the codes? look here

    Accessing & Clearing Harley Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's)

    Get Into DTC Viewing Mode:



    Instructions for Pre 2014 Harley Models:

    Get Into DTC Viewing Mode:



    1. Press and hold the odometer button in (can be located in different positions depending on your model/year)
    2. While holding odometer button in, turn ignition to “on” position

      1. Keep holding the odometer button in until you see “diAG” appear in the odometer window

        1. Release the odometer button and you are in the DTC viewing mode








    Viewing and clearing DTC's: (Clear codes at your own risk)(Make sure you know what you are doing or consult a Harley mechanic)



    1. Press & release the odometer button to enter the DTC mode module
    2. Press & release the odometer button to cycle through the different modules

      1. To check any module press & hold the odometer button until it enters

        1. If it says “none” then that module has no DTC's

          1. If it says “yes” then press & release the odometer button to get the DTC
          2. You will also have an option to “clear” the code



        2. Press & release the odometer button again and it cycles to the HD part number for that module
        3. Press & release the odometer button and it cycles back to the main module

          1. Continue as stated above to continue to check each module for DTC's









    3. Turn ignition off to exit DTC mode
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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