Question for Lee Mann, drive axle replacement parts?

[Lee H. Mann]

The only wear issues the Lehman has is periodic brake adjustment and keep the u-joint greased.

Keep clean brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4) in the system and watch for rear pinion seal, axle or rear cover leaks.

Brakes should last 60-80,000 miles with regular use.

[Scott1]

I got a new differential gasket and put a bead of Permatex Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone around the differential cover, put LocTite (blue) on each of the 8 bolts and installed the gasket, cover and bolts hand tight. After 1 hour, I torqued the 8 bolts to 20 ft-lbs, than waited 24 hours for the silicone to setup. I got 2 quarts of Mobil 1, 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube and pumped in 52 ounces to fill the differential, so the fluid is level with the fill hole. When spring comes I'll put on 100 miles then check the fluid level. I will recheck the fluid level at every oil change and the new differential fluid should be good for the next 50,000 miles. Always check the pinion seal, differential gasket, and each axle seal for leakage every oil change. Project done, ride safe. Greg

[Lee H. Mann]

I got a new differential gasket and put a bead of Permatex Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone around the differential cover, put LocTite (blue) on each of the 8 bolts and installed the gasket, cover and bolts hand tight. After 1 hour, I torqued the 8 bolts to 20 ft-lbs, than waited 24 hours for the silicone to setup. I got 2 quarts of Mobil 1, 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube and pumped in 52 ounces to fill the differential, so the fluid is level with the fill hole. When spring comes I'll put on 100 miles then check the fluid level. I will recheck the fluid level at every oil change and the new differential fluid should be good for the next 50,000 miles. Always check the pinion seal, differential gasket, and each axle seal for leakage every oil change. Project done, ride safe. Greg

You might want to remove 10oz of gear oil.

I think the max is 42oz.

I usually do 36oz.

[Scott1]

You might want to remove 10oz of gear oil.

I think the max is 42oz.

I usually do 36oz.

When I looked at the fill plug on the differential case, I decided to fill the differential until the fluid dripped out the fill hole (52 oz.). The axle tube needs to have enough gear oil depth to run down to the end of each axle to lube the axle bearings and pinion bearing. But not too full to put pressure on the axle and pinion seals which may damage them. I think the fill hole was placed at this point, so that there is enough gear oil to fill the axle tubes and still have room for thermal expansion.

If you measure from the bottom of the oil fill hole, to the bottom of the axle tube, it measures about 3/4". The axle tube measurers about 2-1/2" in diameter. The fluid level inside the axle tube would be about 5/8" deep, leaving about 1-3/4" of space above the gear oil inside the axle tube. I also measured the pinion shaft at the yoke and the fluid level comes to about the center of the pinion shaft. With about 1-3/4" space above the gear oil level inside the axle tube and where the fluid level is inside the rear of the differential housing cover, the amount of room for thermal expansion should be more than enough. If not, the gear oil will come out the breather cap that is on top of the axle tube. With the breather, the axle and pinion bearing seals should be just fine and no pressure should build up on the oil seals.

In a earlier post, (#5), you stated to fill the differential gear oil to 3/4" below the oil fill hole. At that level, the gear oil is only at the very bottom of the axle tube, if my measurements are correct. If you only fill the differential with 36-42 oz. of gear oil, you may not have enough gear oil depth for the gear oil to run down the axle tube and properly lube the axle bearings and pinion bearing. There isn't a gear oil pump or dipstick for the differential, so you need enough gear oil depth to reach the end of the axle tube. There are many instruction articles that say to fill the differential until the gear oil drips out the fill hole, drive 10 miles and recheck the fluid level after cool down. Add more gear oil if needed.

This is just my opinion and I am far from being any type of an expert, I go by common sense. If I am wrong by filling the differential to this level, the only problem would be gear oil coming out the breather and at that point, I would lower the fluid level in differential . *Above measurements are only approximate due to configuration and available measuring space.

Greg

[Lee H. Mann]

Greg,

Your conclusion is wrong.

The axle bearings are sealed bearings and there is a seal between the differential and the bearing.

By overfilling the rear and allowing the gear lube to sit in the axle tube, it can cause premature seal failure as well as axle bearing failure.

Drain 10oz or so.

[CrystalPistol]

Greg,

Your conclusion is wrong.

The axle bearings are sealed bearings and there is a seal between the differential and the bearing.

By overfilling the rear and allowing the gear lube to sit in the axle tube, it can cause premature seal failure as well as axle bearing failure.

Drain 10oz or so.

Yep.

The 6.75" axle's wheel end bearings are sealed, they use a press fit & collar to retain the axles, differential/gear lube seal is just inside the bearing towards the differential. The bearing is a sealed pre-lubricated with grease type bearing with it's own inner & outer race. Looking at parts histories, that bearing number was used by Ford as early as 1948 in the F series pickups (maybe further?). That same bearing (in the movie "Thunder Road", the '50 Ford Mitchum drove … it even had those same bearings) services many Fords through the '50s, '60s, even into the '70s & '80s … but not those with the heavier 9 inch rears (same type, but bigger bearings).

It's the later 7.5" and 8.8" Ford rears that use C clips in the differential to secure axles which rode directly on the rollers of bearings in the wheel end of axle tube, they have a seal on the outside of the bearing.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...643&cc=1135268

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Was reading back, looking for something I wrote in an earlier post someplace that just didn't "sit right" with me. I found it here:

… etc …

Biggest danger to anything I think is danger of axle seal leak going un-noticed leading to low lube level leading to bad axle bearing and then miles eating up an axle itself. Not real likely as the bearing has it's own inner race though, unless not noticed for a long ways.

… etc …

I should have said >>> "Biggest danger to anything I think is danger of axle seal leak going un-noticed leading to low lube level in the differential" <<< and just stopped there with that thought. It was in this thread awhile back, so I include it here … I can't edit that post now.

I was also conversing with another member about differences between the 6.75 and the 7.5 (his) and there was a question mentioning fill level, but his axle is upside down in a Valkyrie Trike, so maybe that's where I got side tracked or de-railed? Anyway, it was bothering me, I knew I mis-typed somewhere, but was not sure where until now. Now? … now I'm at peace.

[Scott1]

Greg,

Your conclusion is wrong.

The axle bearings are sealed bearings and there is a seal between the differential and the bearing.

By overfilling the rear and allowing the gear lube to sit in the axle tube, it can cause premature seal failure as well as axle bearing failure.

Drain 10oz or so.

I will remove 10 oz. of gear oil. I thought the gear oil had to lube the axle bearing.

Ok, I'm learning and trying to figure out how things work. Sometimes reading on the Net. will lead you down the wrong way.

I found a exploded view of the axle for a Ford Mustang II with a square differential cover that shows where the axle shaft seal is located.

http://www.mustangii.org/decoder/axle/

It would be a great thing if Lehman would have a service manual that explained how to service the trike kit.

Thanks Jim for the correct information.

Greg

[CrystalPistol]

I found a exploded view of the axle for a Ford Mustang II with a square differential cover that shows where the axle shaft seal is located.

http://www.mustangii.org/decoder/axle/

You posted a better picture in your post #4.

Hi Jim,Diff Parts Diagram.pdf and Drum brake part info.pdf Greg

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… etc …

It would be a great thing if Lehman would have a service manual that explained how to service the trike kit.

Thanks Jim for the correct information.

Greg

They did, several, install manuals too … when new models or changes came out.

[Scott1]

They did, several, install manuals too … when new models or changes came out.

Ok, where can I get a manual and any updates?

I have a 1999 Valkyrie Interstate with a 2002 Predator Kit with a solid axle and shaft drive. The manual that came with the trike kit had very little information. What I received as a manual. http://www.lehmantrikes.com/assets/d...nualonline.pdf

No Lehman dealers in Pittsburgh, PA.

My first attempt at having my Valkyrie made into a trike. I went to the local Harley shop 10 miles from my home. He was on the Lehman dealer list. I talked to the trike salesman about triking my Valkyrie. He told me that they were a Harley dealer and do not work on Honda motorcycles. But I ask, you are a Lehman trike installer and the said yes, but we don’t work on Honda motorcycles. Then I said, you don’t want my money and he just looked at me and said it’s not a Harley and walked away. 6 years later they went out of business.

Next, I called a shop called JT’s A Cut Above and talked to Jim the owner, his shop was about 50 miles from home. I drove out to his shop and he said he would be glad to do my conversion. He said I don’t sell motorcycles, but he did many different trike conversions and asked me what I wanted converted to a trike. When I told him that I had a Valkyrie, he said I can do that and took me out back where he had a Valkyrie with a Motor Trike kit installed.I told him I wanted a Lehman trike kit and he said he just got back from Lehman and was factory trained. He than told me the kit takes about 6 weeks to come in from Lehman and we went over exactly what I wanted, which options, and price. I cut him a check.

Jim closed his shop in 2005, going through a divorce and moved everything to his barn 2 miles from the shop. He was building trikes there until he passed away 1-1/2 years later.

[CrystalPistol]

It's a pretty cool looking trike you have.

Where to get manuals now is a good question. I don't know where to get them now, or even if you can get them now. "Lee H Mann" (aka: Jim Murphy) is a huge source of information, he keeps good historical records too I think, not too far from you, be worth a visit (I want to do so one of these days myself ... Martinsburg, WVa. ain't too far IMHO … just 138 miles on my side … and a nice day ride down old US40 from you ... & spring is coming fast). It's obvious to me that the mechanicals are pretty much the same, brakes, rear axle, swing arm, driveshaft, U-joints … the trike parts … between my GL1500 GTL trike and your Valkyrie trike. Body parts differ, some details like that ... but you already found pages about brakes & rear axle parts.

[Lee H. Mann]

https://mjtrikes.com/index.php/information/

[Scott1]

It's a pretty cool looking trike you have.

Repair of my Valkyrie Trike

Honda 1999 Valkyrie Interstate with a 2002 Lehman Predator Kit, solid axle, shaft drive, drum brakes.

I have been working over the winter months restoring my 1999 Valkyrie Trike. 10 years ago (2009), the engine 1520cc, in my Valkyrie Trike suffered a hydro-lock fuel cylinder problem, (common Valkyrie problem) a fuel leak into one or more cylinders, which when I attempted to start the engine, the starter motor broke off a tooth on the intermediate gear between the starter and the starter/clutch gear. I have never done any internal engine work and now I had to remove the 260-pound engine to repair the broken gear. In 2009 an independent Honda mechanic wanted $2000 plus parts to repair the engine and he would only work on it when he had free time. He said 3 to 6 months to fix it. It was riding season, so I parked the Valkyrie and purchased a new left-over 2008 Goldwing (level 3) with a 2009 Motor Trike kit.



Now 10 years later I got out the Honda shop manual, put the Valkyrie on my trike lift and started to remove the engine. I drained the antifreeze and oil, I then removed the seat, fuel tank, air box, radiator pods, radiator hoses, radiator, thermostat, battery, exhaust, starter, alternator, spark plug wires, clutch line, throttle cables, choke cable, and drive shaft. Next, I remove the engine (260 Lbs.), 6 carbonators, the clutch case, then the clutch. Next came the back-engine case and now I could see the broken gear. I was told that I had to replace the gears on each side of the broken gear, because they could have been damaged by the broken gear. To remove the gears on each side of the broken gear, I had to grind out the 3 locking nuts that were staked into the 3 different shafts that held each gear in place. To work on the engine, I needed to purchase all the special Honda tools listed in the shop manual. Oh, I did find the broken tooth in the bottom of the engine case.

Time to get the new engine parts and start replacing the 3 gears. New parts were clutch gear, intermediate gear, starter gear, shaft lock nuts, seals and gaskets. After I replaced the gears and torqued the lock nuts, I reassembled the engine and then installed it and reassembled everything that I had to remove to get the engine out.

Next, I had to fix the cause of the hydro-lock problem. I disassembled and rebuilt all 6 carburetors (every part that could be replaced including the fuel rails), replaced (all new parts) radiator hoses, thermostat, all vacuum hoses, fuel line, spark plugs, added a fuel filter and an electric fuel shutoff valve, a K&N air filter, vacuum fuel petcock, cleaned the rust and dirt from inside the fuel tank and seal coated the inside of the fuel tank, then I removed the Smog System Piping and installed the 6 rebuilt carburetors.

I installed all new stainless-steel braided brake lines and clutch line, added dot 4 brake fluid, new antifreeze, oil & filter, drained and filled the rear differential fluid, adjusted the rear drum brakes, rebuilt the front brake calipers, replaced the front disk brake pads. Cleaned the headlight/turn signal switches, added a USB charge port, replaced the battery, added a second fuse block, a second battery in the trunk with an automatic battery isolator, 3 led light kits (276 leds total), and added some new safety chrome.

I started the engine and had to balance (sync) the 6 carburetors. It’s winter here in Pittsburgh and could only get the carburetors close to where they needed to be balanced. Will finish this in the spring when it gets warm.

I still have to put the rear wheels on and clean and polish everything. The best part is that the engine started and runs.



Bike on my lift, jacked up and engine removed.

With what I replaced I should have "almost" a new bike.

Greg

[CrystalPistol]

Lotta work …

The best part is that the engine started and runs.

Always.

[Scott1]

Lotta work … Always.

I'm doing the final assembly, cleaning and polishing everything. Very time consuming.

Even using my trike lift and working as much as possible standing straight up, I can only work 4-5 hours a day, because of my back after having 3 surgeries over the last 10 years.

Greg

[CrystalPistol]

I haven't had back surgery, but other stuff. Understand the 4-5 hours maximum. Sorry to read that, I have a buddy never got over back surgery, he said he wished he'd never done it, but I wonder then where would he be now?

Just a thought ... Something I find helpful is a roller mounted computer gaming chair, great for a break from standing & back hurting, concrete floors can do that without one having had surgery. I also like my rubber kitchen matting bought off roll at Lowe's.

Take Care …