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Results 21 to 40 of 53

Thread: Wheel Bearing / Caliper drag ??

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragon View Post
    good morning. in a previous thread you said your brake pedal would not come back up, did you figure out what that problem was. I would change the clips and spring washers, there is a lot of heat buildup in this area and the spring washers loose there springness and then the pin rattles around and falls out over time, also lets the rotor wabble back an forth. the pedal not coming back up happened to me on a ride last fall stopped at a light and pedal just stuck down, brakes were all locked up. was able to pull up pedal and limp home. ended up being master cylinder.

    good luck

    dragon
    Thanks, I will look at that today. I hope I can get a replacement spacer and hex head bolt that was missing.
    # 796

  2. #22
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    After taking the hub apart I found a hub seal only on one side. Shouldn't there be one for both sides?
    # 796

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    After taking the hub apart I found a hub seal only on one side. Shouldn't there be one for both sides?
    yes on both sides. it is hard to get the axle through the 2 which is why it was probably left out.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    After taking the hub apart I found a hub seal only on one side. Shouldn't there be one for both sides?
    To make insertion of the axle easier, I had a piece of stock machined the size of the axle, and the length the thickness of the wheel and hubs. It is easy to insert the dummy axle, then when the wheel is in place just take the axle and push it through. A piece of wood dowel would probably work also.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikervet View Post
    To make insertion of the axle easier, I had a piece of stock machined the size of the axle, and the length the thickness of the wheel and hubs. It is easy to insert the dummy axle, then when the wheel is in place just take the axle and push it through. A piece of wood dowel would probably work also.
    When you remove the axle, just slightly bevel the outer edge on one or other ends so it is not being forced thru and you will never have that issue again. I have posted this years ago. Tomg

  6. #26
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    Thanks to both who replied.
    # 796

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    Hi, can someone tell me where can I get the outer seal for the hub? I bought one from the auto part store but the axle will not pass thru. OOpppsss, just found it at Amazon.
    # 796

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    Hi, can someone tell me where can I get the outer seal for the hub? I bought one from the auto part store but the axle will not pass thru. OOpppsss, just found it at Amazon.
    I had to trouble getting all my seals from NAPA part #s on my post on this repair.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    the inner seal I have had to wait a week to get one, the outer seal usually have it, if not overnight.

    Dragon

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla View Post
    I had to trouble getting all my seals from NAPA part #s on my post on this repair.
    NAPA wanted $23.00 to ship the seal to there store.
    # 796

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    o'reily wanted 8 dollars for shipping

    Dragon

  12. #32
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    HELP! lol, I have the new seals but I still can not get the axle thru them, what's up with that??
    # 796

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    HELP! lol, I have the new seals but I still can not get the axle thru them, what's up with that??


    Did you try poking the axle through with the wheel off the bike just to see if it would go?? Too late now, but if you had ran the seals down over the axle before installing them then you could rule out "seals wrong size." Just a thought.

  14. #34
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    A couple of years ago I purchased my bearings and seals for Locate ball bearings and the seals were about $3 each. They either shipped for LA or Chicago. Received in a few days.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikervet View Post
    Did you try poking the axle through with the wheel off the bike just to see if it would go?? Too late now, but if you had ran the seals down over the axle before installing them then you could rule out "seals wrong size." Just a thought.
    I tried to get the axle to go thru the seal with the wheel off but no luck.
    # 796

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    This is the part number I have for the wheel bearing seals: 470625

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragon View Post
    Good morning

    I would follow along jacks advice but I would just take the wheel off and repack the tapered bearings with new seals (15 dollars each). I don't know how many miles you have. smell the grease from each bearing, if it smells burnt at all it needs to be changed. I am in the process of replacing these bearings and races right now. at least you will know if it is a bearing.

    Good luck

    Dragon
    Hey, what seals are you using and the part number? I have tried 3 different seals and the axle will not go thru and the seal just slide in the hub without much resistance. They all had id of 1.125.

    # 796

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikervet View Post
    This is the part number I have for the wheel bearing seals: 470625
    I found it, but can not get the id and od on them. Did you get any specs on them?
    # 796

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    There are quite a few listed on Ebay. You may find one that has the specs listed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    I found it, but can not get the id and od on them. Did you get any specs on them?
    I googled that number and the first two to come up had the specs listed.

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