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Thread: Wheel Bearing / Caliper drag ??

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    Default Wheel Bearing / Caliper drag ??

    Hello all, I'm hearing a strange noise from the front wheel area of my Stallion, it sound like when someone is rubbing their hands together . No squeal or grinding. Not very loud at about 10 to 20 mph but more as speed goes up. But as I stated earlier just rub your hands together in a fast motion and you will have the sound. The pads are like new and the wheel really don't have a lot of drag while rotating it off the ground. Any help will be appreciated.
    # 796

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    Hello all, I'm hearing a strange noise from the front wheel area of my Stallion, it sound like when someone is rubbing their hands together . No squeal or grinding. Not very loud at about 10 to 20 mph but more as speed goes up. But as I stated earlier just rub your hands together in a fast motion and you will have the sound. The pads are like new and the wheel really don't have a lot of drag while rotating it off the ground. Any help will be appreciated.
    Possibly the caliper mounting plate bearings? Was the wheel off before this noise started? If there is no brake drag when you go to spin the free wheel the bearings is what I would expect. look at the axle bearings next
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla View Post
    Possibly the caliper mounting plate bearings? Was the wheel off before this noise started? If there is no brake drag when you go to spin the free wheel the bearings is what I would expect. look at the axle bearings next
    My first thought was the brake pads, but they were like new. A few months later it got louder. Not sure what the caliper mounting plate bearing look like or located. I'm wondering if it's the axle need greasing.
    # 796

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    Jack the front up and support it , remove the caliper and support it, spin the wheel and listen for noise. Also as wheel is rotating put a free hand on front suspension, do you feel a vibration? This would be a bad bearing
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    Jack the front up and support it , remove the caliper and support it, spin the wheel and listen for noise. Also as wheel is rotating put a free hand on front suspension, do you feel a vibration? This would be a bad bearing
    Thanks, I will do that.
    # 796

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    Check your shock mount bushings. My rubber was bad. I had a slight wobble and noise. I replaced the shocks and everything is good now. Rick
    If you got to ride, ride in style
    Stallion #378
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    Good morning

    I would follow along jacks advice but I would just take the wheel off and repack the tapered bearings with new seals (15 dollars each). I don't know how many miles you have. smell the grease from each bearing, if it smells burnt at all it needs to be changed. I am in the process of replacing these bearings and races right now. at least you will know if it is a bearing.

    Good luck

    Dragon

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    Quote Originally Posted by rocket1lf View Post
    Check your shock mount bushings. My rubber was bad. I had a slight wobble and noise. I replaced the shocks and everything is good now. Rick
    Was it the same noise as I described?
    # 796

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    Was it the same noise as I described?
    Doesn't sound like it by your description. It was more of a rattle. Mine does have warped rotors and is does sound something like yours.
    If you got to ride, ride in style
    Stallion #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocket1lf View Post
    Doesn't sound like it by your description. It was more of a rattle. Mine does have warped rotors and is does sound something like yours.
    I'm hoping that's all it is. Have not started to work on it yet.
    # 796

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    I'm hoping that's all it is. Have not started to work on it yet.
    McArthur If it is the bearings there are a couple of posts in the stallion section that address this repair. Also where to purchase the bearings. Do not hesitate to ask TomG and I both have done this repair.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla View Post
    McArthur If it is the bearings there are a couple of posts in the stallion section that address this repair. Also where to purchase the bearings. Do not hesitate to ask TomG and I both have done this repair.
    Ok, thanks.
    # 796

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    1 Triker, a ways back you mentioned that you didn't know where the caliper mounting plate bearing is. Well, if you look at your from wheel from either side the black component between the fork and the wheel is the caliper mounting plate and you can see the exterior of the bearing held in by a snap ring. This is NOT your wheel bearing. The wheel bearing is much smaller and is located down inside that hub. The only way to see it is remove the wheel, and look down the axle shaft. Early on, there were a run of defective caliper plate bearings. Mine only had 1100 miles on it when one side went bad, TBMS sent me a whole set of new hubs, I changed them.

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    I noticed today that my brake pedal will not come up. I was just about to get started on this thing but had to leave but did notice that the rotors had lots of small grooves in it. I'm sure the pads were very good the last time I saw them about 6 months ago, I only put about 300 miles on it since then.
    # 796

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    I remove the wheel today and I'm pretty sure the problem is warpped rotors. I can turn the wheel and it will slow down or stop during rotation and have the same sound as I hear while riding.

    I read that Motor Trike in Troup, Tx was the only place to get rotors, is this still true?
    # 796

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    I remove the wheel today and I'm pretty sure the problem is warpped rotors. I can turn the wheel and it will slow down or stop during rotation and have the same sound as I hear while riding.

    I read that Motor Trike in Troup, Tx was the only place to get rotors, is this still true?
    yes thats true but they r reasonable
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Hi all, can someone tell me how to get the rotors out. I found that there was a missing spacer that goes between the hub and fork on one side. also had to take the wheel to a machine shop to remove one of the hex bolt that hold the caliper to the mount. So, now I need spacer and hex bolt.
    # 796

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 triker View Post
    Hi all, can someone tell me how to get the rotors out. I found that there was a missing spacer that goes between the hub and fork on one side. also had to take the wheel to a machine shop to remove one of the hex bolt that hold the caliper to the mount. So, now I need spacer and hex bolt.
    There are five bolts that attach both hubs to the wheel. The same five bolts go through a hub on one side, then through the wheel, then the hub on the other side. The head on these bolts is an allen head and I believe a 9/16" nut on the opposite side. After you remove the five bolts, then you can see how the rotors are attached to the hub. They are held on to the hub with about 10 studs with spring washers and "C" clips. When you disassemble it, don't just throw all the studs, washers, clips in a pile or you will have a mess.

    Note: Make note how all this is arranged when you disassemble. I would stick the stud, spring washers and "C" clips back together temporarily as you disassemble or arrange them on a piece of cardboard or something so that you can keep track of all of it. If you don't keep track of all this hardware, as you disassemble you could loose track of how many you put where, etc. ASK ME HOW I KNOW, lol!!!!!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by trikervet View Post
    There are five bolts that attach both hubs to the wheel. The same five bolts go through a hub on one side, then through the wheel, then the hub on the other side. The head on these bolts is an allen head and I believe a 9/16" nut on the opposite side. After you remove the five bolts, then you can see how the rotors are attached to the hub. They are held on to the hub with about 10 studs with spring washers and "C" clips. When you disassemble it, don't just throw all the studs, washers, clips in a pile or you will have a mess.

    Note: Make note how all this is arranged when you disassemble. I would stick the stud, spring washers and "C" clips back together temporarily as you disassemble or arrange them on a piece of cardboard or something so that you can keep track of all of it. If you don't keep track of all this hardware, as you disassemble you could loose track of how many you put where, etc. ASK ME HOW I KNOW, lol!!!!!!!!
    Thanks for the detailed info on doing this job, very good heads up and writeup .
    # 796

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    good morning. in a previous thread you said your brake pedal would not come back up, did you figure out what that problem was. I would change the clips and spring washers, there is a lot of heat buildup in this area and the spring washers loose there springness and then the pin rattles around and falls out over time, also lets the rotor wabble back an forth. the pedal not coming back up happened to me on a ride last fall stopped at a light and pedal just stuck down, brakes were all locked up. was able to pull up pedal and limp home. ended up being master cylinder.

    good luck

    dragon

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