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Thread: new bike shut down

  1. #1
    200+ Posts rayg5102's Avatar
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    Default new bike shut down

    Well, I just picked up my 2020 on Saturday 2-22-20. I just got back from what would have been my first REAL ride other than the 20 miles back from the dealer

    I got about 15 miles from my house and the bike basically shut down. Check engine lite, Security Light and Traction Control light all came on and stayed lit. I could not drive more than 5 mph and no matter what I did to throttle it would hardly give anything to the engine. Seems it was in some protection mode. took me over an hour to get 10 miles.

    I checked and all those indicators say contact HD deal, who happen to be closed on Mondays now during the winter.

    Since TRACTION CONTROL was one of the lights, I checked on my HD app on my cell under my bikes, and my vin shows 1 recall open for Traction control software updates. HMMM.....

    you would think that on a new bike, they would have all the recalls closed.

    Also on the app, I can't load my vin for the HD connect.... I am beginning to wonder about this dealer...….

    any thoughts on what just happened?


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    The only way to know 4 sure what happened is to scan your ECM and record the codes, do NOT erase them, you are under factory warranty. I would call the dealer to come and pick up your trike. Follow this on how to scan for codes, Good Luck



    1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.



    2- Push odometer reset button in & hold. For 2014 & newer touring models this will be the toggle switch on the left control mount.



    3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release the odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.



    4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.



    5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

    P = ECM/ICM(Electronic Control Module)[EFI] /Ignition Control Module[Carbureted])

    S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)

    SP = speedometer

    T = tachometer



    6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.



    7 - Record the codes.



    8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.

    NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.



    9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.



    10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.



    On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.



    "No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rayg5102 View Post
    Well, I just picked up my 2020 on Saturday 2-22-20. I just got back from what would have been my first REAL ride other than the 20 miles back from the dealer

    I got about 15 miles from my house and the bike basically shut down. Check engine lite, Security Light and Traction Control light all came on and stayed lit. I could not drive more than 5 mph and no matter what I did to throttle it would hardly give anything to the engine. Seems it was in some protection mode. took me over an hour to get 10 miles.

    I checked and all those indicators say contact HD deal, who happen to be closed on Mondays now during the winter.

    Since TRACTION CONTROL was one of the lights, I checked on my HD app on my cell under my bikes, and my vin shows 1 recall open for Traction control software updates. HMMM.....

    you would think that on a new bike, they would have all the recalls closed.

    Also on the app, I can't load my vin for the HD connect.... I am beginning to wonder about this dealer...….

    any thoughts on what just happened?

    That is very disconcerting for sure. This happened to me with my 2009 Ultra Classic a few years ago. Sounds like Harley still hasn't resolved the throttle body fretting issue. That what it sounds like to me. When this happened to me I was in the middle of a busy interstate. Bike just shout down. HD dealership told me it was a common issue. The throttle body connections had to be unplugged and dielectric grease applied to the connections and then everything was fine after that. I never had another problem. As I said, if this is what it is, HD still has not fixed this. That is pitiful. You have me scared as I pick up my 2019 trike this Friday.

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    Quote Originally Posted by osudvm View Post
    That is very disconcerting for sure. This happened to me with my 2009 Ultra Classic a few years ago. Sounds like Harley still hasn't resolved the throttle body fretting issue. That what it sounds like to me. When this happened to me I was in the middle of a busy interstate. Bike just shout down. HD dealership told me it was a common issue. The throttle body connections had to be unplugged and dielectric grease applied to the connections and then everything was fine after that. I never had another problem. As I said, if this is what it is, HD still has not fixed this. That is pitiful. You have me scared as I pick up my 2019 trike this Friday.
    You can read more on this problem and how to check for it here

    https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...ing#post714114
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    You can read more on this problem and how to check for it here

    https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...ing#post714114
    It is also referred to as 'limp mode"

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  7. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    The only way to know 4 sure what happened is to scam your ECM and record the codes, do NOT erase them, you are under factory warranty. I would call the dealer to come and pick up your trike. Follow this on how to scan for codes, Good Luck



    1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.



    2- Push odometer reset button in & hold. For 2014 & newer touring models this will be the toggle switch on the left control mount.



    3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release the odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.



    4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.



    5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

    P = ECM/ICM(Electronic Control Module)[EFI] /Ignition Control Module[Carbureted])

    S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)

    SP = speedometer

    T = tachometer



    6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.



    7 - Record the codes.



    8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.

    NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.



    9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.



    10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.



    On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.



    "No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
    thanks, I will check this out and see what it reads... I will be calling dealer in the AM...… I am Not a happy camper right now.

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    Sorry to hear this, as somebody said once, harley is producing way to fast and not doing the work they should, if this keeps happening no one will be buying harley's any more, just my thought, no wonder they are hurting, word of mouth is hurting them

    All for now Trampas

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    Quote Originally Posted by rayg5102 View Post
    thanks, I will check this out and see what it reads... I will be calling dealer in the AM...… I am Not a happy camper right now.
    What did you find out?

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    Quote Originally Posted by osudvm View Post
    That is very disconcerting for sure. This happened to me with my 2009 Ultra Classic a few years ago. Sounds like Harley still hasn't resolved the throttle body fretting issue. That what it sounds like to me. When this happened to me I was in the middle of a busy interstate. Bike just shout down. HD dealership told me it was a common issue. The throttle body connections had to be unplugged and dielectric grease applied to the connections and then everything was fine after that. I never had another problem. As I said, if this is what it is, HD still has not fixed this. That is pitiful. You have me scared as I pick up my 2019 trike this Friday.
    Had this same issue with my 2008 FLHTP. But I don't recall the check engine light coming on. I have a Thundermax ECM in it. Not sure if it would affect the check engine light, all else is the same as stock ECM except for tuning. Also when I blipped the gas I got no power to the rear wheel, motor idled fine just no throttle. And it wouldn't limp along as you describe. Just came off the Dragon when it happened. Funny on the side of the road and all those biker people just wave. Not that they could have helped anyway I suppose.

    After shutting it off about 10 times it worked and it reoccurred 3 more times before I got to Maryville. Once I got in phone connection range (google) I did what they call a master reference of the ECM and it didn't do it again. Went straight to Maryville H-D, late afternoon on a holiday Sunday and they took care of it, never dawned on me to look at the codes at the time. But that's what they said it was. The throttle body connection, replaced the ends and greased her up. 8 years old at the time.

    I got a 2019 Tri- Glide now and for what it's worth that traction control light stays on unless you disable it. I would also think the traction control recall would have been done. It's a software update/ flash type of deal.

    Hopefully nothing serious.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  11. #10
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    will be picking it up in the morning. Will find out what was wrong and the fix. will post to let you all know as an FYI

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rayg5102 View Post
    Well, I just picked up my 2020 on Saturday 2-22-20. I just got back from what would have been my first REAL ride other than the 20 miles back from the dealer

    I got about 15 miles from my house and the bike basically shut down. Check engine lite, Security Light and Traction Control light all came on and stayed lit. I could not drive more than 5 mph and no matter what I did to throttle it would hardly give anything to the engine. Seems it was in some protection mode. took me over an hour to get 10 miles.

    I checked and all those indicators say contact HD deal, who happen to be closed on Mondays now during the winter.

    Since TRACTION CONTROL was one of the lights, I checked on my HD app on my cell under my bikes, and my vin shows 1 recall open for Traction control software updates. HMMM.....

    you would think that on a new bike, they would have all the recalls closed.

    Also on the app, I can't load my vin for the HD connect.... I am beginning to wonder about this dealer...….

    any thoughts on what just happened?

    Got the bike back, turns out there was a throttle control connector located behind the air filter (?) that was not pushed on completely, as so it worked itself off after a few miles of riding. Or so I am told We will see.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rayg5102 View Post
    Got the bike back, turns out there was a throttle control connector located behind the air filter (?) that was not pushed on completely, as so it worked itself off after a few miles of riding. Or so I am told We will see.
    Best of luck to you.

    It's pitiful that this happened in the first place.
    Present ride--2021 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Altitude

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    Ray that is very feasible. That connector is hard to see and get to. Like was previously posted it CAN also be subject to moisture if loose. I would not fret. Ride and enjoy.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Quote Originally Posted by rayg5102 View Post
    Got the bike back, turns out there was a throttle control connector located behind the air filter (?) that was not pushed on completely, as so it worked itself off after a few miles of riding. Or so I am told We will see.
    Glad it was a simple deal.

    This connector has been problematic for years. Early on it was not very water-tight and caused problems because of that. I always unplug it and put some dielectric grease on the connectors...the newer ones are more watertight, but the dielectric can't hurt, and at the same time I make sure it is fully seated.

    Enjoy your new ride!

    Kevin
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    Call: 662-252-8828 Text: 662-420-4891
    Email: Support@DKCustomProducts.com


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    [QUOTE=DK Custom Products;736194]Glad it was a simple deal.

    This connector has been problematic for years. Early on it was not very water-tight and caused problems because of that. I always unplug it and put some dielectric grease on the connectors...the newer ones are more watertight, but the dielectric can't hurt, and at the same time I make sure it is fully seated.

    Enjoy your new ride!

    thanks, I will have to do that. I'm sure that the Harley Dealer service group didn't do it when fixing or they would have mentioned it. Oh well

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    [QUOTE=rayg5102;736209]
    Quote Originally Posted by DK Custom Products View Post
    Glad it was a simple deal.

    This connector has been problematic for years. Early on it was not very water-tight and caused problems because of that. I always unplug it and put some dielectric grease on the connectors...the newer ones are more watertight, but the dielectric can't hurt, and at the same time I make sure it is fully seated.

    Enjoy your new ride!

    thanks, I will have to do that. I'm sure that the Harley Dealer service group didn't do it when fixing or they would have mentioned it. Oh well
    The HD fix for this is to clean the male connector pins with alcohol, then when dry to apply new dilectric grease HD did improve the weather pac connector, tho water intrusion seems to be the #1 problem here
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    I had this exact same thing happen to me on my 2010. Remove breather cover, pull plug on the left side in back, cleaned it real good, put some diaelctric grease on it and it's not given me a problem since.

    I found out about the fix on an 8 yr old post doing a random search for "loss of throttle power". It would appear this is a pretty common occurence.

    Glad you got back on the road!

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    Glad they got you fixed up.
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    thanks all for the suggestions for permanent fixes. I am sure Harley has not gone into that rework detail. Bet dollars to donughts they just pushed the connector back on.

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