I just purchased PRO ACTION Shocks.

[Trampas]

I'm glad you and you wife are enjoying the new/old shocks, keep us posted on the ride and how much difference there is in speedo with the different size tires.

All for now Trampas

[Fearless]

I'm glad you and you wife are enjoying the new/old shocks, keep us posted on the ride and how much difference there is in speedo with the different size tires.

All for now Trampas

I sure will going to try this afternoon with gps.

[Fearless]

I'm glad you and you wife are enjoying the new/old shocks, keep us posted on the ride and how much difference there is in speedo with the different size tires.

All for now Trampas

Trampas I just got back from a run with my phone set on GPS mode as near as I can tell the speedo runs 1.5 to 2 MPH slower than the GPS program. That is just what the tire program said it would, not enough of a change for me to have it calibrated at the Dealer for. Not enough to get your mileage crazy on the machine either. Before I changed front pulley it ran 5 MPH fast, New Castle Harley adjusted it with the pulley change. I'm telling you the ride is completely 100% better than before now I feel all the road bumps in the handlebars, I will soon address this issue as well. I don't put enough miles on the trike a year to ever wear these out besides they are completely rebuildable and it would be worth every penny if needed. Ride safe Fred

[ultrafxr]

Trampas I just got back from a run with my phone set on GPS mode as near as I can tell the speedo runs 1.5 to 2 MPH slower than the GPS program. That is just what the tire program said it would, not enough of a change for me to have it calibrated at the Dealer for. Not enough to get your mileage crazy on the machine either. Before I changed front pulley it ran 5 MPH fast, New Castle Harley adjusted it with the pulley change. I'm telling you the ride is completely 100% better than before now I feel all the road bumps in the handlebars, I will soon address this issue as well. I don't put enough miles on the trike a year to ever wear these out besides they are completely rebuildable and it would be worth every penny if needed. Ride safe Fred

What are you planning to do for the front suspension? I too have noticed on my 2018 and now my 2020 even with the bigger 49mm forks the front suspension is still not very good.

[Fearless]

What are you planning to do for the front suspension? I too have noticed on my 2018 and now my 2020 even with the bigger 49mm forks the front suspension is still not very good.

George at Pro Action is manufacturing newly designed valve kits for Harley's front forks. Check out the Pro Action Website and the upgrade install video. I plan on doing that as soon as I can get time to do it possibly after the gardens are planted. These fork kits are much less expensive than other systems out there now. It seems rather simple to do the upgrade yourself no special tools should be an afternoon rainy day project. Those shocks made be a believer in Pro Action products. Ride safe Fred

[Trampas]

Trampas I just got back from a run with my phone set on GPS mode as near as I can tell the speedo runs 1.5 to 2 MPH slower than the GPS program. That is just what the tire program said it would, not enough of a change for me to have it calibrated at the Dealer for. Not enough to get your mileage crazy on the machine either. Before I changed front pulley it ran 5 MPH fast, New Castle Harley adjusted it with the pulley change. I'm telling you the ride is completely 100% better than before now I feel all the road bumps in the handlebars, I will soon address this issue as well. I don't put enough miles on the trike a year to ever wear these out besides they are completely rebuildable and it would be worth every penny if needed. Ride safe Fred

I'm glad you are liking the shocks and as far as speedo, you had it figured right on the speedo for being off with the new tires, enjoy

All for now Trampas

[MDO]

If you haven't already, you may find this REPORT useful before spending time and money on some shocks.

We sell some Progressive Suspension products, but unfortunately their rear shocks do not perform that well on the Trikes. Here's an excerpt chart from the above Report link.



If you think it is important to have the collar for pre-load adjustment at the bottom, the Twin-Adjustables can be mounted upside down for easy access to the collars, and you'll get a Much Better ride out of the TA's.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin. The only reason I was looking at Progressive was I was going to get a great deal on them, but it didn't pan out, as they were a no show at the 4 Corners Rally my son puts on at Durango last year.

I'm saving up for a pair of your Bitubo shocks.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Trampas I just got back from a run with my phone set on GPS mode as near as I can tell the speedo runs 1.5 to 2 MPH slower than the GPS program. That is just what the tire program said it would, not enough of a change for me to have it calibrated at the Dealer for. Not enough to get your mileage crazy on the machine either. Before I changed front pulley it ran 5 MPH fast, New Castle Harley adjusted it with the pulley change. I'm telling you the ride is completely 100% better than before now I feel all the road bumps in the handlebars, I will soon address this issue as well. I don't put enough miles on the trike a year to ever wear these out besides they are completely rebuildable and it would be worth every penny if needed. Ride safe Fred

Fred, If I'm not mistaken, don't you have a power vision? If so, you can calibrate your speedo yourself.

You simply do about 10 miles or more on a road that has mile markers, compare your odometer with the mile markers ... for example, if the mile markers say you went 10 miles and your odometer says you went 8.5, that's 15% off low.

Using WinPv, the software that you use with the Power Vision, you create 5 tunes that are exactly like the tune you loaded, except, one is exactly 15% lower for speedometer pulses, 1-17% lower, 1-19% lower, 1-13% lower, and 1-11% lower.

Load the one at 15% lower, do the same 10 miles or more. if it's still low, load the 17% one. If it's hi, load the 13% one. Repeat as necessary.

Pn mine, I was 16% low to start. So, if my speedo showed I went 100 miles, I actually went 84 by the mile markers. After playing with it, when I go 100 miles via mile markers, I go 99.6 miles by odometer.

A lesson I learned, this algorithm HD uses is not linear. 0.004% was the closest I could get it. Changing the pulses by 1 pulse (as far as I could see, it won't allow decimals of the pulses, for example, 2452.5 (bogus number, can't remember what the actual one is), so I decided to error low.

If you're really bored, or anal like me ... the next logical step is to adjust the "miles left to empty" number ... I am working on what the mpg the PV sees from the ECM, when mpg seen by PV and the speedometer are close, "miles left to empty" will be close by default (or at least in theory

... I started messing with that last fall. Since I only really get data at fills, it slowed down over the winter. It was getting closer, but, it too is not linear, so like the speedo cal, It will never be "dead nuts".

Having said that, the mph seen by the PV is getting closer to actual, and by actual I mean gallons added divided by miles driven at fills. Logically, if mpg seen and odometer are more accurate, I should be able to be more confident in the miles left to empty number.

As you can see by these "attempts" it's gonna take awhile to get this right ... LOL







Just for info

PV Set N is the number my program calculates for the next "attempt"

PV Set M is the number I actually used, if the number is not blank, the PV Set N number will be the same. I built in the "manual override as I learned that the mpg algorithm is way less linear than the speedo. Will I ever get it right? ... but gives my brain something to chew on ... thereby keeping it on the reservation ...

[Fearless]

Fred, If I'm not mistaken, don't you have a power vision? If so, you can calibrate your speedo yourself.

You simply do about 10 miles or more on a road that has mile markers, compare your odometer with the mile markers ... for example, if the mile markers say you went 10 miles and your odometer says you went 8.5, that's 15% off low.

Using WinPv, the software that you use with the Power Vision, you create 5 tunes that are exactly like the tune you loaded, except, one is exactly 15% lower for speedometer pulses, 1-17% lower, 1-19% lower, 1-13% lower, and 1-11% lower.

Load the one at 15% lower, do the same 10 miles or more. if it's still low, load the 17% one. If it's hi, load the 13% one. Repeat as necessary.

Pn mine, I was 16% low to start. So, if my speedo showed I went 100 miles, I actually went 84 by the mile markers. After playing with it, when I go 100 miles via mile markers, I go 99.6 miles by odometer.

A lesson I learned, this algorithm HD uses is not linear. 0.004% was the closest I could get it. Changing the pulses by 1 pulse (as far as I could see, it won't allow decimals of the pulses, for example, 2452.5 (bogus number, can't remember what the actual one is), so I decided to error low.

If you're really bored, or anal like me ... the next logical step is to adjust the "miles left to empty" number ... I am working on what the mpg the PV sees from the ECM, when mpg seen by PV and the speedometer are close, "miles left to empty" will be close by default (or at least in theory

... I started messing with that last fall. Since I only really get data at fills, it slowed down over the winter. It was getting closer, but, it too is not linear, so like the speedo cal, It will never be "dead nuts".

Having said that, the mph seen by the PV is getting closer to actual, and by actual I mean gallons added divided by miles driven at fills. Logically, if mpg seen and odometer are more accurate, I should be able to be more confident in the miles left to empty number.

As you can see by these "attempts" it's gonna take awhile to get this right ... LOL







Just for info

PV Set N is the number my program calculates for the next "attempt"

PV Set M is the number I actually used, if the number is not blank, the PV Set N number will be the same. I built in the "manual override as I learned that the mpg algorithm is way less linear than the speedo. Will I ever get it right? ... but gives my brain something to chew on ... thereby keeping it on the reservation ...

Alan first of all thank you for your time and efforts. The bottom line is for 2 mph not worth the fuel I would burn or the precious time and at my age time is the most important element here. I figured that slower will make up for 7 years of fast OEM setting. Might just average it out it's plenty close for me. Ride safe Fred

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Alan first of all thank you for your time and efforts. The bottom line is for 2 mph not worth the fuel I would burn or the precious time and at my age time is the most important element here. I figured that slower will make up for 7 years of fast OEM setting. Might just average it out it's plenty close for me. Ride safe Fred

I usually do my speedo runs when I head to Long John Siliver's, we don't have one in town and Alan is hooked on it. Nearest one is 65 miles away, it's a gorgeous ride there and back, and the road has mile markers. Alan gets a fun ride, some fish and chips and some speedo calibration ... not to mention the mental thing.

[David792]

I miss my Long John Silver's

[CrystalPistol]

Harbor Freight 1,200 Lb. motorcycle jack several brands out there. Nothing fancy. just I cannot justify spending big bucks on a jack I only use once or twice a year maybe three times. Travel safe Fred

Interesting. Bought one of their red ones on sale for under $100 in the late 1990s, swapped out metric bolts for 1/2" grade 8s, used it some on a GL bike, but it never occurred to me to try it on the trike. Sold the bike, been trying to find a use for the jack since to justify keeping it. Like the trailer leveler jack-stands too, light, stout, good adjustment range.

[Fearless]

Interesting. Bought one of their red ones on sale for under $100 in the late 1990s, swapped out metric bolts for 1/2" grade 8s, used it some on a GL bike, but it never occurred to me to try it on the trike. Sold the bike, been trying to find a use for the jack since to justify keeping it. Like the trailer leveler jack-stands too, light, stout, good adjustment range.

Like I've said once maybe twice a year I put the trike on the jack. Just can't justify a big money for a very little used item. It takes a little bit longer to raise the trike going from one jack to the other but I'm in no hurry. I can go higher if needed but that was all farther up I wanted to go for the work I was doing. wrench safe Fred