I have a 2008 GL 1800 with a CSC Cobra Trike kit. I have checked the clutch switch and side stand switch and both are good. Still will not start in gear with clutch pulled. What am I overlooking?
I have a 2008 GL 1800 with a CSC Cobra Trike kit. I have checked the clutch switch and side stand switch and both are good. Still will not start in gear with clutch pulled. What am I overlooking?
Jim..I have had the same problem on my 2008 GL1800. A few years ago when it did this we replaced the microswitch at the clutch. No more problems until about a year ago when it started doing it again. I used to be able to kindof wiggle the clutch as I had it pulled in and it would start but then it flat refused to do so and I had to start in neutral.
Just last month I had the microswitch changed out again..the mechanic told me there was nothing wrong with the one in it but I asked him to replace it anyway.
The mechanic saw that I had the clutch dial setting on 5...it has always been so. He set it at 4. I was still experiencing sporadic start-in-gear problem. Sometimes it will, sometimes not. Mechanic thinks the thin foam grip covers I have on the grips for hand comfort are preventing the clutch pull to engage as tightly as it should. I disagree as I have had them on the bike ever since I bought it in early 2012 and did not experience a problem until 2014 or 15 when we replaced the microswitch the first time and then no more problems until about a year ago.
On the most recent ride I squeezed that clutch in as tight as I could and made sure I held it that tight as I pushed the starter button...started every time.
Maybe just lucky on that ride that it did start. Either I have been busy or its been raining ever since so haven’t been out to ride since last Friday to test it further.
I have a Motor Trike Adventure kit.
And no, the problem isn’t the sidestand switch. We had that checked back in 2014-15 when it first started this.
New course heading Mr. Sulu: ...2nd star to the right and straight on til morning...!!
Scooter and Sassi....2 furrever.
If the switch is good, check the lever for a worn bushing.
Retired trike builder
America's first lady trike builder.
Bushing in clutch lever that pushes on push rod.
Usually under $10. Buy 2, carry a spare.
If it wears, and it will, just like not pulling the lever all the way in.
It prevents wearing the lever out, provides a buffer or renewable bearing surface.
Make Courtesy Your "Code of the Road" too!
Thank you Trike Lady and Crystal... will do.
New course heading Mr. Sulu: ...2nd star to the right and straight on til morning...!!
Scooter and Sassi....2 furrever.
Thank for the info; Trike Lady, Paws & Les. Heading to garage to check those thing out.
Checked everything again and found the clutch switch wasn't engaging put some build up on clutch lever at switch point working great. thank for the info
There are actually 2 bushings on a clutch lever. The one posted above and the other is what the mounting bolt goes through. If you have to wiggle the lever to get it to start in gear, then it is definitely the second bushing is wearing out and allowing too much play. You should not be able to wiggle the lever at all or very little.
There is a kit by DHS Racing to punch out the old bushing and the kit comes with 2 bushings. It's not very expensive at $20 on ebay. I gave it a try and for me it didnt work out to well. I ended up just buying a new OEM clutch lever, also on ebay for $33. I should have just done that from the start. Took care of all my clutch lever issues and no more wiggle.
New course heading Mr. Sulu: ...2nd star to the right and straight on til morning...!!
Scooter and Sassi....2 furrever.
I had to replace that bushing last year when my 2012 kept dropping out of cruise control. The bushing was just worn. Replaced the bushing and the clutch is tight and cruise is working fine
It is very easy. Clutch lever is held in by 1 bolt. Take nut off the bottom and then you need to unscrew the bolt out of the mount. Old clutch lever slides right out. Remove the bushing pictured above from the old lever if it is still in decent shape as the new lever will not have one. I will usually clean it up and put a very little bit of grease on the edge of it before putting bushing into new lever. Make sure that the hole on bushing faces to the right as you reinstall it because there is a "finger" sticking out of the clutch master that fits into that hole. It need to be lined up as you slide the new lever back into the mount. Very easy to see it as you are doing it. I also would think about a light coating of grease on the mounting bolt before putting it back in after you have lever back in and lined up.
As far as the DHS Racing bushing kit (if you were going to go that route) that is a bit more difficult and in my opinion, hit or miss. Driving out the old bushing was that was extremely tight was a mother&/=>@+ to drive out. There is also no real good way to secure and position the lever, I think it is possible to bend the ears on the lever when trying to punch the new bushing in. Then there are some small pieces held in place by the old bushing that need to remain lined up. If they fall out like they did when I tried, you then need to figure out exactly how everything was originally positioned and lined up before popping the new bushing in. I dont think I did because the lever was extremely tight and hard to pull. For a $20 fix, it was worth a try but I would have been better off just buying the new OEM clutch lever first and be done with it.
Thanks again Mike!
New course heading Mr. Sulu: ...2nd star to the right and straight on til morning...!!
Scooter and Sassi....2 furrever.