Was wondering if theres any issues with installing fork tube extensions and hoses that run over the top of the triple tree. Im going back to stock fork springs . Ive had MBL handlebar risers on the trike since new.
Was wondering if theres any issues with installing fork tube extensions and hoses that run over the top of the triple tree. Im going back to stock fork springs . Ive had MBL handlebar risers on the trike since new.
If I understand it correctly, they put fork tube spacers INSIDE the fork tubes and then put the fork caps back on. Those spacers put extra pressure on the stock springs in the fork tubes which raises the front ride height to the correct level for the bike with a trike kit on it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this.
I've just discussed some of these issues with the dealer who will be installing my CSC trike kit on my 2006 GL1800 the end of April. He said that I won't need the spacers in my forks since I have Progressive Monotube guts in my forks and those raise the front ride height enough by themselves without the fork spacers.
I also told him I have MBL handlebar risers on my bike and he said that's not an issue.
I'm not sure what you mean about "hoses that run over the top of the triple tree", but if they are stock on the bike there should be no issue with those either even with the new trike triple tree installed. The triple tree just changes the rake angle of the forks and does not sit higher than the stock triple tree sits.
Hope that helps some. Other will chime in I'm sure.
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Wingman thanks,I was just worried because with the stock hoses,wirung, and risers it seems a little tight on top of the tree. Ive got Traxxion springs a litle heavier than stock for all the years I used to ride 2 up and towed a trailer and now theyre just too stiff for a single rider.
I may be wrong but in reading your post but I'm thinking that your're talking about the slugs that actually screw into the top of the fork tubes. Like these;https://traxxion.com/product/gl1800-...ded-fork-caps/
Some trike companies put these on when they put the rake kits on.
Excuse me for butting in if I'm off base!
Mick,
The hose clamps on the lower fork clamp will need to be modified. They are glued in place and will need to be moved upward about 1/2" so the hoses won't try to stretch during rebound. This only needs to be done when using the 2" fork cap spacer. I hope this helps too........![]()
Jim Murphy
EX-Lehman & Champion Dealer Owner Operator
Iron Butt Rider 2001
WHEN HELP IS OFFERED, A SIMPLE "THANK YOU" IS APPRECIATED.
I would recommend you route the hoses and cables in exactly the same positions that they are routed from the factory. Re-routing them can cause a bind. I tell folks to always take lots of pictures before they take the front end apart.
To make it much easier to reinstall the lines, you can use a tin snip and cut the thin metal wire loom retainer strap that bolts down over the hoses into two pieces, a right and a left. Cut it into two halfs right in the center of the strap. Then you dont need 4 hands to hold all the hoses in place because you can do one side at a time.
Also be mindful of the throttle cables routing in regards to the right fork and the cable stay. The risers do not move the handlebars up or back enough to require re-routing.
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I recently bought the 2" extensions from Papa Zook to replace the 1" ones on my CSC Viper but haven't gotten a chance to install them yet. But with my current downtime, I will be tackling this project and glad I saw this thread. I didnt even consider the brake lines and the possible stretching I might encounter. Great tips in this thread and now I know what to watch out for. Thanks.
The stock brake lines are long enough even with the fork extensions. When the front end is resting on the front tire, the forks will be compressed and the lines are plenty long.
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