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Thread: Freewheeler Chop & ... Not Quite Sure Yet

  1. #1
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    Default Freewheeler Chop & ... Not Quite Sure Yet

    This is maybe my third thread, I'm still new here, but thanks everyone for welcoming me.

    I have wanted a Freewheeler for years. It's going to sound nuts but I always wanted to make it a solo bike, and run the exhaust up behind me in two vertical stacks, with rain flaps, that shoot fire. Like some sort of Mad Max setup.

    Anyway, when the Performance Orange came out this year, I decided it was time. I recently got the bike .. and while the stacks are going to take some time .. I got right to chopping. I started a thread to share how I deleted the passenger grab handles for a cleaner look. Since then, here is a running tally of all the chopping I've done:

    1. Deleted the "Harley-Davidson" logo on the trunk, as well as the reflectors under the trunk latch, and on the fenders. (If you want to do this -- I used a heat gun on the lowest setting, and Stoner's Tarminator to remove the adhesive.

    2. Removed the passenger boards and mounts. (If you want to do this, I want to say it was a 5/16" hex, and I needed my impact wrench to break the bolts free from their Loctite.)

    3. Deleted the grab handles. (Here's my post on how I did it.)

    4. Installed the H-D Black Diamond solo passenger seat (P/N 52000248). You'll see when I attach pictures below that the fitment isn't perfect -- yet. When you remove the seat, there are two screw holes that are set up for 1/4"-20t.p. screws, I think I used 1.25" length chrome screws from Home Depot. You screw them in from underneath and then the seat includes two nice thumbscrews that fasten the seat down on them.

    The problem is that the new seat doesn't hit the tank at a steep enough angle. You can shove it on there without harming anything, but as you can see in the pictures the diamond pattern isn't perfectly square to the tank. I'm gonna pull out my Dremel soon and widen the slot on the bottom of the seat, so it's a little more forgiving when it hooks onto the tank. I expect this will solve the fitment and will update this thread as I go.

    5. So now it's getting a bit more radical. The fenders had to go .. now it looks like a really mean bike! It was really pretty easy. Bought a floor jack at Home Depot, I jacked it at the frame member nearest each of the rear wheels. Take the wheels off. There are five or six Torx screws that can be easily removed with a small hand ratchet, but be sure to unhook, and unclip the turn signal / rear light assembly first so you can set the fender on the ground when the screws come out!

    It looks like the factory folks use some heavy duty two-sided tape to hold the fenders in place while they screw them in. You have to remove that. Learn from my mistake and USE A PLASTIC SCRAPER along with heavy application of Stoner's Tarminator which basically turns that strong adhesive to butter (but is clear coat safe). I used a plastic scraper for 3 of the 4, but made the mistake of using a standard sticker-pusher razor on the first one, and now I have to go get some super fine sandpaper and buff out a few small scratches hidden behind the wheel.

    (Any recommendations on how to get best results?)

    So where it's at now is --

    - Need to Dremel the part of the solo seat where it hooks to the tank, to allow for more adjustment / slack / fitment.

    - Need to fab up some kind of low-profile cowl for where the passenger pillion was.

    - Row of tiny scratches hidden on the orange panel behind passenger wheel -- need to sand / buff these out somehow.

    - Need to fab up a simple, ultra low profile metal piece that screws in where the passenger pillion did. License plate holder and two holes on each side. I ordered up the small "bullet style" turn signals from H-D and wired them in perfectly using the logic boards from the stock rear lights. (I will write up how to do this soon. It is not hard. Soldering and weatherproofing them will be medium skill.) Essentially relocating the lamps and license plate to right where the passenger pillion used to screw in.

    Sorry a couple of the pictures are sideways but I can't figure out how to rotate them!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    Default Next Steps ???

    Some ideas for what's next ...

    1. Figure out what if anything I'm going to try for power. (link) The 131 seems like a possibility but it's a ton of money and I don't want to double-stress the axle. What do you mean .. double stress? Well ...

    2. I really want to see if I can figure out a dually setup. Buy two more of the rear wheels, a set of spacers, some extra long lugs, and make it a dually. I thought through the engineering of it .. I feel like I'm not asking any more of the axle than I would be with a heavy passenger on the back .. or a small trailer .. both of which other people put on this bike. I figure it'll be a bit harder to steer around corners but that's it right? It may just be that I have to try it and see what happens .. I have not been able to find any posts or ideas on what effect this will have.

    3. Does anyone know if Paughco (or anyone) makes a springer front end that can handle the Freewheeler? I asked the nice people at Gateway H-D and they told me that putting a springer on such a heavy bike would ride poorly, that springs couldn't dampen the weight of a trike, you need forks with fluid. Do you think that's right, or do you think I could just get a beefier springer? I'll attach a photo I found online of a FW with a springer on it .. I just wonder how it rides.

    4. And finally, maybe someday I'll figure out how to put stacks on the thing. But the frame members near the rear wheels are in the way, obstructing a straight vertical run, so I may give up and just go with the Rineharts. Also, I wouldn't want any kind of visible bracing holding the pipes vertical .. it would kill the look .. which makes it even harder.

    Well friends .. that's all the ideas fit to print for one day.

    Happy chopping. Your friend, Mud.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
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    Default

    Mud -- I gotta say that you are one talented guy -- -and you are going to get a lot of attention when out on rides.

    The lack of rear fenders may present some challenge when ridding in rain -- your back side will get pretty wet.

    Also, I think here in Washington State, you are not allowed to not have fenders (at least on a car)

    Keep us posted, and it sounds like you are having a lot of fun.

  4. #4
    60+ Posts Dante221's Avatar
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    Default what about inspections?

    Quote Originally Posted by mud32768 View Post
    This is maybe my third thread, I'm still new here, but thanks everyone for welcoming me.

    I have wanted a Freewheeler for years. It's going to sound nuts but I always wanted to make it a solo bike, and run the exhaust up behind me in two vertical stacks, with rain flaps, that shoot fire. Like some sort of Mad Max setup.

    Anyway, when the Performance Orange came out this year, I decided it was time. I recently got the bike .. and while the stacks are going to take some time .. I got right to chopping. I started a thread to share how I deleted the passenger grab handles for a cleaner look. Since then, here is a running tally of all the chopping I've done:

    1. Deleted the "Harley-Davidson" logo on the trunk, as well as the reflectors under the trunk latch, and on the fenders. (If you want to do this -- I used a heat gun on the lowest setting, and Stoner's Tarminator to remove the adhesive.

    2. Removed the passenger boards and mounts. (If you want to do this, I want to say it was a 5/16" hex, and I needed my impact wrench to break the bolts free from their Loctite.)

    3. Deleted the grab handles. (Here's my post on how I did it.)

    4. Installed the H-D Black Diamond solo passenger seat (P/N 52000248). You'll see when I attach pictures below that the fitment isn't perfect -- yet. When you remove the seat, there are two screw holes that are set up for 1/4"-20t.p. screws, I think I used 1.25" length chrome screws from Home Depot. You screw them in from underneath and then the seat includes two nice thumbscrews that fasten the seat down on them.

    The problem is that the new seat doesn't hit the tank at a steep enough angle. You can shove it on there without harming anything, but as you can see in the pictures the diamond pattern isn't perfectly square to the tank. I'm gonna pull out my Dremel soon and widen the slot on the bottom of the seat, so it's a little more forgiving when it hooks onto the tank. I expect this will solve the fitment and will update this thread as I go.

    5. So now it's getting a bit more radical. The fenders had to go .. now it looks like a really mean bike! It was really pretty easy. Bought a floor jack at Home Depot, I jacked it at the frame member nearest each of the rear wheels. Take the wheels off. There are five or six Torx screws that can be easily removed with a small hand ratchet, but be sure to unhook, and unclip the turn signal / rear light assembly first so you can set the fender on the ground when the screws come out!

    It looks like the factory folks use some heavy duty two-sided tape to hold the fenders in place while they screw them in. You have to remove that. Learn from my mistake and USE A PLASTIC SCRAPER along with heavy application of Stoner's Tarminator which basically turns that strong adhesive to butter (but is clear coat safe). I used a plastic scraper for 3 of the 4, but made the mistake of using a standard sticker-pusher razor on the first one, and now I have to go get some super fine sandpaper and buff out a few small scratches hidden behind the wheel.

    (Any recommendations on how to get best results?)

    So where it's at now is --

    - Need to Dremel the part of the solo seat where it hooks to the tank, to allow for more adjustment / slack / fitment.

    - Need to fab up some kind of low-profile cowl for where the passenger pillion was.

    - Row of tiny scratches hidden on the orange panel behind passenger wheel -- need to sand / buff these out somehow.

    - Need to fab up a simple, ultra low profile metal piece that screws in where the passenger pillion did. License plate holder and two holes on each side. I ordered up the small "bullet style" turn signals from H-D and wired them in perfectly using the logic boards from the stock rear lights. (I will write up how to do this soon. It is not hard. Soldering and weatherproofing them will be medium skill.) Essentially relocating the lamps and license plate to right where the passenger pillion used to screw in.

    Sorry a couple of the pictures are sideways but I can't figure out how to rotate them!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Will you be able to get a passing inspection with the rear tires exposed?

    It really looks great!

    Dante
    2018 Wicked RED Harley Freewheeler
    HOG Life member

  5. #5
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    Default Update on Progress

    Hi everybody, I am excited to be able to share some progress as well as some new options for y'all to use on your own Freewheelers if you decide.

    Today I will explain how I deleted my fenders to achieve more of a chopped look, and how you can relocate the license plate bracket and rear lights as well.

    REMOVING FENDERS -- Other folks have done this on the forum, I think it looks great, apparently some states may require fenders so you have to check your local inspection requirements. One important down-side is that your rear tires will kick water all over you, and your bike if you ride through rain or puddles.

    How to do it.

    Step 1. On a flat surface, set your bike's emergency brake and put it in gear to avoid rolling. Approaching from one of the sides, roll a floor jack underneath and jack one of the sides using a frame member. Place a jack stand under the axle for safety.

    Step 2. Remove the 4 lug-nuts and wheel from the side of the bike. A little bit of gentle 3-D rotation will get the wheel out from under the fender.

    Step 3. Looking up under the fender, you'll see the turn signal / brake light wiring clipped to the fender along various points. It is easy to unclip these with your hands so that the wiring hangs loose. Then, remove the two Phillips screws from the corresponding light assembly on the back of the fender, pull it off, and unplug the electrical connector so that you can slide the wiring back through and out of the fender. Screw back on the (now disconnected) light assembly.

    Step 4. Use a Torx bit (I think it was a T30) and a small hand-ratchet to remove the five or six bolts holding the fender to the bike. When you get to the last bolt, you'll need to support the fender as it separates from the main body. If it doesn't separate immediately, you can pull straight out, carefully, to separate the fender from the bike. There is strongly adhesive two-sided tape holding the fender to the body.

    Step 5. Ensure the brake light cable is fully separated from the fender. Set the fender aside for storage.

    Step 6. WITH CARE. Use Stoner's Tarminator and a PLASTIC STICKER PUSHER to dissolve and remove the strong two-sided tape. This is a crummy job that takes time and care to do correctly. You must use a PLASTIC sticker pusher instead of e.g. a razor scraper or else you will almost certainly scratch the plastic / fiberglass body. Stoner's melts that tape like butter. Keep at it and you will succeed. Be sure to use a grease-cutting dish soap to remove the remaining Tarminator when the job is finished.

    Step 7. Replace the T30 Torx bolts and washers into the body, unless you have some other approach you'd like to take. Look at my bike to see what it looks like with the bolts put back in.

    Step 8. Pull the brake light cable back up and under the seat for reuse however you want to approach .. or just go without rear signals / brake lights if you prefer.

    Step 9. Replace wheel and lug-nuts.

    Step 10. Remove jack stand and lower the bike.

    REPEAT FOR OTHER SIDE OF BIKE.

  6. #6
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    Default Relocating License Plate Bracket

    So .. you removed your fenders .. or you just want to put the license plate elsewhere for your own reasons. In this post I'll explain how I relocated my license plate from the standard place, to a simple bolt-on with perfect fit behind the passenger seat.

    Basically, I took out my calipers, spent a bunch of time measuring around the license plate and the seat, made a technical drawing, and found some awesome partners in Todd and Christine, the husband and wife business called Accufast 2D based out of Tennessee. You can find them at accufast@united.net .. Todd is a metalworking professional who specializes in custom motorcycle parts. What can I say .. he lived up to his business name .. accurate and fast .. and very helpful in guiding me on what is practical to do with metalworking.

    So if you like the way mine turned out, you can simply download a copy of the drawing here and send it to Todd, and he can make you one with the exact same fitment.

    Practical decisions / deviations from the attached drawing:

    - I had Todd use a rustproof black paint on mine since powder-coating was a longer lead time item and I was itchy to get my bike back on the road

    - Instead of drilling circular holes for the plate mount, he ended up drilling out ovals for better compatibility with different states' license plates.

    The only other thing you have to do to get this license plate mount to work is, the bolt holding in your seat is a 1/4"-20 coarse threaded bolt. Pick up a new chrome bolt at Home Depot, as I think the stock Harley one that holds in just the seat is probably a 1/2" or 3/4" length, and you will need a 1" or 1 1/4" one for the very best fitment once you add the plate bracket.

    All best.

    Mud

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mud32768 View Post
    So .. you removed your fenders .. or you just want to put the license plate elsewhere for your own reasons. In this post I'll explain how I relocated my license plate from the standard place, to a simple bolt-on with perfect fit behind the passenger seat.

    Basically, I took out my calipers, spent a bunch of time measuring around the license plate and the seat, made a technical drawing, and found some awesome partners in Todd and Christine, the husband and wife business called Accufast 2D based out of Tennessee. You can find them at accufast@united.net .. Todd is a metalworking professional who specializes in custom motorcycle parts. What can I say .. he lived up to his business name .. accurate and fast .. and very helpful in guiding me on what is practical to do with metalworking.

    So if you like the way mine turned out, you can simply download a copy of the drawing here and send it to Todd, and he can make you one with the exact same fitment.

    Practical decisions / deviations from the attached drawing:

    - I had Todd use a rustproof black paint on mine since powder-coating was a longer lead time item and I was itchy to get my bike back on the road

    - Instead of drilling circular holes for the plate mount, he ended up drilling out ovals for better compatibility with different states' license plates.

    The only other thing you have to do to get this license plate mount to work is, the bolt holding in your seat is a 1/4"-20 coarse threaded bolt. Pick up a new chrome bolt at Home Depot, as I think the stock Harley one that holds in just the seat is probably a 1/2" or 3/4" length, and you will need a 1" or 1 1/4" one for the very best fitment once you add the plate bracket.

    All best.

    Mud

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    Are you planing to wire a light to the plate so it will be legal at night...I know here in Jersey with out an aluminted [White light] plate at night you will be pulled over...

    And not to mention exposed wheels......
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

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    Default Bullet Rear Turn Signal build

    Again .. if you remove your fender .. you may find yourself in need of a place to mount rear turn signal / brake lights. You may also just want to place them in a different spot for looks.

    Anyway, one place you can put them is where the sissy bar would otherwise mount. (Obviously this means you can't have a sissy bar so it is a design choice!)

    Inital shopping list:

    - Buy some extra plastic inserts that go in the sissy bar hole when you don't have a sissy bar. They are cheap and you will make mistakes drilling. HD Part Number 6130 0135 $6.99 per. If you can afford, I would buy six or eight of them unless you are awesome at measuring.

    - 69736-02 H-D Bullet Turn Signal. $33.95 per. Quantity 2. You DO NOT need the corresponding metal standoffs, you'll need to make your own which I will guide you through.

    - 73154-96BK H-D wiring harness. Probably buy enough that you have 4 total although you'll only need two, depending on your skill with electrical stuff. It is straightforward to do a quality job rather than using wire nuts, I will teach you how to use an OEM wiring harness for perfect fit.

    - 73190-96 and 73191-96 HD wiring leads. These two are the male and female of the same, and you really only need the female ones for this work. You need six of the female ones to do the job but I recommend buying at least ten in case you make a mistake. They are maybe $1.00 each or less.

    - You will need two 1/4"-20 to 5/16"-18 nut couplers, as close to 1" in size as you can get. This is basically a two-sided nut with one size on one end, and another size on the other. These are tricky to find but I found mine on Amazon through a seller named Greschler's Hardware. Grainger has them also. Try to get something rust-resistant like zinc plated or stainless.

    - Then you'll need to buy a length (2' min) of 1/4"-20 threaded bar, and a similar length of 5/16"-18 threaded bar. These are basically long nuts without a head.

    TOOLS NEEDED:

    - Fine toothed hacksaw

    - Pliers

    - Drill (1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" bits)

    - Electric wire cutter

    - Needle nose pliers

    - Very small (eyeglasses type) flathead screw driver

    I will come back to this post and write up the HOW TO shortly.

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    Default How to Build the Bullet Tail-Lights

    For some reason it won't let me edit my last post .. so I will explain how I assembled the bullet tail lights shown in my previous post now, using the raw materials I listed in that post.

    Step 1: Cutting 5/16" bar. Screw the 5/16"-18 bar into one of the bullet taillights as far as it will go (the bolt hole on the tail lights is this thread pitch) -- hand tight. Use a dry erase marker to mark the threads on the bar, closest to where it enters the light (so you have a record of the depth of the light). Unscrew the light.

    Now hold up the nut coupler to where the dry erase mark is. Make another dry erase mark further down the bar, half the length of the nut coupler (the two bars, 5/16" and 1/4" will meet in the middle). Finally, add about 1/16" of an inch (two threads maybe) for a washer. So you have three dry erase marks, each further down into the bar than the last. It is this furthest mark that represents the depth of the taillight, plus the depth of a washer, and half the depth of the nut coupler.

    Take out your hacksaw and do your best to cut in between the threads rather than straight down on it. This will result in you sawing at a slight bit of an angle to stay between the threads. Your measurements don't have to be perfect but it is better to be a little bit under than a little bit over. I didn't use my calipers for this job.

    Now, cut a second piece of the 5/16" bar stock of the same length.

    Step 2. Cutting the 1/4" bar. First, remove the black plastic spacer that covers the sissy bar insert on your trike's body. Simply get under it with your fingernails or something flat that won't scratch your paint, it's not hard to pry. Notice there are two screw-holes, you will be mounting the lights in the screw holes towards the back of the bike.

    Remove the seat.

    Now, screw the bar stock into that screw-hole, while holding your finger underneath of it. Keep screwing the bar stock in until it touches your finger on the bottom, i.e. you have screwed it all the way through the hole. Use your dry erase marker to mark off this depth on the bar stock. Add another 1/4" for clearance through the plastic cover, and another 1/16" for a washer. Then, hold up the nut coupler as you did with the 5/16" bar and add half the depth of the nut coupler. Unscrew the bar stock from the motorcycle and you'll have several dry erase marks on the bar stock -- the furthest one in represents the depth of the screw-hole, plus a space for the plastic cover, a washer, and half the depth of the nut coupler. You should always do your best to be accurate, but with this cut it doesn't matter if you're a little bit over, as any extra bar stock can just come out the bottom of the hole where you held your finger.

    Cut the bar stock, then cut a second piece for the second light.

    Step 3. Drilling out the plastic covers. Cut another 1" piece from your 1/4"-20 bar stock. Careful with these as the ends tend to be very sharp. Hand screw it into one of the holes where you will be installing your light, but careful not to screw it in so far that it gets stuck in there! Leave at least 1/4" of stock sticking up out of the hole for you to grab with a pair of pliers. Take a q-tip and put a bit of motor oil or Vaseline on the top of the screw. Line up the plastic cover and try to push it straight down, back into place -- it shouldn't go because the screw is raised enough to keep it from going in, but just barely. Now pull it straight up. There should be a small greasy dot right where you need to drill out the hole!

    Start by drilling out a 5/16" hole, centered where the greasy dot was. If your measuring was awesome, then you should be able to screw in the 1/4" bar stock, push down the plastic cover, and have the bar stock fit nice and cleanly through the hole. If your measuring was not awesome, you have two choices -- burn another cover and try again (the second time was a charm for me) -- or step it up to a 3/8" hole. If your hole is so far off it won't go through 3/8" -- burn another cover and try again, or you'll have to use bigger washers and it's not quite as clean a look.

    Be sure to do the oil-dot trick on each of the two sides of the bike, as the offsets are a little different on both sides.

    Once you have two plastic covers that are drilled to your liking, you'll need to drill another hole in each for the light's wiring. Underneath and in the middle of every plastic cover is a little circle outline, perfectly centered. Simply drill this out with a 5/16" bit and you're set.

    Step 4. Assembly. I forgot to tell you that you need two 5/16" chrome washers, and two 1/4" chrome washers, these can be found in the hardware aisle at Home Depot (they helpfully have a whole assortment of chrome bits for us bikers ). Sorry for not including these on the shopping list above.

    For each side --

    • Screw the cut 5/16" bar stock fully into the light assembly -- hand tight.
    • Put a 5/16" washer onto the bar stock.
    • Screw the 5/16" side of the nut coupler fully onto the bar stock.
    • If this assembly is not fully tight, gently take a pair of pliers and you can get another couple of turns out of it without damaging anything.
    • (If you still have slack -- re-cut another length of the 5/16" bar to be shorter)
    • Now, screw the 1/4" stock into the bottom of the nut coupler until hand tight.
    • Place a 1/4" washer onto the 1/4" bar stock.
    • Make sure the plastic cover is inserted into the trike!
    • Insert the 1/4" bar stock (careful with the washer) through the hole and screw it into the bike ...


    You will know when to stop turning the assembly when it just begins to stress the plastic cover, obviously ensure it is lined up rear-facing and to your liking. Feed the turn-signal wiring through the other hole, zip-tying it along the way until it meets along with most of the other wiring under your saddle. Now you need to do the wiring.

    Step 5. Wiring. Examine your old light assembly, which consists of a bulb, three wires, going into a plastic harness / plug. Note the colors - red, black, and blue, and CAREFULLY note which terminals each goes into. Note that the plug only orients one way, be sure not to get your wires reversed. Unplug the light bulb / wire / harness assembly from the little circuit board, and use a paper towel to wipe some of the electrical jelly off.

    You'll now need that eyeglass screw driver. Looking into the part of the harness that was once inserted into the circuit board, you'll see there is a little bit of space in the connector above each wire terminal. Insert the screw driver as deep as you can into that space, and use it as a lever to push down until you hear a click. Giving a gentle wiggle and pull on the other side, the wires will readily pull out of the connector, leaving you able to reuse the connector with other wires.

    Take out the package of female connectors that match the ones on the end of these wires you just removed from the socket. Look carefully at one of the wires you just removed and see how there is one crimp that acts as a collar for strength and as second crimp that contacts the bare wire.

    Now, for each of your new turn signal lights, carefully strip a bit extra of the outer jacketing .. say another inch on each. If you cut too deeply and stripped the inner wires, cut the whole thing off and start again. You have room to try a few times.

    Then, for the inner wires, strip each one to bare copper about 1/8" or 3/16" -- look at the ones you just removed from the harness as a reference and try to copy them as best you can.

    Cut one of the female connectors off of the strip you bought, then remove the bottom tab that connects it to the others (you can see this part is not on the ones that just came off your bike). Holding the wire in the connector with one hand, carefully use the needle nose pliers to crimp one side of the bare-wire catch, then fold the other side down on it, and then use the needle nose to shape it so that it is tight, but is no wider on any side than the square-shaped terminal in front of it. Repeat for the outer catch that strengthens the connector's hold on the wire.

    If someone's interested in a demo or more info on the crimping let me know. I had a mechanic at the dealership show me once and it really helped me get a handle on it quickly. If you are uncomfortable with the crimping, another option is to cut the wires on the original light fixtures, and simply do a solder join with heat-shring tubing for waterproofness.

    Anyway -- the most important part -- push the newly made wires with connector ends back into the harness. This is pretty easy -- but the mapping is -- new blue goes where the old blue went. New black goes where the old black went. Purple on the new goes where red went on the old. (Harley seems to use purple to mean a hot wire, sometimes switched.)

    Now you can plug the bike's light connector into the circuit board that came with your rear light, and your new bullet turn signal into the place where the old connector once was, and it should work just fine. Test: left, right, running lights, and high-intensity (brake applied). If they don't light, it is almost certainly that your connectors need work.

    Step 6. Clean-up. Finally, use some wire-ties to neaten up the work you just completed. Keep in mind that the underside of the bike [1] can be exposed to elements, so you will want to waterproof these connections somehow, for example by sealing in plastic wrap, or a small waterproof box that you fasten; and [2] the cables run a bit long and the axle and belt are exposed nearby, so you need to make liberal use of wire ties to keep everything well separated. It is not hard to make a quality job out of it.

    I hope you enjoy this write up and find some value in it.



    Mud

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    Default Question

    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    Are you planing to wire a light to the plate so it will be legal at night...I know here in Jersey with out an aluminted [White light] plate at night you will be pulled over...

    And not to mention exposed wheels......
    --

    Good questions. I don't think it would be too hard to wire in a light over the plate, but I'm going to try my luck without and see how it goes. There are a lot of plate brackets that bikers get away with that lack lighting .. and I think if you are a police officer trying to see my plate that it is probably even more visible than the stock location .. not to mention their headlights will do a fine job of lighting it.

    As for the fenders, I was careful to read up on the Missouri requirements and I was not able to see anything about fenders being required in a state inspection. In most places I've lived the police seem to leave bikers alone unless you're being a nuisance. Here's hoping they will let me wrench on my custom bike in peace...

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    Default What's Next ...

    Speaking of being a nuisance ..

    I have some updates on other ideas I had for the bike...

    Duallie rear wheels -- It's just beyond my ability to engineer. After reading Free Bird's excellent thread on his custom build, and talking to Jake the master mechanic over at Gateway H-D .. the Freewheeler's 4-bolt lug pattern, among other engineering aspects of the rear drive line, just isn't meant to have double the friction with the ground. My idea to run extra-long lug nuts and wheel spacers to put the duallie wheels in was a recipe for torsion shearing the lug nuts .. which could have been a catastrophic problem at speed. So I have to table this for now, but I will come back to it some day, even if I have to take a legit F-250 DRW rear end and build a trike out of that.

    Stack exhaust -- More dreams dashed. I think this one was more possible, but the rear drive line makes routing the pipes tricky, I don't have the experience to cut holes in the body nicely, and other than the sissy bar holes, I can't think of anywhere else to put a stabilizing bracket for the stacks. Not to mention that any kind of stabilizer is going to kill the look. I am also going to come back to this some day. I will probably just build a trike that is a semi... lol.

    But I haven't given up on everything. I talked to the guys at Fuel Moto, along with my new friend Rob at Doc's HD who has been helping me with all of my crazy plans. We are going to put a Jackpot 2-1-2 black ceramic header on the trike, and run it into a Jackpot black ceramic exhaust. Harley Extreme Breather air cleaner, and Wood Performance 22X cams. We'll flash it up with a Power Vision and see what happens.

    On the milder side, I was able to wrench on the chrome rear bumper this weekend. I haven't had something to use my torque wrench on in like 5 years .. so I felt good when it called for exactly 18 ft-lbs and I even had some Loctite laying around.

    I have been looking around online but haven't seen any real wheel choices at the 4 x 4.25 except for the Willy Shiny chrome set .. which looks really nice but I'm hoping for a set of wire wheels for more of a chopper look. I also saw that someone on here powder coated their stock Enforcer wheels and that's a nice look .. and there's that Ray Price '32 with the painted red centers that also looks amazing. Wheels, wheels, I have more thinking to do. I found some places that make custom wheels .. like TheWheelSmith.net. After reading Free Bird's posts I'm really concerned about using spacers / adapters unless I'm a physicist like he is! It might be safer to either shine up the Enforcers or have something with an OEM fit manufactured...

    Well that's all the trouble I can stir for one day. Will keep you all posted. Welcome any ideas or if any of you were able to get Cragars / etc going safely without being a machinist / engineer yourself.

    Thanks!

    Mud

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    Default

    Mr Mud, if you are going to use the HD breather you may want to re engineer the head vents and run them to a catch can rather than have them in the intake of the throttle body.

    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Jack how do you do that using the HD breather? Is it less costly than a full kit from DK?

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    Quote Originally Posted by WindyOne View Post
    Jack how do you do that using the HD breather? Is it less costly than a full kit from DK?
    Hi Don. The HD breathers require drilling and tapping of the stand offs, it can be done but IMO the DK Outlaw air cleaners are way better and easier to work with. Get a hold of Kevin @ http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/contacts He will give you the correct parts info for your Bike

    http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/diy-...diy-bh-brt.htm

    Have a look here also
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Default re: Catch Can

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    Mr Mud, if you are going to use the HD breather you may want to re engineer the head vents and run them to a catch can rather than have them in the intake of the throttle body.

    Jack this is a great idea. I will check it out for sure, not only for my FW but also for my Road King. I have to check out this DK Customs site in more detail ... a lot of people on here speak highly of them.

    Thanks!

    Mud

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    Quote Originally Posted by mud32768 View Post
    Jack this is a great idea. I will check it out for sure, not only for my FW but also for my Road King. I have to check out this DK Customs site in more detail ... a lot of people on here speak highly of them.

    Thanks!

    Mud
    Do check them out, Kevin and Devin are #1 guys, no BS from them and very skilled at making parts. My 17 Freewheeler was a test mule on the dyno with D K Customs

    Look here http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/milw...-dk-m8-rpt.htm
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    13500+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    Hi Don. The HD breathers require drilling and tapping of the stand offs, it can be done but IMO the DK Outlaw air cleaners are way better and easier to work with. Get a hold of Kevin @ http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/contacts He will give you the correct parts info for your Bike

    http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/diy-...diy-bh-brt.htm

    Have a look here also
    I did the DYI on my HD stage one ... the only tough part is plugging the little holes that allow the vapor to go back into the intake ... I just used high temp RTV and pushed it in one side and used an ear syringe to suck it through, let it cure ... voila.

    The breather is made out of pot aluminum, so drilling and tapping is a snap. Just mark where you want the taps to come off, then remove it and do the deed.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is what was coming out of my air cleaner before the DYI External, now, the little silver can gets cleaned when I do oil changes.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyWuzHe View Post
    I did the DYI on my HD stage one ... the only tough part is plugging the little holes that allow the vapor to go back into the intake ... I just used high temp RTV and pushed it in one side and used an ear syringe to suck it through, let it cure ... voila.

    The breather is made out of pot aluminum, so drilling and tapping is a snap. Just mark where you want the taps to come off, then remove it and do the deed.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is what was coming out of my air cleaner before the DYI External, now, the little silver can gets cleaned when I do oil changes.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Be very very careful not to overdo RTV any where on any engine, Bad JU JU happens when and if it decides to let loose. It can and does plug oil galleries causing catastrophic engine damage. Never asume that once it has cured it will not cause damage, I have done lots of repairs to engines that consumed RTV
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Default Wheels, Lugnuts, and Locks - oh my

    I'm still wrenching on the trike .. lots of parts coming in the next week or so and then she goes under the knife .. will report back.

    In the meantime, I figured out what I want to do with the wheels. There are so many options it makes your head spin .. and on my iPad here there's a free app called Adobe Photoshop Mix that's easy to use, lets you superimpose one picture on another. So I was able to download pictures of wheels I liked and mock them up on a picture of my trike. I'll upload an example.

    Anyway, I knew I wanted a set of 3 wheels the same, and finally I decided I wanted them to be 60-spoke wire wheels. There were a few wheelmakers online but I ended up going with HDWheels.com since they seemed to be the most focused on Harley. Andrei over there was patient with me and we discussed all the various options to ensure correct fit. I will share pictures when the wheels arrive.

    Until then .. here is a bunch of information to help you with wheels ..

    FRONT END

    The stock front tire is a Dunlop D408F, made by Dunlop exclusively for Harley. On my 2020 model it is a 130/60-B19 bias ply tire with a 61H service rating (567lbs / 130mph). The stock tire is mounted on a stock wheel, 3.5" x 19".

    Everyone seems to think that you can go up to 21" without any problems so that is what I am trying out, will report back. That means buying a wheel that is 3.5" x 21", getting a fender riser, and running a new tire.

    Most people who go up to the 21 have seemed to run Avon Cobra or Metzeler ME888, however I am OCD and wanted the tires to be the same make. The only tire brand that makes both a motorcycle front tire and a passenger rear tire, that I could find was Dunlop. Dunlop makes a D408F in 130/60-B21 that I would have gone with, but since HDWheels is doing the mounting and balancing they didn't want to have to go to a Harley dealer to get the tire. Instead, I'll run the Dunlop American Elite which I'm told is basically the D408F sold to everyone but Harley.

    REAR END

    The stock rear tire is a Dunlop Signature car tire. On my 2020 model, it is a P205/65-R15 radial tire with a 92T (1390lbs / 118mph) service rating. The stock tire is mounted on a stock wheel, 5.5" x 15". Its lugnut pattern is 4 x 4.25" (108mm).

    As you know from reading the forum, everyone has their own approach to the rear tires on a Freewheeler, but it seems the main decision you have to make is whether you want to run wheel adapters (to step up to a 5-lug wheel) and/or wheel spacers (seems like this can afford you more backspace for larger tires).

    I spent a lot of time reading this forum and other sites, and talking to Harley mechanics. It seemed like there was some risk involved with the wheel adapters and spacers unless you really knew your stuff -- talk of avoiding cheap ones, of Free Bird needing to re-machine his when they arrived from trhe distributor, just thinking, this is one part I didn't want to fail on me while I was riding down the road at speed. I decided to take a more conservative approach and stick with the 15" diameter but step up slightly to a 6" width. Thus, no need for spacers or adapters, just keep the 4-lug setup.

    WHEEL LOCKS

    You don't need wheel locks until you do. I'll never forget the day my mom was out of town, I was taking care of the house, and the Volvo crapped out. I took it to the dealer and they gave me a nice new Camry for a loaner. What a waste of a day. I get home, go to sleep, and wake up the next morning, some idiots took one of the front wheels and they even left their floor jack under the car when they ran off, leaving the car sitting on its disc. Too bad it was a cheap jack!

    Anyway, if you want to lock your rear wheels, it's easy. The lug nuts are a 1/2" - 20 (fine) thread pitch. The total outside length of each lugnut is 1 & 11/32", and they are tightened using a 3/4" impact wrench. The inside length of each lugnut is 1 & 10/32"; of this inside length, about half is threaded and half is just open space that can not grab the lug bolt.

    Long story short, McGard is a top brand in wheel locks, and an O'Reilly's near by had model number 24010 in stock which will fit your Freewheeler perfectly. Put one on each wheel and you have two to spare; I recommend you order a second key from McGard using the key code in the package.

    CONCLUSION

    It's gonna be a little weird running tubes in my tires, but I really wanted spokes and besides, if I end up hating it I still have the original wheels to come back to. Stainless steel rims, black matte powder coat, polished stainless 60 spokes, black hubs and chrome baby moon hubcaps. We'll see what comes back ..

    Until then .. wheel side down

    Mud

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  20. #20
    20+ Posts
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Saint Louis, MO, USA
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    Default “Finished” my build

    Is anything ever finished?

    Sorry I have been incommunicado for a few months. Andrei Rybkin over at HD Wheels.com crushed it. Nice guy and really really knows his wheels and tires. Custom wheels were not cheap but high quality. Weird to be running tubes again, I feel like the last time I had tubes was my 1978 Honda CB550 learner bike.

    Check out these pics and if I can ever be of service to advise on your build please be sure to message me. Shout out to Rob and Trank at Doc’s H-D of St Louis MO for their hours of help as well. Could not have done it without them and Fuelmoto.
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