Electrical/Power Problem

[dartref]

4 years, 44,000 miles. While riding, the radio gets all "staticy", then a yellow light comes on, I lose electrical power and the bike shuts down. Wait a few seconds and it restarts. It does this several times, then goes away for a while. First time it happened each time just after 90 degree turns, both left and right. They replaced a chafed wire last month saying that should be the problem, and it was fine for a month. Today it started happening again, first after a turn, then several more times going straight. Nursed it back to the dealer. We'll see. Need to get this figured out before a big Florida to Ozarks trip in a few weeks.

[MDO]

4 years, 44,000 miles. While riding, the radio gets all "staticy", then a yellow light comes on, I lose electrical power and the bike shuts down. Wait a few seconds and it restarts. It does this several times, then goes away for a while. First time it happened each time just after 90 degree turns, both left and right. They replaced a chafed wire last month saying that should be the problem, and it was fine for a month. Today it started happening again, first after a turn, then several more times going straight. Nursed it back to the dealer. We'll see. Need to get this figured out before a big Florida to Ozarks trip in a few weeks.

I would start by insuring the battery is in good condition, that includes checking the battery cables for tightness at the terminals & the other end, especially the ground.

[Jack Klarich]

I am assuming you are seeing a check engine light?

You can scan your bike for codes here https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-...ble-codes.html

The dealer has a Digital Tech 2 scanner that we can not get, it views a lot more info on our bikes

[dartref]

I would start by insuring the battery is in good condition, that includes checking the battery cables for tightness at the terminals & the other end, especially the ground.

Battery and connections all good

[dartref]

I am assuming you are seeing a check engine light?

You can scan your bike for codes here https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-...ble-codes.html

The dealer has a Digital Tech 2 scanner that we can not get, it views a lot more info on our bikes

Dealer did that last time but apparently it didn't tell them what they need to know to fix the problem. They did say today that is the first thing they will check.

[Gorilla]

I'm wondering if they did not completely fix the problem and it chaffed again.

[Jack Klarich]

Dealer did that last time but apparently it didn't tell them what they need to know to fix the problem. They did say today that is the first thing they will check.

That sure is strange if in fact the dealer used the Digital Tech scanner. It would have showed them what module was setting the code. Even the self check test you can do at home would spit out some code, very puzzling answer from a dealer for sure

[dartref]

Update, they called today and said they were able to duplicate the problem while on the rack. They said it's the 50amp "maxi fuse" and that they have received some bulletins on it recently. The prongs on the fuse start small and are now worn, as well as whatever it plugs into being worn. When the current fuse is jiggled, the motorcycle loses power due to the loose connection. That would make sense since when it first started was always going around a turn and accelerating causing it to shift and vibrate away from the connections. They are ordering the replacement parts, putting it back together tomorrow and taking it for a 50-60 mile test ride. Hopefully this fixes the problem and my upcoming 3000 miles round trip to the Ozarks in a few weeks can be worry-free. Thanks for all the thoughts and ideas.

[MickUpi]

I'm not about to say it was not the fuse, they're probably right. However it also sounds a lot like a ground problem. I would get a good quality ohm meter. Grind off the paint on the frame just above the battery negative terminal. Put one lead here from the ohm meter. Put the other lead on the battery negative terminal. If the ohm meter does not read zero you have a ground problem.

[hogcowboy]

I'm not about to say it was not the fuse, they're probably right. However it also sounds a lot like a ground problem. I would get a good quality ohm meter. Grind off the paint on the frame just above the battery negative terminal. Put one lead here from the ohm meter. Put the other lead on the battery negative terminal. If the ohm meter does not read zero you have a ground problem.

What do you have to have the ohm meter set on? Certainly not continuity I wouldn't think. I'm totally ignorant when it comes to electricity which is causing a big problem preparing for a Ham license test.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

What do you have to have the ohm meter set on? Certainly not continuity I wouldn't think. I'm totally ignorant when it comes to electricity which is causing a big problem preparing for a Ham license test.

Pretty sure it would need to be set to measure resistance. And be very careful not to "accidentally" put the other lead on the + terminal ... talk about drama ... ... Tricity and I are not the best of Buds ... but ... most of the issues I have found are related to grounds.

[Jack Klarich]

What do you have to have the ohm meter set on? Certainly not continuity I wouldn't think. I'm totally ignorant when it comes to electricity which is causing a big problem preparing for a Ham license test.

Set your multimeter to the highest resistance range available. The resistance function is usually denoted by the unit symbol for resistance: the Greek letter omega (Ω), or sometimes by the word “ohms.” Touch the probes together to test the function, should read zero. Now you can test your circuit.

Do not test a live circuit set with the ohms reading

[hogcowboy]

[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;772473]Set your multimeter to the highest resistance range available. The resistance function is usually denoted by the unit symbol for resistance: the Greek letter omega (Ω), or sometimes by the word “ohms.” Touch the probes together to test the function, should read zero. Now you can test your circuit.

Do not test a live circuit set with the ohms reading[/QUOTE]

Got it it. Thanks. Me and electricity do not see eye to eye so I generally stay as far away as possible. But trying to study for a Ham license is filling my head full of electrical JUNK. So I might try applying some of new found info at some point. Sparks usually fly when I'm around the stuff so thanks for that last warning.