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Thread: V-Star 1100 Classic Trike project questions

  1. #1
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    Default V-Star 1100 Classic Trike project questions

    Greetings All

    I have a V-Star 1100 Classic that I want to convert to a Trike.

    I'm looking for info on which rear axle and diff ratio would be best to make this happen.

    This is a winter project for my sons and myself.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aurbo View Post
    Greetings All

    I have a V-Star 1100 Classic that I want to convert to a Trike.

    I'm looking for info on which rear axle and diff ratio would be best to make this happen.

    This is a winter project for my sons and myself.
    Welcome to Trike-Talk............
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

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    Can't help with your questions on your trike build but welcome to Trike Talk!
    "I don't need a map. I still have a road in front of me!"

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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Aurbo View Post
    Greetings All

    I have a V-Star 1100 Classic that I want to convert to a Trike.

    I'm looking for info on which rear axle and diff ratio would be best to make this happen.

    This is a winter project for my sons and myself.
    Aurbo, Welcome to Trike talk from West Virginia, USA.

    The ratio should be close to 3:1 on most shaft driven bikes.

    You will need to do some research since your drive is on the left side and rotates opposite of most conventional rear axles.

    Trike manufacturers sometimes flip the rear upside down to accommodate.

    There are some smaller 4X4 vehicles that use a reverse rotating differential that can fix this.

    Time for some homework.....
    Jim Murphy
    EX-Lehman & Champion Dealer Owner Operator
    Iron Butt Rider 2001

    WHEN HELP IS OFFERED, A SIMPLE "THANK YOU" IS APPRECIATED.

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    Welcome! Good luck with your project.
    New course heading Mr. Sulu: ...2nd star to the right and straight on til morning...!!

    Scooter and Sassi....2 furrever.

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    welcome aboard. I can not add anything that the expert Jim was not already stated. Good luck that is not a normal conversion.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    to Trike Talk, Best of luck on your project
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee H. Mann View Post
    Aurbo, Welcome to Trike talk from West Virginia, USA.

    The ratio should be close to 3:1 on most shaft driven bikes.

    You will need to do some research since your drive is on the left side and rotates opposite of most conventional rear axles.

    Trike manufacturers sometimes flip the rear upside down to accommodate.

    There are some smaller 4X4 vehicles that use a reverse rotating differential that can fix this.

    Time for some homework.....
    Thanks for the info.

    The shop manual for the VStar indicates a 2.875/1 ratio.

    I think I got lucky acquiring a mid '60 Ford 7.25" 3.08/1 for under a hundred bucks so, for now, This project is in the garage beginning this weekend.

    Shortening the axle carrier to around 42" then send the axles for a re-spline after trimming. I will have to flip the axle which may result in an even narrower axle base to keep the diff close to the output shaft.

    Re-use the rear pivot/wheel frame assembly as a base for the new axle yolk, replace the original mono shock for a dual mount.

    mini Truck box fabrication from sheet metal

    I'll try pressing my luck with a rerouted rear cylinder exhaust out the left side to even the exhaust appearance.

    This will either become a fun project or a slow way to create scrap metal!

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    I can tell you from experience the rear cylinder out the left is tricky and very tight due to the extreme bend.I had duals on mine years ago.Its been done better than I did by those with really great fab skills though.The side cover may or may not need to have mods for exhaust clearance.There is a section on a few different ways here https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1...ations/exhaust Post pics we love pics here.I may still have some of mine left.I made some changes that didn't work out and life happened and I sold everything off.I couldn't make myself really like it but its almost easier to bring the front out the left.Name:  0612101032.jpg
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    Do not argue with an idiot.He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Aurbo View Post
    Thanks for the info.

    The shop manual for the VStar indicates a 2.875/1 ratio.

    I think I got lucky acquiring a mid '60 Ford 7.25" 3.08/1 for under a hundred bucks so, for now, This project is in the garage beginning this weekend.

    Shortening the axle carrier to around 42" then send the axles for a re-spline after trimming. I will have to flip the axle which may result in an even narrower axle base to keep the diff close to the output shaft.

    Re-use the rear pivot/wheel frame assembly as a base for the new axle yolk, replace the original mono shock for a dual mount.

    mini Truck box fabrication from sheet metal

    I'll try pressing my luck with a rerouted rear cylinder exhaust out the left side to even the exhaust appearance.

    This will either become a fun project or a slow way to create scrap metal!
    SWINGARM

    The integrity of your build utilizing a straight axle is the swingarm. It needs to be rigid (stiff) enough that the weight of the motorcycle in turns will not be allowed to let the motorcycle frame to lean. If it leans, it is flexing and prone to immediate failure. You also need to make sure where the swingarm attaches to the motorcycle frame will not become a point of failure. Some trike manufacturers increase the pivot pin size to overcome the possibility of snapping where the pivot bearings are. The trick is making it strong enough and light enough with the limited room you have to work with.
    Jim Murphy
    EX-Lehman & Champion Dealer Owner Operator
    Iron Butt Rider 2001

    WHEN HELP IS OFFERED, A SIMPLE "THANK YOU" IS APPRECIATED.

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    Default Hi from the UK.

    Hi, i've got a vstar 1100 here in the UK that i built 8 years ago. We have a strange little 3 wheeled car over here called a Reliant Robin. Many trikers use the rear axle & driveshafts from these as the ratios are about right. They have to be turned upside down for the correct rotation but work really well.

    I'm now building a vstar 650 classic for my wife Tina. As it has mostly similar parts to the 1100 i thought i'd show you how i converted both swingarms. The 1100 has had no problems with handling or stress to the frame or swingarm & i don't see that the 650 will be any different. I did all the fabrication myself including making the axle brackets & being a coded welder, was quite a straightforward job.Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	93761Hope these are of interest. Bob.

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    Default back at it

    Greetings All

    It's been a few years but I am knee deep into this conversion now.

    1100 Classic, rescued from parked under a tree for 12 years! stripped down, rebuilt and ready for it's new life.

    propshaft/driveshaft question- the final drive wheel will be replaced with an Audi or BMW final drive unit so I need to sort this out. Any recommendations on how to convert the shaft to mate with an input flange?

    I know the u-joint requires a yoke flange, but I am unsure of the shaft side of things.. get the shaft shortened and re-splined, slip yoke with lock screws, weld the slip yoke?

    firebob22 - did you reuse the stock rear shock with the modified swingarm or did you weld it onto the frame?

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    Default Flange yoke search

    My intended differential input flange has the following dimensions;

    flange diameter = 114mm (4.48")

    6 bolt circle diameter = 94mm (3.7")

    pilot hole diameter = 72mm ( 2.83")bolts areM10 (.40")

    Any recommendations for a compatible flange yoke would be greatly appreciated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aurbo View Post
    Greetings All

    It's been a few years but I am knee deep into this conversion now.

    1100 Classic, rescued from parked under a tree for 12 years! stripped down, rebuilt and ready for it's new life.

    propshaft/driveshaft question- the final drive wheel will be replaced with an Audi or BMW final drive unit so I need to sort this out. Any recommendations on how to convert the shaft to mate with an input flange?

    I know the u-joint requires a yoke flange, but I am unsure of the shaft side of things.. get the shaft shortened and re-splined, slip yoke with lock screws, weld the slip yoke?

    firebob22 - did you reuse the stock rear shock with the modified swingarm or did you weld it onto the frame?
    There was a fellow that used the driveshaft out of a f150.If I remember right it was a late 90s but not sure.The ID of the f150 shaft was close to OD of the Yammy shaft.He was doing a XS1100.It gave him a workable flange style mounting. Went by DC Cryder I think. I have pics of the in several places.
    Do not argue with an idiot.He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
    Its dog eat dog world and i'm wearing milkbone underwear.
    1989 GL1500 Goldwing (SOLD)
    2006 GL1800 CSC

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    Default XVS1100 suspension.

    Hi Aurbo, sorry for the very late reply to your question. I had a custom suspension unit made that is the same dimensions as the original unit but has uprated spring & internals to handle the extra weight of an axle & wheels. It also has a remote preload adjuster as trying to adjust the original unit through the very small gap underneath the back of the seat was virtually impossible.

    The new unit works extremely well but was eye wateringly expensive! Worth it overall though. Good luck, Bob.

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