on some doors I have seen a fold down extension I don't know if that is an option in your situation but would add several more feet to the ramp.
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on some doors I have seen a fold down extension I don't know if that is an option in your situation but would add several more feet to the ramp.
2019 Goldwing CSC
No unfortunately. Something like that would have to be modded and I have seen some ideas on other RV forums. But using the 3 ramps, the ramp door felt very stable. And since they are lightweight, easy to move around. They are also 12" wide where the rear trike tires are 8" wide so that gives a little wiggle room. One thing, before I first used the car ramps, at one point, the rear tires must have spun a bit at bottom of ramp. They left a little mark, no damage but tread mark is now visible on the aluminum so it will make lining them up each time very simple. The center ramp then lines up with a small base mount for the patio gates that are also on the door for the times I want to use the ramp door as an outdoor patio. So it will be real easy each time to line up the car ramps perfectly. Maybe I can work out a better solution in the future but this will work just fine for now. What might also help is to snap a chaulk line from tip to bottom on one side that lines up with one of the car ramps for rear tire. That will aid when guiding the trike back down it.Originally Posted by woody
Ramp Loading Guide
I used non-skid safety tape on mine as a guide and to help with traction. You can get it at Home Dump or Lowes.
Kurt
Luckily the ramp itself has a bumpy what I would consider non skid surface. Where the spin happened was right at the end where it is still maybe an inch of aluminum as part of the outer frame. It only happened there the one time and it was prior to raising ramp with the car ramps. But now that it's "marked" it already gives me a guide to the car ramp placement.
I have the same ramp problems. Jacking up the front helped but not enough. I tried a couple 2x10s nailed together staggered under the ramp, like 2" steps. Too heavy and clunky.
We seldom use the patio. It's rated for 2000# of people, and should be strong enough to add 8" turnbuckles to the ramp cables to hold the ramp up a foot or two. For the extension, I laminated 30" x 84" x 1" thick foam board between two pieces 1/8 " plywood and trimmed it with 1-1/4 aluminum channel and Piano hinged it to the end of the ramp. The turnbuckles can be adjusted to position the extension an inch above the ground. It will sag when loaded.
The extra weight of the extension makes it harder to close the door. My door only had three springs but two more from Amazon lightened the load.
I later added thin aluminum plate to cover the ramp for strength and traction. You could replace the top plywood layer with 1/8" aluminum plate.
Total cost was less then $100. No pics, I will add one tomorrow.
That is what I was talking about and it looks good too.
2019 Goldwing CSC
I like that and it looks perfect. My only fear would be the cables for support although with both, they are supposed to be rated at 1500lbs. Thank you.
Beautiful . Enjoy your travels! Be Safe . BK
Easy and cheap to add heavier cable from a farm store or hardware. Watch the rating on the turnbuckes. Might need to go bigger or longer.
If weight on the ramp is a concern, I would just have a couple pre-made supports to place under each side of the hinge area. They only need to be a few inches high and would give you confidence using the ramp..... Jim
2005 Premium Mustang Convertible
2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike SOLD
2014 CanAm Spyder RTL SOLD
Semper Fi
If my idea didn't work, I was gonna bolt these on each side.
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