2013 rear master cylinder

[nokkon wud]

I read somewhere that there was a issue with some rear master cylinders on the 2013 TG. Anyone know about that?

I either read it here or at another forum but can't remember where.

My rear brakes are shot at 10K miles. Trike is new to me so no idea the past owners braking habits.

I ordered new rotors and pads. Hoping hardware comes with the pads.

Looking at things it appears that pad replacement is pretty straight forward and no special tools needed.

[rhino 2]

I read somewhere that there was a issue with some rear master cylinders on the 2013 TG. Anyone know about that?

I either read it here or at another forum but can't remember where.

My rear brakes are shot at 10K miles. Trike is new to me so no idea the past owners braking habits.

I ordered new rotors and pads. Hoping hardware comes with the pads.

Looking at things it appears that pad replacement is pretty straight forward and no special tools needed.

Bill i can't remember if i welcomed you to Trike-Talk before....So just in case....

Welcome To Trike-Talk..................

Just to add the previous owner might have run it a few times with the park brake not fully Disengaged...Thats not unheard of..

[Jack Klarich]

Welcome to Trike Talk

The rear master recall started with MY 2015

AS Bob stated the biggest problem with rear brakes is the adjustment of the parking brake, you can see it here

As brake pads begin to wear in, the parking brake pedal will move further when the parking brake is applied. Inspect and adjust the parking brake:

• At regular intervals. Refer to Maintenance Scheduling → Service Records → Regular Service Intervals: 2017 Trike Models.
  
• Periodically after extensive rear brake usage.
  
• After replacement of rear brake pads or other rear brake service.
  

NOTE

The following inspection and adjustment procedures can be used to adjust the parking brake between service intervals. For regular service intervals, see a Harley-Davidson dealer or service manual for complete maintenance instructions.



Inspection

1. Park vehicle (with normal load) on a steep incline. Turn ignition switch to OFF and shift transmission into first gear.
   
2. Apply front brake and cover rear brake pedal with right foot.
   
3. See Controls and Indicators → Parking Brake → Parking Brake. With the left foot, firmly push down the parking brake pedal until it cannot be pushed any further. The brake gives a number of clicks before reaching its maximum position.
   
4. With parking brake applied, release the front brake and gradually pull in the clutch lever.
   
5. The rear brakes should hold securely and the vehicle should remain still. See ADJUSTMENT to adjust parking brake as necessary.
   

Adjustment

1.	Place vehicle on a flat level surface.
2.	Release parking brake. Verify the vehicle moves easily when pushed by hand.
3.	See Figure 1. Pull the boot back. Loosen jamnut.
4.	Push the parking brake pedal to the first click. Attempt to roll the vehicle.a. If some resistance is felt, go to next step. b. If wheels turn freely, release parking brake and lengthen adjuster. Check and repeat until resistance is felt.
5.	Push the parking brake pedal two more clicks to the third click. Vehicle should not move when pushed. If wheels turn, release parking brake and lengthen adjuster. Check and repeat until wheels will not turn.
6.	Release the parking brake pedal. Verify vehicle moves freely.NOTE Apply a coat of grease to the adjuster threads to ease future adjustments.
7.	Hold adjuster and tighten jamnut to 8.1–13.6 N·m (72–120 in-lbs).
8.	Install the boot over the adjuster.
9.	See INSPECTION to check performance of the adjusted parking brake.

View interactive image

1	First notch
2	Jamnut
3	Adjuster

Figure 1. Parking Brake Adjustment

[prariepilot]

Hey, Jack! it's a 2013 TG. Has the funky handle on the right side, not the pedal on the left.

I had the same/similar problem with my 2013 TG when new. The problem originated with a lazy bunch of H-D Techs that would back the set screw out of the handle, tighten the knob, retighten the set screw and declare the parking brake adjusted!. The manual calls for the parking brake adjustment be done at the rear calipers with the wheels off. Needless to say, 9K and my rotors and pads were all chewed up to the tune of $900!

Immediately after the new pads/rotors, the parking brake assembly came off the TG and went in a bin on the shelf! No more botched adjustments; no adjustments at all!

My spouse made a one inch wide by fifteen inch long Velcro strap to wrap around the front brake lever. Works like a charm for parking or working on the bike!

[nokkon wud]

Hey, Jack! it's a 2013 TG. Has the funky handle on the right side, not the pedal on the left.

I had the same/similar problem with my 2013 TG when new. The problem originated with a lazy bunch of H-D Techs that would back the set screw out of the handle, tighten the knob, retighten the set screw and declare the parking brake adjusted!. The manual calls for the parking brake adjustment be done at the rear calipers with the wheels off. Needless to say, 9K and my rotors and pads were all chewed up to the tune of $900!

Immediately after the new pads/rotors, the parking brake assembly came off the TG and went in a bin on the shelf! No more botched adjustments; no adjustments at all!

My spouse made a one inch wide by fifteen inch long Velcro strap to wrap around the front brake lever. Works like a charm for parking or working on the bike!

The guy I bought it from put less than a block on it when he put his foot down doing a u turn, compound fracture and 7 broken ribs from when the trike rolled over him. Alcohol was involved. His neighbor pushed it into his garage before the cops and fire trucks showed up and the guy never sat on it again. It sat for a year and a half I have no idea what the history before that is.

I can say the E brake is loose and has no stopping power.

I just ordered 2 new rotors a set of EBCHH pads and hope the new hardware comes with them.

I'm thinking losing the E brake and using a Velcro strap will work just fine. Living in Florida I don't have many hills.

The trike was stock with about 8K miles on it when I bought it a month or so ago.

So far I have put on a trailer hitch that has a cargo rack. A tour pack top rack, Lift kit, 14" shocks, bumper, floor board extensions { I have big feet so extensions are great!} and lifted the gas tank.

Waiting on front progressive struts which I have on my 03 RKC and like very much.

Need to do something with the seat and handlebars. I have a set of Kustom 2+2 wide sweepers on the shelf. Anyone know if I need to change cables or wires for them?

Mostly we ride 2 up most weekends out in the boonies and do a 2-3 day weekender each month. We also like to get a couple week to 10 day rides in every year.

First trike and for the same reason everyone else has one.

And thanks for the welcome everyone!

[Gorilla]

welcome bill what you are doing you are on the right track.

[rhino 2]

I'm thinking losing the E brake and using a Velcro strap will work just fine. Living in Florida I don't have many hills.

And thanks for the welcome everyone!

Just park it in gear [1st.].....And it isn't going anywhere.....I never use the park brake unless i have to park on a steep incline....

[nokkon wud]

Replaced the rotors and pads. Someone in the past put the inner pad on inside out to the backing plate was against the rotor. Not sure why a trike with less than 7K miles needed new pads. They also replaced the lines to the calipers.

I scuffed up the new rotors and put a bit of cross hatch in them. Trike stops nice now.

I took the Ebrake off completely.

For my next trick I am going to try and move the tour pack back some. DK's kit starts at 2014 but mines a 2013.

Took the pack off and it looks to me like I need to move the bracket back on the body by drilling 6 new holes. Am I thinking that correct?

[ultrafxr]

Replaced the rotors and pads. Someone in the past put the inner pad on inside out to the backing plate was against the rotor. Not sure why a trike with less than 7K miles needed new pads. They also replaced the lines to the calipers.

I scuffed up the new rotors and put a bit of cross hatch in them. Trike stops nice now.

I took the Ebrake off completely.

For my next trick I am going to try and move the tour pack back some. DK's kit starts at 2014 but mines a 2013.

Took the pack off and it looks to me like I need to move the bracket back on the body by drilling 6 new holes. Am I thinking that correct?

That's what a friend did on his 2018 TG. Not sure if his bracket was same as yours or how many holes but he did drill new holes in the trike body to move the entire setup back. BTW I do think Kevin/DK has a relo kit for your TG . . . or if not there should be some available if you 'google.'

[nokkon wud]

[/COLOR][/B]That's what a friend did on his 2018 TG. Not sure if his bracket was same as yours or how many holes but he did drill new holes in the trike body to move the entire setup back. BTW I do think Kevin/DK has a relo kit for your TG . . . or if not there should be some available if you 'google.'

I haven't been able to find anything.

I read that I should only have to drill 2 holes but I can't see how that would work here.

It's not that big of a deal now but when we go to WY, MT, Ut and CO my Florida girl will be layering up.

I'd rather move her back than lose my back rest.

Figure as long as I'm putting parts on I can get this done.

On the plus side my Progressive fronts arrived!

[Zammy]

9-13 tour pack relocator

https://www.dkcustomproducts.com/rel...k-0911-tpr.htm

[nokkon wud]

9-13 tour pack relocator

https://www.dkcustomproducts.com/rel...k-0911-tpr.htm

DK said that won't work.