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ken g9Old Road DogHarley Tri Glidereverse not working
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Thread: New/old problem

  1. #1
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    Default New/old problem

    I have rebuilt a trike wrecked a Champion kit and now has Harley DNA rear end. The champion set up worked awesome. It is a Yamaha 1700 which i bought triked and wrecked. I couldn't get another replacement Champion kit so I bought the DNA Harley and a shop ADAPTED it. The kit came with dual piston calipers and would never get right. Would either lock up and release after time or not stop it. Since the old kit had single piston calipers i changed it back to single pistons. have bled, changed master and now it will stop but to get good (has never been great since Champion kit) if i pump it a couple times. you can feel it initially engage but to truly stop it needs to be pumped a couple times. Have tried a proportioning valve and didnt do a noticeable thing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kook View Post
    I have rebuilt a trike wrecked a Champion kit and now has Harley DNA rear end. The champion set up worked awesome. It is a Yamaha 1700 which i bought triked and wrecked. I couldn't get another replacement Champion kit so I bought the DNA Harley and a shop ADAPTED it. The kit came with dual piston calipers and would never get right. Would either lock up and release after time or not stop it. Since the old kit had single piston calipers i changed it back to single pistons. have bled, changed master and now it will stop but to get good (has never been great since Champion kit) if i pump it a couple times. you can feel it initially engage but to truly stop it needs to be pumped a couple times. Have tried a proportioning valve and didnt do a noticeable thing.
    Did you use a proportioning valve or a residual valve? The residual valve for a disk brake system would be correct.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    As I am not sure I believe it is a residual valve (comes in 10 and 4 lbs) as far as I can tell. If that isn’t correct point me to the correct thing!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kook View Post
    As I am not sure I believe it is a residual valve (comes in 10 and 4 lbs) as far as I can tell. If that isn’t correct point me to the correct thing!
    I have a old sportster trike with a hardtail I put a DNA axle in it Dual rear pistons calipers , I put a 4lbs residual valve on it it stopped that problem , before that I would have to pump the brake 3 - 4 times .

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    I am wondering, if I place a 2# proportioning valve after the split going to each wheel, would that be the answer. I had a 10# on it after the master cylinder at first and that wasn’t effective? Any answers would be helpful!

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    I am wondering, if I place a 2# proportioning valve after the split going to each wheel, would that be the answer. I had a 10# on it after the master cylinder at first and that wasn’t effective? Any answers would be helpful! It runs from the master cylinder to the axle. There it splits to each rear wheel. It has been bled and uses the same master as was on it before. It originally had the single piston calipers but the kit came with dual pistons. As they were not doing I went back to single pistons. The brakes do work to slow but takes time to stop it. The champion brakes would lock it up. The prior shop had a 10 lb proportion valve right after the master and when I removed it it seemed to not change anything. Any suggestions beyond that?

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