Passenger Floorboard 96SE 1500

[Triker Mike]

Are the passenger floorboards hard to take off? I need to replace the rubber boots on both sides. And my haynes doesn;t even mention them:Shrug:

 

[Scalp Hunter]

On my 1800 it was just 2 bolts and they wre off. Don't know about the 1500, but it has got to be similar or the same.

 

[Ozarkryder]

I replaced the floorboards on Her Purpleness, a 1995 gl1500SE, with Kury transformer boards a few years ago. They weren't hard , but they are a but fussy to work on. I remember I had to leave the mount on the bike as there are cables going to a lever to unlock the boards to raise or lower them. They were easier to work on raised, IIRC. The factory manual is a valuable tool to own, even if you have othe manuals. They all seem to cover similar things in different ways. Get one on ebay, at the Honda dealer, or download one at goldwingdocs.com.
I would scan the relevant page and email it, but my scanner is for the gone XP box, and won't work with my Windows 7 machine.
This may help- an exploded diagram of the floorboards from Bike Bandit:

1996 Honda GL1500SE GOLD WING SE Parts, 1996 Honda GL1500SE GOLD WING SE OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Triker Mike]

Ozarkryder Thanks I thought honda put a block on the on line manual .So off I go to do some downloading

 

[Ozarkryder]

Ozarkryder Thanks I thought honda put a block on the on line manual .So off I go to do some downloading

I think you may be right - looks like you have to get a manual from a third party and pay for it. At one time download was free, but...

Hope the exploded drawing on Bike Bandit helps. I put that in my favorites - the schematics are free, and a great resource. I've even ordered from them out of apprecciatipn for the exploded view parts drawings.

 

[Triker Mike]

I also put it in my favs.Thanks again. Am I reading it right $63.00 for the rubber boot? At that rate I'll either go without or find an alternative

 

[Biwing]

On my '95 Se there are two small slotted machine screws under the outside edge that needed to be removed to allow the rubber boot to be slid up. The bottom of it is tin and must be slid away from the bike some then up.
After the boot is loose at the bottom, you can get to the two allen head screws that mount the footrest to the frame.
After removing them, the release cables must be disconnected then the footrest is free of the bike.
All of this is best done with the rest released into the upper position at the start.

Hope that this has helped.

Rich