Anybody use something like this to lift the rear of the trike? I looks like it would work good to lift the rear and then put jack stands under it to hold it up.
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Floor jack cross beam to lift rear of Tri-Glide
Anybody use something like this to lift the rear of the trike? I looks like it would work good to lift the rear and then put jack stands under it to hold it up.
I’ve used a cut 2x4 and floor Jack for many years , along with tire ramps .
2012 Triglide Piaggio MP3 500 to get groceries 1991 FLHS as back up
"Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it !"
Tiffany, Olive, Daisy, “The Three Musketeers” together again.
How about a photo? That seems like a great, cheap solution.Originally Posted by 1dn5up
Don’t have photos , but between the mufflers is a cross brace . Lift there with the 2x4 on lift. If not centered it will teeter …
2012 Triglide Piaggio MP3 500 to get groceries 1991 FLHS as back up
"Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it !"
Tiffany, Olive, Daisy, “The Three Musketeers” together again.
I use the 2x4 between the mufflers and then Jack stands
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2021 Tri Glide Ultra Vivid Black with some Farkles.
I found a video of someone using the crossbeam and lifting the trike/
He comes in from the primary side at a angle and lifts it. I wonder if you can rig something and come in from the rear and lift the entire trike? Id like to bring both sides up at the same time level.
"I’ve used a cut 2x4 and floor Jack for many years , along with tire ramps"
I'd like to see a couple of pixs of that myself.
You can see a couple of different ways to lift the rear of the trike in the video below.
I like to lift it from the rear, with a jack, then put jack stands under each side for maximum stability/safety. All this is shown in the video.
Kevin
I just got one of those for just lifting the trike. Wont fit under the trike at all! Maybe it will if the lift kit was installed but as it sits from the factory it wont. And I do have a new low profile jack. If you look at the way the guy on you tube has his jack you'll see he's using it after its on ramps which will work to get the ramps out.
Most of the time- like for fluid changes I use 3 car ramps. Put anti skid tape on the front one fore and aft to keep it from skeeching out when I run up it. My HF yellow bike lift will raise the whole trike up! Problem is as the trike service manual says to position it under the derby cover engaging the frame- the rear end lifts up but the front wheel nose dives so I put a piece of 4 × 4 under the front wheel. If lifting the front the rear end will dive so a piece of 4×4 vertically with carpet under the bumper levels it out. Anyway in order to get the lift to clear the frame some 1×4 under each wheel works well. I've also used a couple of 1 ton bottle jacks and pieces of 2x4 under the lifting points as shown in the video and you wont have a floor jack in way.
I use a J & S trike jack, works for me and it is good for winter storage also, wheels off the ground
All for now Trampas
With the J & S jack lift it up and then lower slowly onto jack stands
I made a lifting block a while back and while it worked ok I thought about some improvements. So yesterday I made a new one incorporating those improvements.
It is a 4x4 piece of wood I use to lift the rear of the trike by placing it under the rear frame crossmember. If you don't have any 4x4 lumber you can screw two pieces of 2x4 together. I cut it 12 1/8 inches long since this is the maximum width that will fit between the stock oem mufflers. I want it to fill the gap so I can mark the centerline and use that as a lifting point for the saddle on my floor jack. That way I can minimize the listing to either port or starboard as I jack the trike.
Now I don't want it to be able to slip off the crossmember so I added 2x4s on either side to create a channel for the crossmember to sit in. The 2x4s stand 7/8" proud over the lifting block. This is the maximum height so as not to contact the trike body before the lifting block contacts the crossmember. I secured the 2x4s with deck screws since I had these already on hand.
I've tried all different methods - 2x4 running between the crossmember rails, lifting blocks for the tie down loops which require two jacks or lots ov moving for one jack, etc. This seems to work the best of all I've tried. Hope it helps and appreciate any ideas to improve.
That looks really nice Jerry. I'll have to do a lil improvement on mine now. thanks
Anyone have a clear photo of the rear frame crossmember? I’m new to trikes and don’t want to screw anything up. Thanks, Al.
With the body removed you can see the cross members
Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
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Kevin, thanks for the video in post #7. Did you just use 2 - 2x4's on top of the floor jack?
ultra fxr, thanks for the pixs. That looks like the easiest way to lift the rear of the trike.
I found a video of the the wood blocks used to lift the trike one wheel at a time. He shows it at 7:43 in the video then he shows how he made them.
The J$S trike jack would be perfect. I have one for my ultra it works great. To bad it can not convert it to work on the trike.
Yes, 2x4's is what we use between the jack and the crossmember.
Kevin
Hey, I recognize that dirty TG.With the body removed you can see the cross members
Kevin
The vape device on the passenger footboard is a dead giveaway!Hey, I recognize that dirty TG.
Kevin
haha, good eye. I did not see that at first.
Kevin
Looking at Kevin's Trike pic - do you see any problem using the first cross member [nearest the bumper]? - the second in cross member is closer to the reinforced right angle braced frame, may be a better choice, as it closer to the load and reinforcement. Which are you using? Another thought, if you use the second cross member for jacking and the first member for the stabilizing jacks. [ would you have enough room to place the stabilizing jacks and then remove the floor jack?]
Ron
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