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Thread: 2014 rear brakes

  1. #1
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    Default 2014 rear brakes

    Hello everyone,

    Looking for detailed, step by step instructions on removal and replacing rear brakes and rotors on 2014 triglide as I am doing the job myself. All help appreciated. Also, does the black coating on J&P rotors have to be removed?

    Thanks everyone

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    650+ Posts Notgrownup's Avatar
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    Do not apply the parking brake, ckock the front wheel, Jack the bike, remove the wheel, I think you will need 10mm 12 point socket. Undo the bolts, remove the caliper, clean around the Piston with brake cleaner and a toothbrush. Spray brake cleaner liberally, let dry. Make sure you lubricate the touch points with a disk brake lube. I like to use disk brake quiet on the back of the pads. Lubricant on the caliper pins, re install making sure the clips are installed and lubricated. Torque the pins to no more than 30 lbs/ sq in. Re install the wheel. Repeat on the other side. Clean the pad surface and rotor with brake cleaner. Also make sure there is no debris on the rotor or the mount area.

    I would try to find a trike service manual supplement… it comes very handy.

    Damn, I just realized where you are.. lol
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    Quote Originally Posted by 14triglide View Post
    Hello everyone,

    Looking for detailed, step by step instructions on removal and replacing rear brakes and rotors on 2014 triglide as I am doing the job myself. All help appreciated. Also, does the black coating on J&P rotors have to be removed?

    Thanks everyone
    Yes‘Remove the black coating…If you don’t remove it’ The coating will cake up in the pads and then the first few stops you will have limited stopping power….(Brake cleaner and a rag will remove it)…
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    Yes‘Remove the black coating…If you don’t remove it’ The coating will cake up in the pads and then the first few stops you will have limited stopping power….(Brake cleaner and a rag will remove it)…
    Nope, not true this is misinformation at best

    It is an anti rust agent and will slowly disappear with several brake cycles
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    Nope, not true this is misinformation at best

    It is an anti rust agent and will slowly disappear with several brake cycles
    I know it’s an anti-rust agent also I know it will diminish your breaking ability till it is dissipated/disappears…… !
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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  6. DKCustoms postbit
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    I know it’s an anti-rust agent also I know it will diminish your breaking ability till it is dissipated/disappears…… !
    Nope, over the thousands of axles I have done including high end imports NEVER a problem, I wash them off from out of the box with hot soapy water, blow them dry with a dry ( water trap filtered) air line and install them

    I have seen guys ruin the machined finish on a rotor by sanding this coating off
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    Nope, over the thousands of axles I have done including high end imports NEVER a problem, I wash them off from out of the box with hot soapy water, blow them dry with a dry ( water trap filtered) air line and install them

    I have seen guys ruin the machined finish on a rotor by sanding this coating off
    Who said anything about sanding????.. I said break cleaner and a rag…(Nowhere did I mention sanding nor would I ever do ) Even when I have changed rotors that did not have that coating I would use brake cleaner just to remove any grease/oils from handing them with mechanics hands…
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    Who said anything about sanding????.. I said break cleaner and a rag…(Nowhere did I mention sanding nor would I ever do ) Even when I have changed rotors that did not have that coating I would use brake cleaner just to remove any grease/oils from handing them with mechanics hands…
    I never said you said sanding, I am telling you what I learned and what I know to be true

    All brake cleaners are NOT created equal, If I do use it I always wash down the brake cleaned rotors with hot soapy water

    It is what I know works for sure and is how I taught my brake classes

    I use the same cleaning process for wheel bearings BUT ( never let the bearings spin ) when blowing them dry, very bad JUJU
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notgrownup View Post
    Do not apply the parking brake, ckock the front wheel, Jack the bike, remove the wheel, I think you will need 10mm 12 point socket. Undo the bolts, remove the caliper, clean around the Piston with brake cleaner and a toothbrush. Spray brake cleaner liberally, let dry. Make sure you lubricate the touch points with a disk brake lube. I like to use disk brake quiet on the back of the pads. Lubricant on the caliper pins, re install making sure the clips are installed and lubricated. Torque the pins to no more than 30 lbs/ sq in. Re install the wheel. Repeat on the other side. Clean the pad surface and rotor with brake cleaner. Also make sure there is no debris on the rotor or the mount area.

    I would try to find a trike service manual supplement… it comes very handy.

    Damn, I just realized where you are.. lol
    Notgrownup, Yep just down the road. What are you using for disc brake lube? 30 ft/lbs or 30 in/lbs on caliper pins?

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    Does the caliper piston have to be pushed or screwed back in? Will the E-brake have to be readjusted?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 14triglide View Post
    Does the caliper piston have to be pushed or screwed back in? Will the E-brake have to be readjusted?
    Once you get the pads off you will be able to tell if the puck needs to be pushed or screwed in. There will be two holes in the puck to screw it in. My 19 Tri Glide needs to be screwed in, I'm not sure about yours . I just use a pair of needle nose pliers and it works well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 14triglide View Post
    Does the caliper piston have to be pushed or screwed back in? Will the E-brake have to be readjusted?
    If you undo the parking brake adjustment it will loosen it a bit. I use permatex in a tube I think. I just picked it up at Advance Auto. It is in a light purple tube for the lube.The discbrake quiet is red tube

    Tbere are probably some good YouTube videos. I got the manuals
    Be who your dog thinks you are.
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    I have K&W disc brake quiet spray and High temp copper anti-seize.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 14triglide View Post
    I have K&W disc brake quiet spray and High temp copper anti-seize.
    A light coat of the copper anti seize will work on the back of the brake pads, caliper grease can be used on the slide pins, this can be found for under 2 bucks @ most Auto parts stores
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notgrownup View Post
    If you undo the parking brake adjustment it will loosen it a bit. I use permatex in a tube I think. I just picked it up at Advance Auto. It is in a light purple tube for the lube.The discbrake quiet is red tube

    Tbere are probably some good YouTube videos. I got the manuals
    Notgrownup: do the rear caliper pistons screw in or push in? If they screw in does one side screw in clockwise and one counter clockwise?

    Thanks

  17. DKCustoms postbit
  18. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 14triglide View Post
    Notgrownup: do the rear caliper pistons screw in or push in? If they screw in does one side screw in clockwise and one counter clockwise?

    Thanks
    With my 2011 triglide I just pushed them back in…I also opened up the brake reservoir cap to relieve some pressure when pushing the pucks back in..?..(Packed rags around the reservoir brake fluid eats paint)
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by 14triglide View Post
    Notgrownup: do the rear caliper pistons screw in or push in? If they screw in does one side screw in clockwise and one counter clockwise?

    Thanks
    They will both screw in clockwise

    I like to clean the pistons before setting them back in the caliper bores, you can use brake clean around the dust boot before, this will keep dust and any brake residue from getting into the calipers

    I do not like to screw in or push( depending on your set up), I open the bleeder screws and as you move the piston in the old fluid gets removed instead of back to the master cylinder

    Clean off the top of the master cylinder, use a syringe or a clean cloth rag to remove as much of the old fluid as you can, wipe out the inside of the master cylinder before refilling

    Slowly pump the pedal( no more than 1/2 the stroke) crack open the bleeders and watch for air bubbles, repeat until you see no more bubbles

    Check your fluid level, confirm a good pedal, go for a ride, avoid quick stops for a few miles as the pads bed in

    Bobs post #16 is a very good idea to keep the brake fluid from eating any painted surfaces

    Good Luck
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  20. #18
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    I didnt have to push mine in, the parking brake has something to do with it as well. If it’s loose the pads will install easier
    Be who your dog thinks you are.
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  21. #19
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    The pads I replaced were worn pretty good. The new pads were so much thicker than the old pads they wouldn't fit in the same space the old pads were in. I had no choice but to screw the pucks in.
    2019 TriGlide, Twisted Cherry. Khrome Werks 2+2 bars, Eagle Lights front and rear
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    Anyone know what the torque specs for caliper bracket bolts and caliper pin/slider bolts?

    Rotors and pads look fine. Going to clean, lube and reassemble. Plan to use blue thread locker on bolts.

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