MT drive shaft

[vinnieD]

Recently bought an 06 goldwing with Motor trike conversion. This is the Spyder version with solid axle and ladder bars. Has the older drive shaft with no zirc fittings for u-joints. Trike runs very smooth as it has less than 7000 miles.

Just wondering if I could get some of you out there to give me your experience with this older type of drive shaft and what kind of mileage you have gotten with no problems. Have just ordered the new MT drive shaft to have on hand but would really like some feedback on what to expect from the original that was installed at time of conversion.

Appreciate any feedback.

thanks, Vinnie

[GoldWingrGreg]

If you don't have, be sure to download a MT's Owner's Manual. I believe they want the drive shaft inspected and lubed every 6,000 miles. In the trike world, that means it absolutly needs done no later then every 6,000 miles. It also means earlier is far better then late.

If you've not done that since owning it, be sure to remove, clean, inspect, and lube it. You may or may not be surprised at what you find. On the older drive shafts, be sure to "time" the u-joints.

On some, if the front u-joint fails, it can cause serious damage to the inner frame rail.

[cycle7447]

Recently bought an 06 goldwing with Motor trike conversion. This is the Spyder version with solid axle and ladder bars. Has the older drive shaft with no zirc fittings for u-joints. Trike runs very smooth as it has less than 7000 miles.

Just wondering if I could get some of you out there to give me your experience with this older type of drive shaft and what kind of mileage you have gotten with no problems. Have just ordered the new MT drive shaft to have on hand but would really like some feedback on what to expect from the original that was installed at time of conversion.

Appreciate any feedback.

thanks, Vinnie

Good luck Sir. Wow, a 06 Wing with less than 7000 miles. About 400 or so miles per year.

[vinnieD]

Thanks for the tip Greg, will do as recommended. I did download the MT service manual and the only part to be lubricated is the splines in center of two piece drive shaft. Of course u-joints need to be closely looked at also as they are critical to proper operation.

I wish I was a little more comfortable with dis-assembly of u-joints to lubricate the needle bearings but I would probably mess it up.

[GoldWingrGreg]

Thanks for the tip Greg, will do as recommended. I did download the MT service manual and the only part to be lubricated is the splines in center of two piece drive shaft. Of course u-joints need to be closely looked at also as they are critical to proper operation.

I wish I was a little more comfortable with dis-assembly of u-joints to lubricate the needle bearings but I would probably mess it up.

The front yoke of their newest drive shaft is green in color. The front u-joint is larger, and both u-joints have zerks for lubing. For a dirve shaft, MotorTrike sells them at a very resonable price, and it's advisable that you upgrade to their newer design.

[vinnieD]

Thanks again Greg.

I did order the new style drive shaft from MT and received it yesterday. I will attempt to install this weekend.

[Vulcanscott]

If you don't have, be sure to download a MT's Owner's Manual. I believe they want the drive shaft inspected and lubed every 6,000 miles. In the trike world, that means it absolutly needs done no later then every 6,000 miles. It also means earlier is far better then late.

If you've not done that since owning it, be sure to remove, clean, inspect, and lube it. You may or may not be surprised at what you find. On the older drive shafts, be sure to "time" the u-joints.

On some, if the front u-joint fails, it can cause serious damage to the inner frame rail.

Have you noticed are the IRS conversions as hard on driveshafts since the angle does not change much ?

[GoldWingrGreg]

Have you noticed are the IRS conversions as hard on driveshafts since the angle does not change much ?

What I have noticed is that there new green version has a larger front u-joint with a zerk to lube it. However, even with that one, be sure to follow there maintanence schedule.

[3W-lonerider]

What I have noticed is that there new green version has a larger front u-joint with a zerk to lube it. However, even with that one, be sure to follow there maintanence schedule.

another difference in the new shaft is.

the original had the long shaft going unto the output shaft which put the ujoint further from the trans. the problem with that is any wear whatsoever and the shaft would go into an eliptical osolation instead of running true. by putting the short shaft in front puts the ujoint closer to the trans and has alot less chance of going into an eliptical motion.

[vinnieD]

Somewhat disappointed nobody with older MT conversion was able to comment on the amount of miles they got with older drive shaft before encountering a problem with u-joints.

Ordered, received, and installed new version drive shaft from MT and will check new drive shaft for play and lube u-joints every 4000 miles going forward.

[3W-lonerider]

Somewhat disappointed nobody with older MT conversion was able to comment on the amount of miles they got with older drive shaft before encountering a problem with u-joints.

Ordered, received, and installed new version drive shaft from MT and will check new drive shaft for play and lube u-joints every 4000 miles going forward.

i had the older drive shaft for 100,000 miles before converting to the new shaft. i had to replace the front ujoint every 40,000 not because of ujoint failure but because of the ujoint being back away from the output shaft that it would wear out the yoke that slides unto the output shaft. the shaft would go into an elliptical motion and cause all kinds of vibration. when that would happen it would destroy a ujoint in a matter of a couple thousand miles.

the last time i rode it with the old shaft i checked it before going on a 1000 mile trip. i knew there was alittle play in the yoke that slides unto the output shaft but it wasn't bad enough to worry about it. after 500 miles the vibration became bad. checked the drive shaft again and found 1 ujoint cup gone out of the yoke. till i got home after riding like that for another 500 miles there were 2 cups missing from the yoke. thats when i decided to bite the bullet and get the new shaft.

[Vulcanscott]

are there any modifications made when installing the new shaft due to the diamiter etc. new shaft is on the way . i noticed the driveshaft loop is close to the old shaft. my trike is IRS

[3W-lonerider]

are there any modifications made when installing the new shaft due to the diamiter etc. new shaft is on the way . i noticed the driveshaft loop is close to the old shaft. my trike is IRS

should not be any mods you have to do. remove old shaft and install new one. the new shaft splines are designed to only go togather one way. so there is no way to get the ujoints out of sync.

[cantom]

should not be any mods you have to do. remove old shaft and install new one. the new shaft splines are designed to only go togather one way. so there is no way to get the ujoints out of sync.

Hello people. I am seriously after a 2000 Honda GL1500 with Lehman solid axle. It has 125,000 km on it.

Current owner knows nothing about driveshafts, hasn't ridden it much.

This driveshaft talk is making me nervous. Is there any improved driveshaft available anywhere that I can retrofit into my 1500?

A setup with zerks and easy to remove would be really nice.

Should I give this turkey a miss?

[cantom]

Hello people. I am seriously after a 2000 Honda GL1500 with Lehman solid axle. It has 125,000 km on it.

Current owner knows nothing about driveshafts, hasn't ridden it much.

This driveshaft talk is making me nervous. Is there any improved driveshaft available anywhere that I can retrofit into my 1500?

Should I give this turkey a miss?

The trike needs a pinion seal in the rear end to certify.

Nobody will even discuss installing a new seal, let alone actually do it.

No service available, at all.

All shops are terrified of working on anything on which their mechanics could be hurt or inconvenienced. They have no way to lift it on their hoist.

[Marc H]

The trike needs a pinion seal in the rear end to certify.

Nobody will even discuss installing a new seal, let alone actually do it.

No service available, at all.

All shops are terrified of working on anything on which their mechanics could be hurt or inconvenienced. They have no way to lift it on their hoist.

I think most used Pinto or Mustang rears.I would check with independent auto shops or old school real mechanics.They might do it.

[pelon]

Somewhat disappointed nobody with older MT conversion was able to comment on the amount of miles they got with older drive shaft before encountering a problem with u-joints.

Ordered, received, and installed new version drive shaft from MT and will check new drive shaft for play and lube u-joints every 4000 miles going forward.

Do you have the contact info for MT ?

[GoldWingrGreg]

The trike needs a pinion seal in the rear end to certify.

Nobody will even discuss installing a new seal, let alone actually do it.

No service available, at all.

All shops are terrified of working on anything on which their mechanics could be hurt or inconvenienced. They have no way to lift it on their hoist.

You have a 4th gen (GL1500) Wing with a Leman trike kit. Most shops will no longer even work on 5th gen (GL1800) Leman Trike. The reason is simple. The company, Leman, no longer exists, and parts support is little to nil. That means that a shop might easily get involved with working on one only to find that out. Sometimes parts can be aquired by having them custom made. If true, the trike takes up valuable work space for possibly weeks or months. I know of no shop that will work on the Leman trike half of a Leman trike. Sometimes the lost income is incredable.

For example ... if a shop is expected to produce $30,000 per bay per month, and a trike sits for 2 months, while it takes up space, that's a $60,000 loss. Your best bet is to find a really large shop with plenty of work room, that is willing to work on a Leman trike, that's currently extreemly slow, and hardup for work. Or find one that is farmilure the work needing done and already has figured out how and where to sorce parts from.

[cjmitch]

Recently bought an 06 goldwing with Motor trike conversion. This is the Spyder version with solid axle and ladder bars. Has the older drive shaft with no zirc fittings for u-joints. Trike runs very smooth as it has less than 7000 miles.

Just wondering if I could get some of you out there to give me your experience with this older type of drive shaft and what kind of mileage you have gotten with no problems. Have just ordered the new MT drive shaft to have on hand but would really like some feedback on what to expect from the original that was installed at time of conversion.

thanks, Vinnie

get rid of it.... NOW

get the green one, this is one of those things that wont go bad until it actually DOES go bad

[GoldWingrGreg]

Till i got home after riding like that for another 500 miles there were 2 cups missing from the yoke. thats when i decided to bite the bullet and get the new shaft.

You're lucky that it didn't start chewing into the frame rail and break out some cross members.