Diagnostic Fault Code Issues

[keikat2]

For the past two (2) weeks, my 2014 Tri-Glide has come down with a "bad case" of Diagnostic Fault Codes. Initially, the DTC codes were identified as U0001 (Can Bus Error), U0002 (Can Bus Perf Error), U0142 (Lost Comm w/RHCM) in each of the ECM, BCM, SPDO, and RAD monitoring areas. Also, Code U0156 (Lost Comm w/SPEEDO) was identified in the BCM area only. About the middle of last week, Codes b2141 (Left Front Turn Signal Open) and b2146 (Right Front Turn Signal Open) appeared in the BCM codes list along with Codes 2122 (TGS1 Low/Open), P2127 (TGS2 Low/Open), and P2138 (TGS Correlation Error-Twist Grip Sensor) in the ECM area.

After several days of checking for loose Molex wire connectors, I think I now have resolved all the "U" codes and Codes b2141 and b2146 identifying two (2) Left and Right Turn Signal accessory wire connectors each plugged into their counterpart primary Left and Right Turn Signal wire connector. Also, after removing, taking apart, and cleaning the two (2) plug-in wire contact points of the Right-Hand Handlebar Control Switch, I was able to successfully "CLEAR" codes P2122, P2127, and P2138 without the Codes returning. During the process of checking each MOLEX connector that might be possibly causing the aforementioned fault code issues, sometimes the dash's "Security" red light and "Check Engine" yellow static light would come back on and stay on. However, sometimes if I turned the handlebar left-to-right and right-to-left the "Security" red light would disappear followed by the "Check Engine" yellow static light disappearing as well. Also, sometimes the Trike's engine would crank/start and sometimes it would not turn-over or make a sound.

After all the aforementioned fault codes have either disappeared or been "cleared", using the DIAG monitoring process, and have not returned, DTC Codes P0120 (TPS Range Error), P0220 (TPS2 Range Error), and P02135 (TPS Correlation Error), which appeared last Saturday, now remain and cannot be cleared. Also, when powered on, the dash's "Check Engine" yellow light is not static and now continually flashes with the "Security" red light going off/coming back on or staying off. Also, now sometimes the Trike's engine will crank (turn over) but not start. However, most of the time, the Trike's engine won't make a sound or attempt to crank (turn over). For those of you who are "TECH" minded, do you think these progressive fault error codes are the result of a bad BCM, ECM, or some other electronic part?

Also, thinking there might be a newly developed "glitch" in a Vance and Hines FP3 Map I initially downloaded and have been successfully using for the past three (3) to four (4) years, I re-downloaded the saved MAP again. Do you think the recent ECM remapping might be causing the fault codes?

Please forgive this post for being a little "long winded" However, I am now thinking about taking my Trike to the local Harley dealership and have them determine the root cause of the fault codes. In the past, when experiencing an electronic issue with my Trike, it has always been a loose wire or Molex connector. However, now I am beginning to believe, the development of these electronic code(s)is more than just a loose wire or Molex connector. If you have any suggestions, checkpoints, or experienced fixes, please let me know.

Thank you,

Allen S.

[1dn5up]

One code will lead to another in a snowball effect . Suggest exploring for a group of Ground wires on one terminal as a first cause .

[rhino 2]

Have you changed the bars or grips recently..?

[Jack Klarich]

Have you done any recent work on or near the handle bars or battery?

[Jack Klarich]

Start with the battery, load test it then clean the cable ends and re tighten

Next, pull all of your fuses out, clean the spade ends and be sure to check the fit of the 50 amp main fuse, they have been known to wiggle a bit and heat up

[keikat2]

Jack,

I guess you read my "long-winded" discussion detailing the diagnostic fault codes I have been experiencing with my 2014 Tri-Glide. Recently, I thought I was having electronic idling issues with a V&H FP3 map I downloaded and have used for about the last four (4) years. Thinking it might resolve the issue, I decided to recall and download the saved OEM Harley mapping to the ECM followed by downloading/installing the same saved V&H FP3 mapping I had been using. Since that last recent V&H FP3 download, when the Trike is powered on, it has been detecting/displaying ECM, BCM, SPDO, and RADO diagnostic fault codes in the "DIAG" code review process. Additionally, when powered on, the Trike's dash "Security" red light and "Check Engine" yellow light would reappear and stay on for a time and then go off. Additionally, during this earlier time, sometimes the Trike would turn over and start and sometimes it would not even crank.

Now, with the remaining ECM codes P0120 (TPS Range Error), P0220 (TPS2 Range Error), and P02135 (TPS Correlation Error), the Trike will no longer crank or turn over. Also, when powered on, the once static "Check Engine" yellow light now continually flashes with the "Security" red light going off and coming back on. When I powered on the Trike today, I noticed the inner fairing accessory connectors' 12V power has been disabled which does not allow the Trike's audio amplifier to come on; however, the Boom Box radio does still come on.

I have spent the last four (4) days looking inside the upper fairing for loose Molex Can Bus connectors, pinched or broken wires, and the possibility of a wire coming loose or disconnected from its crimped ring terminal. Additionally, inside the upper fairing, I have gathered and "zip-tide" any loose wires making them stationary.

Now, as a result of the aforementioned on-going issues and diagnostic codes' "snow balling" affect, I am thinking I have electronic issues with the Trike's ECM, BCM, or maybe a combination of both. In turn, unless I am fortunate enough to find the root cause of all these code issues between now and next week, I will probably load the Trike onto my trailer and tow it to the local Harley Davidson dealership for their diagnostic inspection/determination. However, as you have suggested, I will access the fuse box and remove, inspect, clean, and reinsert each fuse. Recently, having removed the 50W main power fuse, the fuse's prong connectors do fit firmly inside its counterpart's powered clips. Also, the battery terminals are clean with the battery displaying a 12.6 to 12.7 static volt charge using my digital multimeter.

Jack, please let me know if have any additional suggestions or other checkpoint areas that might need inspected. Also, based on what I have detailed above, please let me know if you think I might be experiencing issues with a faulty ECM or BCM.

Thank you,

Allen S.

[rhino 2]

12.6 volts on a battery means its time to replace it...

[keikat2]

rhino 2,

First of all, thank you for your response. Using a digital multimeter, I just checked the battery's voltage, at the terminals, and it is indicating 12.7 volts. Based on what I am reading, 12.7 volts would initially indicate a good battery. How many volts do you think a "healthy" 12V motorcycle battery should maintain with the Trike not running?

Thank you,

Allen S.

[Jack Klarich]

12.7 volts is a fully charged battery, static charge no load

With the ignition on, all lights on what is your reading?

if it drops to 10 volts and continues to drop you have a bad battery

It is possible your ECM and or BCM is problematic, tho it is suspect that you are able to get the diagnostic codes to display

Electrical problems are for sure the hardest ones to chase down the causes and even harder to remotely diagnose, I will be following your progress

What I will say is most all electrical problems start with the health of the battery , bad grounds and connections to ECM, BCM, and other main components

Have you recently washed or rode in heavy rain?

[Jack Klarich]

Do you have voltage @ the starter main lug? You should read the same as @ the battery

Have you checked all fuses with a test light or voltmeter?

You can bridge the fuses to test them, do you hear your fuel pump when you turn on the ignition?

You said when you reloaded the OEM tune back with the other V& H tune disconnected the trike ran or just did not display any codes?