New Brake Shoes Locking Up 2004 Lehman Goldwing

[Ray & Paula]

It is possible after riding some miles the master cylinder is the problem, I would attempt a rebuild kit( provided 1 is available and the bore is not badly scored)

I do not see what you have done with your meticulous work as being the problem, it seems more like a fluke in the hydraulic cylinder

Thanks again Jack.... I went ahead and ordered a new MS assembly. I won't get it until the end of next week due to not finding one in stock. It was confirmed that Honda has them in stock. After you mentioning some trikes having residual check valves, I've been digging into it. I do have one that's a P.I.A. to get to located centrally above my swingarm.... Next to impossible to take apart if needed due to not being able to get two hands in the tight space. I.M.O., installer should have routed it closer to the frame for accessibility. The only Lehman part number I could come up with for the valve only has an 1/8" inlet/outlet, mine is around 3/8". Plus, similiar check valves have psi ratings. I'm sure it matters but, I have no idea of what the pressure would be on my lines. It may be hard to match up if I need to replace it, hopefully I won't. In addition, there is another junction that appears to be brass on top of the upper left side axle. I believe it's nothing more than a junction for the lines. I'll take a closer look once I get the wheels off for further brake inspection. Below is a short YT clip of the RCV and the brass junction. Thanks again and have an awesome Labor Day Weekend!! Ray

[Ray & Paula]

Wishing all of you an Awesome Labor Day Weekend!!! Ray

[Jack Klarich]

If the brass junction looks like this is a street T to connect the line from the master to the rear wheel cylinder lines

[Ray & Paula]

Like you I did everything else but. Rebuilt calipers, chased lines and replaced brakes twice. I just got fed up with it and decided what the hell I'll replace the MC. Well behold, that was the problem. I wish you the best of luck!

Yep! I'm at that point..... Very frustrating to say the least. Glad to hear that you got on top of it!! Thank you....I need all the Luck I can get...LOL.

[Ray & Paula]

If the brass junction looks like this is a street T to connect the line from the master to the rear wheel cylinder lines

Appears to be very similar.... Thanks! Ray

[Burnerboy]

Have you check'd out the master cylinder??

Goldwing has had re-calls on the master cyl...

Ronnie

9/4/23

[Ray & Paula]

Have you check'd out the master cylinder??

Goldwing has had re-calls on the master cyl...

Ronnie

9/4/23

Thanks for jumping in..... Yes, I had the recall done on 06-28-2016. I just ordered a complete new rear brake MC on Friday. Suppose to be here by the end of the week. Thanks. Ray🤞

[Ray & Paula]

OK...... I'm back. I had to play catch up on other things...LOL! I do have my new rear brake MC and plan on replacing the old one over the weekend. Other than my Honda shop manual, I've been looking for the best procedure to move forward. Shop manual want's you to drain all the brake fluid from the entire hydraulic system with a commercial brake bleeder. This is something I don't have, or have ever done. I've alway's bled my brakes using the manual procedure. One thing for sure is that all the fluid in my hydraulic system is fresh. With that being said, and Please correct me if I'm wrong, I can skip this part.

In regards to the Secondary MC, this was replaced along with the rear brake MC back during the recall. I've never bled the SMC by removing the banjo bolts.... Never saw or heard that it was necessary for the bleeding process therefore, I've never touched it. Same goes for the rear brake MC.

My plan moving forward is to remove the fluid out of my rear brake MC cup and replace the rear MC. As far as I know, the new rear brake MC doesn't need to be taken apart and pre-lubricated. Once installed, I'll followup by going through the manual brake bleeding procedure steps. Having speed bleeder's helps with this procedure but, I will have my wife at the pedal in order for me to visually inspect for air in the line as I proceed as before. I'd like to add, I'm debating about bleeding the front hand brakes as well but, it shouldn't be necessary since I've done it a couple times during this entire ordeal.

If anyone here has anything to add, suggest or feel that I need to proceed differently, PLEASE do so. I sincerely value and appreciate your help! Thanks. Ray

[Jack Klarich]

You have a sound plan IMO

You have already bled the rear brakes several times so there should be plenty of new fluid already in the lines and rear wheel cylinders, I think just bench bleed the new rear master, install it and bleed @ the rear wheel cylinders and ride it

Remember to tell your wife slow pumps of the pedal , no more than 1/2 strokes when bleeding the brakes

[Ray & Paula]

You have a sound plan IMO

You have already bled the rear brakes several times so there should be plenty of new fluid already in the lines and rear wheel cylinders, I think just bench bleed the new rear master, install it and bleed @ the rear wheel cylinders and ride it

Remember to tell your wife slow pumps of the pedal , no more than 1/2 strokes when bleeding the brakes

Thank You Jack.... I'll be sure she goes slow with the pedal. Before, I went full slow strokes on the pedal but, I'll go ahead and go with 1/2 as as you stated. Also, even though I'm using speed bleeders, I had her push/hold the pedal down on the final stroke before tightening each bleeder last time. As always, Thank You for your help! Appreciate it!! Ray