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Thread: Missing Bolt From Front Intake Manifold?

  1. #1
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    Default Missing Bolt From Front Intake Manifold?

    This is about my '23 Freewheeler. Took a 40 mile ride to lunch today. Nothing special, not too hot, no traffic jams. Most of the ride was 55mph and above. Was idling at a traffic light briefly when the exhaust sound changed. Not sure how to describe it. Not a repetitive bang, but that's the closest I can come up with. A slight rev of the motor and it stopped. Nothing unusual while riding. Did it again on the way home and in my garage when I got home. I let it do it for a bit while I checked things. The motor seemed to be vibrating more than usual so I started checking bolts. Nothing loose. While looking around I found a bolt hole on the front manifold mount with no bolt in it. The back head has a bolt in place, but no washer. Can this be causing me a problem?

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    Cant tell from that angle

    First thing I would do is scan for any DTC
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Her is an exploded view of the intake

    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    JT, I just looked at mine, you are missing the front lower intake bolt

    # 1 in the diagram
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    JT, I just looked at mine, you are missing the front lower intake bolt # 1 in the diagram
    Had a bolt just like that from my Shovelhead that went right in. Pain in the rear to get to it, but it's in and tight. Going to take it out and listen up for this idling irregularity.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JTJersey View Post
    Had a bolt just like that from my Shovelhead that went right in. Pain in the rear to get to it, but it's in and tight. Going to take it out and listen up for this idling irregularity.
    Saving Trouble head parts is a plus, good luck and check for codes, I would be surprised if you do not have a lean DTC
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    Saving Trouble head parts is a plus, good luck and check for codes, I would be surprised if you do not have a lean DTC
    Couldn't find any codes. I'll check again when I get back from my test ride. Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    Saving Trouble head parts is a plus, good luck and check for codes, I would be surprised if you do not have a lean DTC
    If it comes loose again……..Use…268 red stick loctite and it ain’t coming off again…I used it for my tie link bolts on the front cylinder head (2011 Triglide)…
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    If it comes loose again……..Use…268 red stick loctite and it ain’t coming off again…I used it for my tie link bolts on the front cylinder head (2011 Triglide)…
    Blue loctite would be a better choice IMO, less chance of pulling the threads out of the heads if you have to remove/ replace the intake manifold
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Just got back from a 30 mile ride. Had the same problem. When idling at a stop light or stop street it starts making a chugging noise and there's more vibration, almost like the rear cylinder wants to cut out. I don't know if it means anything, but I get noticeably more exhaust coming from the right pipe than the left when it's doing this chugging at idle. No codes anywhere and the plugs don't have but a thousand miles on them from last time I pulled them. And my warranty expires today. Go figure. Thank you Harley.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    Blue loctite would be a better choice IMO, less chance of pulling the threads out of the heads if you have to remove/ replace the intake manifold
    I’m guessing those threads are a little beat up from rattling off (That was my experience)And if the new bolt does come loose again 268 red will keep the tight…And if? He has to remove it in the future…He’ll Just cross that bridge when he gets to it..
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    I’m guessing those threads are a little beat up from rattling off (That was my experience)And if the new bolt does come loose again 268 red will keep the tight…And if? He has to remove it in the future…He’ll Just cross that bridge when he gets to it..
    I'm not sure there ever was a bolt in there. The manifold bracket didn't have any marks on it like a bolt had been torqued down on it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JTJersey View Post
    I'm not sure there ever was a bolt in there. The manifold bracket didn't have any marks on it like a bolt had been torqued down on it.
    So is it running OK now?
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Quote Originally Posted by JTJersey View Post
    I'm not sure there ever was a bolt in there. The manifold bracket didn't have any marks on it like a bolt had been torqued down on it.
    Maybe it’s an Harley speed hole..😉-😉….?
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by JTJersey View Post
    Just got back from a 30 mile ride. Had the same problem. When idling at a stop light or stop street it starts making a chugging noise and there's more vibration, almost like the rear cylinder wants to cut out. I don't know if it means anything, but I get noticeably more exhaust coming from the right pipe than the left when it's doing this chugging at idle. No codes anywhere and the plugs don't have but a thousand miles on them from last time I pulled them. And my warranty expires today. Go figure. Thank you Harley.
    Did the hot idle mode (I forget the Harley name for it) get turned on somehow? It cuts the fuel to one cylinder at idle (I believe the rear), so that it only pumps air. Supposed to help keep the motor cooler.......

    On my former 2018 Tri-Glide, when it was enabled and sitting still at idle, it kinda sounded/felt like what you described....

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTJersey View Post
    Just got back from a 30 mile ride. Had the same problem. When idling at a stop light or stop street it starts making a chugging noise and there's more vibration, almost like the rear cylinder wants to cut out. I don't know if it means anything, but I get noticeably more exhaust coming from the right pipe than the left when it's doing this chugging at idle. No codes anywhere and the plugs don't have but a thousand miles on them from last time I pulled them. And my warranty expires today. Go figure. Thank you Harley.
    I hate to say this but this is sounding like a blown rear head gasket

    Strange for sure, I would surely expect to see fouled plugs and trouble codes
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    I hate to say this but this is sounding like a blown rear head gasket

    Strange for sure, I would surely expect to see fouled plugs and trouble codes
    Sounds to me like the engine, idle temperature management system..(EITMS)….It shuts off the rear cylinder at an idle to keep the engine cool..And it is normal in the summer..
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Klarich View Post
    I hate to say this but this is sounding like a blown rear head gasket

    Strange for sure, I would surely expect to see fouled plugs and trouble codes
    It’s the EITMS…Rear cylinder shut off and it’s normal in the summer ..
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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  19. #19
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    JT turn off the EITMS and try this

    1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and push the engine OFF/RUN switch on the right handlebar to the RUN position (do not start the motorcycle).
    2. Push the throttle to roll*off position and hold.
    3. See Instrument Lamps. After approximately 3 seconds, the cruise indicator lamp will either flash green (EITMS enabled) or red (EITMS disabled).
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    It’s the EITMS…Rear cylinder shut off and it’s normal in the summer ..
    Could be if it is enabled
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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