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Thread: Weight distribution on a Viper trike

  1. #1
    350+ Posts pwhoever's Avatar
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    Default Weight distribution on a Viper trike

    I just recently picked up a 7x16 v-nose cargo trailer with dual axles. I am fully aware that getting proper tongue weight is very important to prevent unwanted swaying. I'm also kicking around the idea of ditching my Wildwood FSX 190RT toy hauler and building this one into a Cargo Trailer Conversion toyhauler camper but not completely sold on that just yet.

    But... I know that the CSC Viper weighs in around 1200lbs give or take. I want to try and get as much of the weight over the axles to help with tongue weight. So does anyone know how much weight there is on front wheel as opposed to rear wheels? My assumption is that the majority of the weight is probably on the rear wheels. If that is the case, it might make more sense to back the trike into this cargo trailer instead of driving straight in. Maybe I'm overthinking this but would appreciate any thoughts on this.

    I haven't weighed the tongue weight with an empty trailer and I know that will be important. I do have a specific scale to use and will probably do that soon...

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    I have a 6.5 x 14 single axle utility.I didn't think that far ahead before heading to Conroe to pick it up so it had to go all the way to the front but it did ok.No problems with sway.I'm about to haul it to Maggie Valley next week and have it set about 2ft back this time.I'll see if it pulls easier.At least I won't be on the interstate this time.The little 4.8 runs out of air after 65 pulling the trailer with the trike on it.I would say try it with the rear wheels on the trike either between the trailer axles or over the front axle.Also different trailer manufacturers set the axles differently.What works for one wont neccesarily work on another.
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    Ok, I will give that a try. On my toyhauler, I have quite a bit of weight up front especially if I travel with the freshwater tank full or mostly full along with filled propane tanks, luggage, etc... When I do that, I park the trike just inside the rear ramp and it offsets the weight just about right. But right now, there really isn't anything to add extra weight in the front of this cargo trailer which I guess could be a good thing. I guess what I really need to do is get the actual tongue weight empty and then calculate just under 15% of total weight on the tongue and move trike around until I get that.

    But if I end up doing the camper conversion, I don't want to put the trike too far forward anyway as I will need access to however I set up the floorplan to use. I will probably have cabinets, a fridge, maybe a sink and fresh water tank, maybe a bed, etc...

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    And just wanted to add, I didn't go out looking for a 16' trailer. I would have been happier with a 12' or better, a 14' like you. But came across a really good deal and didn't want to pass it up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pwhoever View Post
    And just wanted to add, I didn't go out looking for a 16' trailer. I would have been happier with a 12' or better, a 14' like you. But came across a really good deal and didn't want to pass it up.
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwhoever View Post
    Ok, I will give that a try. On my toyhauler, I have quite a bit of weight up front especially if I travel with the freshwater tank full or mostly full along with filled propane tanks, luggage, etc... When I do that, I park the trike just inside the rear ramp and it offsets the weight just about right. But right now, there really isn't anything to add extra weight in the front of this cargo trailer which I guess could be a good thing. I guess what I really need to do is get the actual tongue weight empty and then calculate just under 15% of total weight on the tongue and move trike around until I get that.

    But if I end up doing the camper conversion, I don't want to put the trike too far forward anyway as I will need access to however I set up the floorplan to use. I will probably have cabinets, a fridge, maybe a sink and fresh water tank, maybe a bed, etc...
    Be sure to take pics of the finished product. It would be interesting to see how all those amenities plus trike will fit into a 16' trailer.

    Neighbor here just tried the same thing and decided the 20x7' trailer is much more do-able. They are expecting to sell their 40' toyhauler and just go for less involved trips in the converted 20x7' trailer, instead of living in it full-time as they are doing now in the 40'.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by paws View Post
    Be sure to take pics of the finished product. It would be interesting to see how all those amenities plus trike will fit into a 16' trailer.

    Neighbor here just tried the same thing and decided the 20x7' trailer is much more do-able. They are expecting to sell their 40' toyhauler and just go for less involved trips in the converted 20x7' trailer, instead of living in it full-time as they are doing now in the 40'.
    From what I have found in my research, this will take some time to accomplish. I came across this site and found that these cargo conversions are actually pretty popular now. And this particular site has a ton of information:

    https://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=42

    I'm guessing that I will put most of the convenience stuff towards the front and sides. The Viper is just under 10 feet and the cargo trailer is actually about 18 feet including the Vnose. I did a practice load before buying and it was tight but a guestimate was that I easily had about 9" on either side from floorboards and rear wheel wells. Some have put a happyjack style bed that raises up to ceiling in rear for loading and unloading. I don't know if that would be a good solution for me though. While traveling with my regular toy hauler, I will sometimes stop at a Walmart parking lot to grab some shut-eye for the night and not sure that this would work. The bed in my toyhauler and bathroom are all up front so the loaded trike doesn't matter. I do have 2 portable camping cots and guess that could do in cargo trailer until arriving at destination and unload the trike.

    Most of my traveling though is done actually riding the trike. But the times when I bring my young son along, it would be too much for him and the toy hauler was the best solution. When alone, I'd just rather have the flexibility of just riding from spot to next destination without having to return back to the start, loading up, and then heading out. The toyhauler is really nice and I've enjoyed traveling with it but it hasn't been without its issues. It has a lot of features that I consider not necessary and could easily do without.

    One huge issue is the ramp on the actual toyhauler. It's not long enough and rather steep. I did find a workable solution but it includes having to setup 3 jack stands and drag along extra ramps. This cargo trailer sits much closer to ground and I can very easily pull in and out without needing anything extra.

    My toyhauler is a 2021 and fully paid for. I should be easily able to sell it for close to what I paid and then use the proceeds to nicely finish the cargo trailer as well as what I paid for it and still have some money left over. And the cargo trailer would probably be more useful as it could also be easily used for moving stuff as well.

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    I was jacking my trike today and the center of the weight seems to be where the center stand was hinged.My step dad has a cargo trailer he and mom converted years ago.It is a simple deal with fold down beds and storage in the front.I don't remember about frig. or not but it does have A/C.They were into offroading at the time and had a 4 wheeler.Hasn't been used much since they got into Harleys.I think its 16ft
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  9. #9
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    I'm going to keep it fairly simple and just want it comfortable. I would like some cabinets, some kind of fridge, definitely AC, and maybe a couple windows and an awning on the side. I plan on insulating the walls and ceiling. A bathroom and shower would be nice but many places I have stayed have public showers and I could probably just go with a mini portable toilet which would be easier.

    But trying to decide on a floorplan and my head is spinning. And then there's the floor. Many talk about insulating underneath in between the supports. But I saw one guy who built a false floor and insulated that and I think it only raised floor height by about 2". But not sure how well that would hold up with a trike in it. I think I would like to use a rubber floor mat and then e-track rails. I have 4 8 foot sections ready to go. It came with e-track along the full length of the side walls but about halfway up and that won't work for tying down the trike. I have to decide if I want to mount them along the bottom of the walls but that depends on what I attach to the walls. Or I could run them along the floor right next to the wall but should get the floor squared away first. Or still on floor but about 6-12" off the wall. It just a single section right up the middle but again would have to wait on the flooring first.

    And then with windows, I have to decide how many, what sizes, and where to place them. The choices are infinite and windows and flooring are only part of the process. So right now, my head is swimming because I want to do it right the first time instead of doing it over, and over again. And even though I have gone through many of the threads on that forum I linked to above, there have been so many variations on floorplans as well as how basic or extravagant folks have gotten on their builds. Choices, choices. At least I'm not in a hurry and have time to make some final plans. Once I figure out windows and do the insulation, it will be time to buckle down and make the final plans.

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