Stallion Parts & Maintenance Reference

[Gorilla]

It appears the minimum height on the lift you found is 3 9/16 in. I have a 2008and jack I bought has min 3.5 in height and it is too tall for my Stallion. Be sure to check this out befpre you buy

Good catch. The Stallion is low

[pmar6004]

It appears the minimum height on the lift you found is 3 9/16 in. I have a 2008and jack I bought has min 3.5 in height and it is too tall for my Stallion. Be sure to check this out befpre you buy

GWRRA 164

I did not realize that the Stallion has such low ground clearance. < 3.5", now that's low. May have to consider backing it on a pair of shallow ramps first to raise its backend before placing the lift in position. I suppose it's wishful thinking to believe that the 2011 models will have a higher ground clearance than the earlier models. Thanks for your input...

Daydreamer

[silverdevil]

the ground clearance is just a little better than 3.5", it is 4.5" plus you can air up the rear suspension and raise it a little more, you have no problem to air it up to 100 lbs, don't ride it there but you can air it up to there.
I have seen them raise a Stallion up with a large pallet jack at TBMS, I have seen Kevin the lead mech do it.
you can get ramps at wal-mart and they are easy to back up on, I have 2 sets of ramps and after backing up on one set I jack up the front end and put another ramp under the front wheel. now no problem changing oil and filter using a creeper.

[pmar6004]

the ground clearance is just a little better than 3.5", it is 4.5" plus you can air up the rear suspension and raise it a little more, you have no problem to air it up to 100 lbs, don't ride it there but you can air it up to there.
I have seen them raise a Stallion up with a large pallet jack at TBMS, I have seen Kevin the lead mech do it.
you can get ramps at wal-mart and they are easy to back up on, I have 2 sets of ramps and after backing up on one set I jack up the front end and put another ramp under the front wheel. now no problem changing oil and filter using a creeper.

Silverdevil,

Thanks for your input. Maybe it won't be necessary to use ramps with this lift. I surely hope so... I see that you use ramps exclusively to service your Stallion. I'm not sure if I'll buy the lift... Just something to occupy my mind while I'm waiting for my Stallion to arrive. I have a similar lift that I used to service my Gold Wing. It's a Craftsman and it sure made the servicing alot easier. I like the idea of the lifts over the ramps, as it just makes the job easier, especially servicing the tires or wheels.

Daydreamer

[silverdevil]

a jack on either side of the hitch will raise up the rear end to get the rear tires off, same as a car.
the front wheel is a bit different, I did a write up on this site as to how to take the tire off and what tools to use, some are metric and some are inches. it is in this thread and message #68.

[WildBillH]

It looks like a pallet jack. Would you be able to get it high enough to do anything?

[silverdevil]

one listed above is an ATV lift that will go about 28"+ and cost less than $300 http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ssearch=176373
this one is a pallet jack and will go about 7" higher than the ATV lift (High Lifting Hydraulic Pallet Truck — 2000&#45;Lb. Capacity | High Lift Pallet Trucks | Northern Tool + Equipment) will raise 2000lbs just over 35".
this one is less than $600.
now of course the legs will be in the way for some things.
so far with a floor jack, jack stands and ramps I have been able to do everything I need to do but it would be nice to get it more than 1' off the ground sometimes which is about what I get with what I have.

[pmar6004]

It looks like a pallet jack. Would you be able to get it high enough to do anything?

Bill,

As Silverdevil stated, it's an ATV lift vs a pallet lift, although it sort of looks like a pallet lift. Although it's rated the same as the pallet lift mentioned, it appears to be much more sturdy at the arms as well as the base. For the price, (1/2 the price of the mentioned pallet lift), the choice to me is rather clear which one I'd choose. The fact that it's max. lift range is about 6"-7" shorter, is not all that important. One still can lie on a creeper to do much of the undercarriage work and the use of a small stool to work on the wheels, brakes, etc.
If nothing hangs lower than the Stallion's frame, i.e. the exhausted system for instance, than one should be able to use the lift without wooded blocks. The other concern was the ground clearance of the Stallion, but if it's higher than 3 1/2+", then it should work.

As I mentioned ramps and support jacks will do the trick as well. Having a functional lift such as the ATV Lift, just makes the job a bit easier, IMHO.


Daydreamer

[WildBillH]

The link give a better image of it and see how it works. It is rated at 2000 lbs. The Stallion weight is 1736lbs Curb weight and GVWR at 2400 IMHO if planning to lift the whole thing up... too close for comfort to maxing the lift out unless using jack stands and pulling the lift out. Rate it at 2500 lbs and I’d consider it.

If your only lifting one end or the other it might work.

Personally I drive the front wheel up on a ramp and use two scissor jacks in the back to get it up on jack stands. Extra scissor jack was 5$ at Pick and Pull.

The first time I tried this the front wheel just pushed the ramp on the cement floor. That was funny... I put a rubber matt under the ramp to keep it from sliding.

[silverdevil]

I measured the distance from the outside behind the step pad to the frame on the other side and the distance is 43 inches.
the arms or forks on the ATV lift if I read the specs correct is 28 1/2" so it is way to short.
the arms or forks on the pallet jack listed above is 44 7/8" long so it will work.
I did watch Kevin, the lead mech at TBMS lift my Stallion with a pallet jack so he could pull the front wheel assy to change the sealed bearings where one was no longer sealed. this was a regular hand operated pallet jack that may lift maybe 6"
to me this means that the ATV jack at $300 will not work and
the pallet jack for $570 plus shipping will work. I have a northern tool store about 30 miles from here so they MAY order one with no rush and save me the shipping cost, don't know for sure.

there is another lift that will lift 3000 lbs to a height of just over 31" with 43" long forks for $970 Vestil Tote Lifter — Hand Pump, 3,000&#45;Lb. Capacity, Model&#35; L&#45;270&#45;HD | High Lift Pallet Trucks | Northern Tool + Equipment

[pmar6004]

I measured the distance from the outside behind the step pad to the frame on the other side and the distance is 43 inches.
the arms or forks on the ATV lift if I read the specs correct is 28 1/2" so it is way to short.
the arms or forks on the pallet jack listed above is 44 7/8" long so it will work.
I did watch Kevin, the lead mech at TBMS lift my Stallion with a pallet jack so he could pull the front wheel assy to change the sealed bearings where one was no longer sealed. this was a regular hand operated pallet jack that may lift maybe 6"
to me this means that the ATV jack at $300 will not work and
the pallet jack for $570 plus shipping will work. I have a northern tool store about 30 miles from here so they MAY order one with no rush and save me the shipping cost, don't know for sure.

there is another lift that will lift 3000 lbs to a height of just over 31" with 43" long forks for $970 Vestil Tote Lifter — Hand Pump, 3,000&#45;Lb. Capacity, Model&#35; L&#45;270&#45;HD | High Lift Pallet Trucks | Northern Tool + Equipment

Silverdevil,

Thanks for your input and checking out the specs. on your Stallion. Yes, you're probably correct. The ATV lift will not work on the Stallion without some modification to its design, (i.e. longer forks). This thread started as an idea to find a rather inexpensive tool to make the servicing of the Stallion a bit easier. To that end, I think I was successful. Thanks again for your input.

Daydreamer

[oilslick]

syntec oil 10,000 mi. Dont do it . Change your oil like Ford recommends every 5k. or 4k if you do a lot of local driving. Change the oil filter everytime you change oil. These 2007 2.3 leter ford range engines will last 4 ever if you keep the oil changed, if not you will screw up the timing chains with sluge. Happy riding
Oilslick

[Mattel]

syntec oil 10,000 mi. Dont do it . Change your oil like Ford recommends every 5k. or 4k if you do a lot of local driving. Change the oil filter everytime you change oil. These 2007 2.3 leter ford range engines will last 4 ever if you keep the oil changed, if not you will screw up the timing chains with sluge. Happy riding
Oilslick

+1 on Changing the Oil.....

I use the plastic ramps and back onto it. If I need to lift up the front, I use a floor jack on the front of the frame. We have some nice pictures on this, and i think it is on one of the threads in the first few posts:

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/stall...ference-4.html

[ephogg]

has anyone had a problem with ignition switch getting loose?? ours is a 2007 and other than having a headlite fall out, this is the only problem we have had. i'm not home to check out the problem rite now but looking for fixes i might check out when i do get home.

[ulflyer]

Oilslick: I thought every modern auto motor made can use synthetic oil but you say not to use it? Or did I misunderstand? Realize that if you're going to change at 3,4, or 5K its not cost effective and also that todays dino oil is better than ever.

[Gorilla]

ulflyer welcome aboard. Oilslick is saying not to go 10k between oil changes not no to Synthetic oil.

[tomg]

When they first came out with Mobil 1 back around '75 for general use, they used a brand new Continental for testing. They changed the filer every 10k, added a quart and pulled an oil sample for testing. This was done every 10k until the vehicle reached 100k (with NO complete oil changes), when the motor was completely broked down and every part met the new part requirement !!!! To each their own on how many miles they go between oil changes, but I have used Mobil 1 since the 70's and use the vehicle owners book for a guide---7500 for my Suv and 5000 for my Stallion.

Tomg

[stallion]

I changed my Oil this weekend and it went well. I have heard that it is tough to get off the oil filter for the first time, so I used a Cup style oil filter wrench. The tip that i learned related to using the filter wrench. With the cup style wrench if you do not get it to seat all the way it will just slip. I used a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Once I did that, it was a snap to get the oil filter off. Then you need a vice and a flat head screw driver to hammer the wrwnch off the old oil filter.

I used a 13mm socket to get the oil plug out.

My Stallion only took about 4 quarts of synthetic oil.

The most difficult thing was to get my Stallion up high enough to change the oil. Big Dog suggested using bricks under the rear tires. I stacked several bricks 4 bricks high and used plywood. I had to use a car jack to get the frame high enough to use a floor jack.

One other thing I noticed was the oil filter I took off my Stallion was longer than the stock Ford filter.

Over all it went well. I think the next time will go smoother now I know how to do it.

I change my oil at a jiffy lube. They use the required ford oil, filter,

check, brake fluid, radiator fluid. and every thing else that is done with a regular oil change. The cost is less than 40 dollars

[Backdraft]

If I am correct, Jiffy Lube uses bulk oil which is thinner than canned or bottled oil.

If you know different please advise.

Thanks

[Doc7402]

Has anyone had trouble with a Radiater leak and AC line it looks like mine are rubbing together on the top right side as it bends up and over the top i'm losing fluid from both ac will not hold a charge and I top off the coolent after a couple of rides very small amount but the AC is the big thing here in Fl.