After taking up "Trike Riding Gold Wing 1800s" a little over a year ago, and many thousands of miles later, I think it's time to post some "opinions"..."opinions" are solely mine, and not intended to reflect opinions by Anyone else. If You have differing opinions, feel VERY free to post Them in this Thread. I always enjoy reading, thinking about, and trying Other's opinions.....now, on to my comments.....<br />
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*** Gold Wing 1800 Trikes, depending on Brands (I've ridden several), come in two "flavors" of gearing: Geared higher than stock, or lower than stock. A good GPS is great for determining Your actual MPH...my Trike is running 2 MPH slower by the speedo than the GPS, my 2-wheel versions showed 2 to 3 MPH faster...hence, at 60, I'm actually doing 62, etc. on the Trike.<br />
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*** Gold Wing 1800 Trikes WILL NOT corner as fast as a Gold Wing 1800 2-wheeler, "close under some conditions, but no cigar." This does not mean that "You" can't go faster on "Your" 3-wheel version than a 2-wheel version. I've seen Trikers that can since joining this community, but, "They" were never considered really, really fast on 2-wheelers either. While on "Fast", because I get asked all the time by Trikers "How can I get to be a faster rider." My answer: Learn to be a smoother rider...faster will automatically come if You attain "smooth"...NEVER shoot for "FAST"...!!!<br />
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*** Fork Braces do make Gold Wing 1800 Trikes turn quicker, slightly easier, and track better.<br />
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*** Fork Braces on Gold Wing 1800 Trikes do give a "slightly harsher" ride over small bumps in corners while having the Fork cut.<br />
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*** Progressive Springs do make a Gold Wing 1800 Trike steer quicker, easier, and have quicker rebound after hitting a large bump, at the "slight expense" of a "slightly" stiffer over-all ride quality.<br />
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*** On a Gold Wing 1800 Trike that has all of it's other issues fixed/adjusted such as head bearings, etc., and it has a lot of Handlebar shake when dropping onto/off of curbing, etc. needs more air in the rear air shocks/bags if applicable, or a stiffer coil-over setting.<br />
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*** Raked Trees help Gold Wing 1800 Trikes steer much quicker, accurately, and with much, much less effort than Stock Trees.
4.5 Degrees seems to be optimum for the wanted gains, and not acquire the dreaded high speed drifting on long straights....I have ridden and own 4.5s, and ridden 5, 6, and 6.5 versions. If you think You don't need Raked Trees (Stockers are fine), come by, and I'll take you to some local Roads that will change Your mind in approximately 4 curves, and leave You wondering where the raked 'Wings went.<br />
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*** Handlebar Risers on Gold Wing 1800 Trikes that get Your forearms into a straighter, "pushing" form will help You steer with less effort. I have always been totally comfy with the stock rise of the 'Wings, but noticed one day, that with the slightly downward reach to the Bars, I was "semi-twisting" them while turning the Trike. I used Risers to get my forearms more straight inline with the Bars....Steering Effort is probably another 20% easier.<br />
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*** On Gold Wing 1800 Trikes, use as little air pressure in the rear tires as feels comfortable to You...17 to 22 seems optimum. This aids in Bump absorption, Side bite during quick cornering, and better rain, gravel, slick road traction.<br />
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*** Front Tire pressure is the opposite, use as much as You are comfortable with without exceeding the Tire Manufacurer's recommended max by over 4 lbs. I used to run 39-40, but now run 42.<br />
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*** On Gold Wing 1800 Trikes use as much air in the rear shocks as You're comfortable with, without reaching the point of "vague feel" or loss of side bite in corners. Too much side roll in corners is Your enemy when on very twisty roads.<br />
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*** On Gold Wing 1800 Trikes, 3000 to 4500 RPM is where Your engine makes nice, even torque, has good engine braking, and good throttle response. Below this is called "Lugging"...above this is called "Rowdy Fun". 5th Gear is totally useless until You are cruising for distances at 65 MPH or more...use 4th. 4th and 5th are TOTALLY useless in tight twisties, short sweepers, or on twisty mountain grades.<br />
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*** Some "RIDING TIPS".....Look as far through each curve as possible...the Trike will track where You are looking, and you will get less of the "feels like I'm leaning the wrong way" effect.
.....Move to the outside of each curve (white line on lefties, yellow line on righties) to take a peek into the up-coming curve, and assure that all is clear before going in...stay as wide as possible through the curve to allow the missing of debris, critters, etc. in case You hafta' change Your line. .....Stay inside Your Lane...practice this. Never cut corners across painted lines...You will NEVER be a really skilled Rider until You can master cornering quickly, efficiently while keeping all of Your 3 wheels in the correct Lane. .....Learn to ride twisties without braking, roll on the throttle, off the throttle smoothly, never use abrupt, choppy movements. Smooth, fast riders can easily negotiate most any corner at double the posted speed without the use of brakes. If You're using drag-braking, you should be approaching triple the posted speed entering a corner. If you're not going that fast, but still braking, work on Your techniques, and/or use a lower gear. .....Rear Brakes are not needed when riding twisties...if You need some "slight braking", learn to use a gentle two-finger quick touch on the Front brake lever. I never use my rear brakes unless coming to a full stop, or an emergency full-panic brake/stop situation such as an animal, or "Mr./Mrs. Automobile Public" coming into my lane.<br />
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I hope these "opinions" are helpful to a lot of You.
Now this Thread is open to good, concise, non-flame "other opinions"....THANKS, and SAFE TRIKING, skuuter.....<img src="images/smilies/thumbup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" class="inlineimg" /> :Biker: