Air in Brakes/power bleeding

[Teal]

Looks like dealers just try to avoid using effective brake bleeding, especially power bleeding. Kit dealers are saying that is the only way to totally get air out.
Does anyone have suggestions on what brand, what adapter for GW's to use. MityVac doesnt flow enough fluid.

thanks

[Gold Rush]

I've always hear the exact opposite regarding the vac bleeders. Over the years I've read several accounts of guys trying to use them and ended up going back to the old way. I have to admit I did and now me Mity Vac sets in the drawer. I use it one in a while to drain a reservoir that that's it...

I think the problem with GL1800s is the complexity of that braking system. If you don't start and the beginning of the procedure and go by the book it just doesn't seem to do a good job.

I had my '06 converted a few months ago and it's not 100% but it's pretty good so I haven't messed with it. I think it will be part of my winter tune up this year....

[Teal]

champion says the MityVac will not do it.. ive tried it and it didnt

one of the problem (using the MV)i had was the bleed valve itself -when loosened sucks air around the threads and it hard to tape that off,, but i ready to try more Teflon tape on it. where as a power bleeder has more volume over a shorter period of time--problem is getting adapters for the master cylinder to seal.

[rodeo1]

this is an old race car trick. pull the handbrake lever, or foot lever and tie it that way. leave it overnight. the air will slowly run up the line into the res. release it and try the brake.

[dirtdobber]

The top of the res. must be off in order for it to work. Then if air is trapped in any of the banjo fittings you will still have air. The banjo fittings is where it gets stuck or trapped anyway.
Most trikes do not have the link brake , it is removed for safety reasons.
I know the CSC is
I have had good success with a MV. Some of the fittings is temperamental though.
Or you can use the old trick using a bottle with fluid in it. If it is stubborn that is what I use.
just a thought

[Papa Zook]

Ive tried the vac systems and went back to the old way. Here's the method Ive found to consistently work.

1) Yes, always remove the reservoir cap and keep an eye on the fluid as you bleed, adding fluid as you go. (make sure you add the correct fluid, DOT 3/4 or Dot 5) This is a two person job, one to pump and hold down the pedal and one to bleed and re-tighten the bleeder before the pedal is released.
2) Bleed the left rear wheel first, (furthest from the master cylinder) making sure you start with the top or uppermost bleeder valve, in fact bleeding that bleeder valve alone will almost always get the air out as air bubbles always rise.
3) Next bleed the front wheel, if you have linked brakes.
4) Bleed the right rear wheel, again upper bleeder first.
5) Definitely DO pump up the brakes until firm and place a heavy weighted object on, or hanging from the rear brake pedal and pump and tie wrap the front brake handle and let sit over night. Try it, it really does work.
6) Finally..if your installer did not do so, I recommend removing the rear brake pedal from your trike and moving it up one notch on the splines in order to have a longer stroke on the rear master cyl, thus applying more fluid pressure to the rear brakes.
7) If all of the above fail, call me and I'll send you a inline residual pressure valve.

[jfingalls]

Hi cobradb, let me suggest another approach to bleeding your brakes and clutch. They are called Speed Bleeders (speedbleeder@earthlink.net) and they make the job simple. For $7. each you can replace your bleeders with the SpeedBleeders and brake bleeding becomes a one man job(make sure that you keep the reservior filled during the bleed, however). Plus, you can order an additional item which is a bag and little hose to captured all fluids expelled during the bleed/change process for $6 and it is reusable. The total kit cost me $32.95 including shipping and changing brake fluid is a snap now. Also, you may want to look into Dot-5 fluid instead of using the Dot-4 that is recommended by the manufacturers -- the Dot-5 will not absorb moisture which is the primary reason you have to change the fluid to begin with. Dot-5 performs a well as the Dot-4. Good Luck....

[Papa Zook]

Also, you may want to look into Dot-5 fluid instead of using the Dot-4 that is recommended by the manufacturers -- the Dot-5 will not absorb moisture which is the primary reason you have to change the fluid to begin with. Dot-5 performs a well as the Dot-4. Good Luck....

Apologies jfingalls, not trying to be a know it all, but Im told DO NOT use the full silicone based Dot 5 fluid in Dot 3 & 4 brake systems. Using DOT 5 in a DOT 3 or 4 system without proper flushing completely with alcohol and dis-assembly of all components, cleaning, drying, etc, will cause damage to the seals, swelling them and cause brake failure and/or lockup. Ive read this warning several times in the past and it even popped up just now on Wiki when I Googled looking for an article link. I also added a link to a good thread on V-Twin Forums about this.

Dot 5


V-Twin Forums Link

[jfingalls]

Hi Zook, you are correct and fortunately I have not changed my fluid over yet. The information that I have is consistent with what you provided. I guess the key is making sure that you properly flush out the system or damage can happen. I think we should all take your advice, however, and stay away from the risk. Thanks..

[Teal]

Thanks Guys, Champion uses this as u may kn.. front- the loop over the finder to feed the LF caliper,, great place on top for air to hide

on rear- the line is feed from the top with the equalizer (i think its there),, so another good place for air to hide unless the volume is high
I will try your above recommendations
db

[paulmac1]

I just finished my roadsmith conversion and i still have some air in the system so i will try the pedal down and open master cylinder. ii will post my results.

[paulmac1]

8 hours later
i just checked my brakes and the results are great, i now have a full pedal and no air in the system, thanks for the info.

[Teal]

thus far nothing above has got the left rear going,,

champion told me; should be able to lock both rears at 40 mph; if not there is air still in the system.
my bleed valves look like the speed bleeders i saw on line.